My Opinion. These devices, as well as the backstabbed outlet, are listed for the purpose. As long as they are not subjected to over currents they will give years of good service. Once subjected to an over current, I believe they should be tossed. The reason is that the spring contactor is likely to have been overheated and lost its tension, thus providing a resistive connection. Since it cannot be known which one (if any) on the branch circuit is damaged they should all be replaced.

I personally would never knowingly power a high current draw device on a circuit using them.

Installing an Arc Fault Interrupter (AFCI) is a plausible alternative to replacing the connectors.

Steve

They're UL and CSA approved, but I'm from the old school and still like wire nuts with pre-twisted wires. That being said, maybe 20+ years from now we'll look back and say that either
a) those push-in connectors are the cat's a$$ and we should have been using them along time ago, or
b) those things were crap, just like aluminum wire and steel screwed devices back in the 70's
Only time will tell.

If it will help you sleep better... There are many thousands of hotel rooms in Las Vegas with those types of connectors. The labor savings seems to be very attractive to the modular/prefabricated way they do the wiring at such an intense construction speed. They have hair dryers and irons running on those circuit daily.

Thanks for the expert opinions guys.

Geniere said: "I personally would never knowingly power a high current draw device on a circuit using them."

For the time being I put 15A breakers on the new circuits and cautioned my wife about using any other appliances while the iron is on. And I also moved the space heater to a circuit that I know is wired with wire nuts. Since the consensus professional opinion here on the connectors seems to lean toward negative, I think I may replace them with wire nuts when I get the time just to be on the safe side.

Just as a data point, when push in wiring was intorduced on receptacles it accepted #14 or #12 wires.
Enough problems occured that #12 wire is no longer allowed in push in receptacles and the holes in the device are to small for the #12 to fit.
I still prefer screw clamp pressure for connections and will not allow these devices on my jobs.
The prohibition on their use is listed in the bidding documents and contracts.

I warranty my work and believe me if I felt there was an issue using these connectors I wouldn't install any. If it makes you feel any better, I use them in my own house and have some on a circuit that sees the frequent use of a high wattage heat gun used for shrink tubing.

I've used over 10,000 (probably pushing 15,000 now) of them, both the Ideals and Wagos, and haven't had any issues. I've watched these connectors take numerous zaps with fault current and show no ill effects. They are constructed with a bi-metal material that can maintain a good connection as the conductor changes temperature.

IMHO, the push in cconnectors are actually a better choice for a DIYer because they are almost foolproof. A wire nut can pose problems for unexperienced users whether they pretwist or not.

As to Brick's reference to push-in connectors on receptacles and switches, keep in mind that the connections in them were and still are a single metal type contact and not the bi-metal type present in the connector. I would suspect that with their widespread use in residential and now commercial environments that if problems were occurring we would be hearing about them. So far all I've heard is references to push-in connections on devices (receptacles and switches)being a problem and "what if?" - nothing documenting failures or problems. I've checked the operating temperature of these things with a IR temperature tester and they run cooler than wire nuts under the same load conditions - - however I'm not an official testing lab.

Should problems come to light believe me I'll not only be first in line advising against their use but also in the filing of a class action lawsuit. I don't expect to ever be doing either.

I thought I would make a huge switch over and bought a ton of ideal push-in connectors. I feel kind of funny about the connections they make though. Is it usual for the connector to be able to spin around the wire that is pushed into it? How can there be a decent mechanical connection if the connector can spin around?

I wondered about this too, and checked a number of connections under heavy load with an IR thermometer. The connections are the same temp, sometimes less, than those made with a wire nut. A bad connection would be warmer, hot even. I haven't had to do any rework on account of one of these connectors and I've used a bunch. I tend to use them mostly on lighting circuits as I try to do receptacle circuits with as few pigtails/splices as possible.

I hear a lot of (for lack of a better description)whining about how these connectors look, feel, etc. etc., but have no input about failures yet. I've had some out there a long time with NO issues. I use them almost exclusively for any connection with more than 3 wires on #14, whether I use them on #12 usually has a lot to do with how much room is in the box. If it's tight, I use the push-ins. I just find it convienient to make up lighting circuits with them as there's usually more wires involved and I don't have the "knot" that a wire nut creates.

