Okay, I have a confession. I figured if they are the same color then it must not matter. (It's like a lamp cord going through the chain.) So I attached them and turned the power back on and it works. Does that mean I did it correctly?

"Okay, I have a confession. I figured if they are the same color then it must not matter. (It's like a lamp cord going through the chain.) So I attached them and turned the power back on and it works. Does that mean I did it correctly?

No, it does not mean it is wired correctly.
I the fixture uses regular Edison based bulbs (the screw in type) then the outer shell is connected to the neutral (white) wire and the button at the bottom of the light socket is connected to the hot (black) wire.

If you look carefully at the cord one side will have ridges along the jacket.
This is the neutral and should be connected to the white wire.

It should be wired such that the contact at the bottom of the socket is "hot" (connected to black wire) when the power is on. The outer part of the socket should be connected to the neutral (white) wire.
If it's wired backwards, and you change a bulb with the power on, you could get zapped if you accidentally touch the threaded part (easier to do than touching the base of the socket.
You can check this with a basic voltage tester. Remove a bulb and turn on. Check for voltage between the base of the socket and a known good ground (not neutral.) You should get ~120V. Be careful not to short the probe against the side of the socket - that would not be pleasant. Alternatively, check for zero volts between the side of the socket and a known good ground. If the side of the socket is energized, shut off power and reverse the wires.
From a functional standpoint, this is NOT a hazard, just someone could be shocked more easily while changing a bulb.

"From a functional standpoint, this is NOT a hazard, just someone could be shocked more easily while changing a bulb."

From a functional standpoint the light will operate.

From a code and safety standpoint it IS a hazard.

This is the reason that most lamps now have polarized plugs.

It ensures that the shell of the bulb socket IS the neutral and is not a shock hazard.

"If you look carefully at the cord one side will have ridges along the jacket.
This is the neutral and should be connected to the white wire. "

This is certainly true of new fixtures, but if this is a vintage chandelier, all bets are off. The only way to know for sure it to check it with a meter.

I also had this problem (sort-of) I still need to pick up a meter !!!

Here is a link that might be useful: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wiring/msg0712585531080.html

I have to say from a safety standpoint it would be better to make sure the center of the socket is energized. If for some reason it is backwards and the room gets noticeably darker when turning the switch on... I would get the issue corrected and sell the property!

Thank you Billl, that helps me out a lot. I have a new fixture with 2 black wires and I didn't know which should be "white" wire. Your tip about the ridges solves my problem.

I read this years later and will comment. The question posted said there was NO white wire yet some responses missed that most important point. Some UL approved fixtures in CURRENT lamps have 2 black wires, no white, or in this case 2 gold wires. The person who solved the problem noted a difference even if both wires are the same color. If you are replacing a fixture make sure to use the wire at the bottom of the socket piece as the hot wire. Also, sometimes there are notations on the hot wire (very small) about gauge, etc., that mark the hot wire when both hot and cold wires are the same color.

which one is hot and which one is not

which one is hot and which one is not

The one that tests 120V to ground is hot. The one that tests 0V to ground is not.

When installing "old fixtures", it would be extremely prudent to replace the old wiring - and realistically, the NEC requires alterations to premise wiring be made in compliance with up-to-date code - which requires identifying the neutral (most often, white) wire. On lamp and luminaire cords, replacing the old cord will assure a better degree of safety. All current lamp cords have identifiers between the two conductors - even when they're similar colors. I'd replace the cord and wire it to assure the switched 120V conductor powers the center of the Edison based sockets (as mentioned previously) to assure long term safety of the fixture.