Flex bits have a hole in the drill head to attach string for pulling in as the bit is removed.

I forgot to mention that the TV will be much higher up on the wall than the existing receptacle. Once I drill thru the studs into the bay that the existing receptacle is in, I have to go down 3-4 feet to the top of the existing box.

You need to pull out the existing box to do this. If you are going through 2 studs and each outlet is next to one, you might just use a regular drill and drill through using the exiting outlet hole and the new hole. stick a fish tape through each hole and try to catch it. I do not care for flex bits as you never know where they might shoot out or what other wiring or plumbing it may hit on the way there. They can be handy in an old house drilling through a fire block or up through the top plate. Last week my helper tried using a brand new greenlee I bought which had 2 sections that snap together and a removable auger bit. The bit went though one stud and managed to shift into the floor joists and still came through where we needed it but then it would not pull back to retrieve the wire. After an hour of fighting it, I bashed a hole in the palm printed dinning room ceiling and assisted the wire and flex bit through. The shaft was destroyed, all bent up. This was a weird wall however, half voided out (circular stair well), so there was space behind the studs for the bit to slip to the floor joists. Just saying don't be suprised if it shoots out of the room on the other side of the wall or runs through romex wire and shorts out a few circuits.

If you are going through 3 or more studs and do manage to whip bit across. You will have to get a fish tape through the same holes somehow and let it fall down to the opening for the original box. Another trick would be to remove the baseboard and bore through down there and put nail plates over the studs where the wire passes through.

What's above? It there an open attic? If there is then go up and down instead of over and down. If there is an open ceilng basement below go down and up.

What is on the other (back) side of that wall? Quite often, it will be a closet. In those cases, open the wall surface as necessary, then patch.

Blind drilling is something we just don't do, too risky. The time it will take you to fish it plus the risk of hitting something will outweigh just cutting some plugs at the studs and patching it back up. Use a 3 or 4 inch hole saw at each stud to remove the plugs, then notch the studs with a 1.5 holesaw, pull your wire, plate it up and put the plugs back in with 20 min mud. The baseboard idea works good too, just make sure you use nail plates.

I have a few stories about flex bits, blowing out thru plaster walls, pulling them out with a twisted mess of Romex or phone wire wrapped around them, etc. My flex bits just sit in my truck now, unused.

I think flex bits are an essential tool in retrofits and if you are careful, can be used safely.

You want to quadruple check for wires and pipes using stud sensors etc, and if possible look up from below if the basement is finished.

Best of all, as mentioned, go down from the attic if you can, then fix the wire to the side of the nearest ceiling joist where it runs between the two holes, or along a rafter or similar. Usually you can't just run the wire across the joists unless there is less than 3' of clearance.

The larger flex bits come with a handle arrangement that allow you to 'put some english' on the bit (bend it) whilst you drill but wear eye protection and drill very slowly.

If you are going from above, you will want some light duty chain (not the sink drain ball stuff, it's too weak) which you drop down one hole, then fish with a short glowrod or coathanger out through the first hole downstairs, securely fix the wire to it, draw back up, then drop chain with wire attached down through second hole. If you're lucky it will be very quick, if not, not so much.

Another possibility for lv wire is to remove skirting and tuck the wire behind or cut a rebate in it, in your case you would drop your chain down the hole where the tv is, cut a hole in the drywall where it will be above the floor plate but below the skirting top (large trim is the alarm installer's friend) then at the second hole in the wall, drop the chain, cut hole at bottom, fish chain, attach wire, pull chain back up. Voilà ! (probably the most mis-spelled/mispelt work on the internet)

THanks for the replies guys.

jorfixit2, I thought it was unadvisable to notch studs due to structural issues?

When you used the inch and a half hole saw, how far do you drill in?

I go in just enough for the wire, about 1/2", then just pop out the plug with a screwdriver. It's fast and easy and not too messy.

Yes I have hole hawgs and bits, I've just found my way easier, neater & faster. Also, I like to get in and get out fast without dragging half the truck in for a small job.

I have a coffee can that I keep drywall plugs in cut on one side with a 3" hole saw up to the paper, and a 4" hole saw thru the paper. This way I have 3" plugs with 1/2" of paper all the way around. 1/4" works great and allows for the thickness of the nail plate. If you re install the plug you cut out, just peel the texture and paint off the front so it's flush.

Joe,

I like the idea of the paper overlap on the drywall plugs, I may borrow that idea.

I am confused by your method with the stud, though, do you mean you drill straight into the stud from the front?

I hadn't thought of that, potentially I could have used it in my own place but my concern is, it's kind of close to the front - do you cut out the 3" drywall plug in this instance? In that case, I guess you can use a nail guard.

What I did in my basement was cut a smallish hole in the drywall a few inches back from the stud, put the flex bit in, curve it to the next stud if I could, if not, cut another hole the same. When I came out the other end, I used the hole/wire holder in the bit to pull the cable through.

Using this drill without the auxiliary handle and with a stubby bit, the hole in the drywall can be small and the stud can be drilled through the center of the 3 1/2" face.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drill