I know this post is old, but are you referring to these?

http://www.aikencolon.com/Push-In-Wire-Connectors_c_654-1.html

I was considering switching to these as well, but was not 100% sure they would replace my wire nut applications

Here is a link that might be useful: push in wire connectors

ewishki: When I do electrical, I use wire nuts. I make sure the two wires are twisted, making sure there is enough bare wire as to not being too much so that it is exposed beyond the length of the wire nut. Then take the nut and twist it until you cannot twist anymore by hand. Safe, effective and give a good connection. Push in connectors, I do not trust them! If having a loose bad connection certainly makes for a fire hazard. A hazard that a circuit breaker will never detect. I feel the same about push in connectors on the back of switches and plug in outlets. Always use the side mounted screw terminals! Besides, I can almost bet these push in connectors are more expensive than wire nuts.

I know this post is old, but are you referring to these?
http://www.aikencolon.com/Push-In-Wire-Connectors_c_654-1.html

Yes, this what is referenced.

Posted by gmann1 (My Page) on Mon, Nov 10, 08 at 21:05

ewishki: When I do electrical, I use wire nuts. I make sure the two wires are twisted, making sure there is enough bare wire as to not being too much so that it is exposed beyond the length of the wire nut. Then take the nut and twist it until you cannot twist anymore by hand. Safe, effective and give a good connection. Push in connectors, I do not trust them! If having a loose bad connection certainly makes for a fire hazard. A hazard that a circuit breaker will never detect. I feel the same about push in connectors on the back of switches and plug in outlets. Always use the side mounted screw terminals! Besides, I can almost bet these push in connectors are more expensive than wire nuts.

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I think that with the implication of the 2008 NEC that pretty much requires AFCI and GFCI on almost all circuits, it will have an impact on the push in connectors, in that you will see them more when there is a little but less of a worry about arcing.

You can't teach an old dog new tricks. I just recently was Introduced to these little devices by my friend who works for Kirkes Electric (a major local electical company). We just put 6 can lights in my kitchen, installed a fan/light combo in my living room, and replaced all the plugs and switches in my house. The Halo can lights actually come WITH these wagos already attached to the ground neutral and hot wires. Also, there was a receptical with 4 romex coming in and I needed to pigtail-a couple of these wagos made it SO much easier then it wouldve been with wire nuts. I think these little boogers are an awesome invention.

I think that with the implication of the 2008 NEC that pretty much requires AFCI and GFCI on almost all circuits, it will have an impact on the push in connectors, in that you will see them more when there is a little but less of a worry about arcing.

I suppose then we can go back to stabbing receptacles! ;-)

Enough problems occured that #12 wire is no longer allowed in push in receptacles and the holes in the device are to small for the #12 to fit.

FWIW, I believe in Canada #12 wire is still allowed in push-in receptacle connectors.

Myself, I have lots of 1950-'70s vintage Honeywell Tap-Lite switches (the ones with a single, concave pushbutton about an inch in diameter) that only have push-in wire connections - no screws - and they've worked flawlessly, even though I've removed and replaced them frequently.

I've had good luck with them so far. Found an article on the subject here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Push-in connector article

Interesting article, except this:

--

3) As you push the wire into one of the connectorÂs holes, twist the connector clock-wise. If you twist, then the connection will be very tight. If you donÂt, it could slip out later. The process is very simple, but this is the one place you might make a mistake the first time you try it.

--

Is that really true? I understood that no twisting at all was required. These things are supposed to be simple; that's the advantage. I don't see why they would slip out.

Sounds like the connection formed is a league above the dreaded backstab receps, and the flat, space-saving geometry is certainly attractive...

... SO, any brands of these to AVOID?

Well, I'm just wondering if it's yet another "electrical expert" dead-set on scaring the living daylights out of anyone who dares attempt a home project. There is a limitless supply of such "experts."

> I have lots of 1950-'70s vintage Honeywell Tap-Lite
> switches ... that only have push-in wire connections -
> no screws - and they've worked flawlessly ...

Ah, but lighting is (except for McMansions where you're switching dozens of electric radiant space heaters incandescent can lights) a relatively low-current application. I think where you run into trouble is when you apply a substantial load to a poor, high-resistance connection, and that's appreciably more likely with receptacles.

True enough - indeed, most of my backstab switches are controlling low-watt CFL bulbs now. And yes, what is it with McMansions and recessed lights everywhere, invariably fitted with 100-watt R40 incandescents? Guess it saves the builder $10 over using compact fluorescents....

I have done this work all by myself. Found a link that show the picture of how to do it:http://www.kametech.com/Push-wire-connector

beyondfan, I don't see where anyone was asking for instructions on push-ins.

Funny how you are from China. My guess is you are simply advertising for this company. Sound about right?

I would take the article above woth a large grain of salt.

Taping of wire nuts (as shown in the pictures) is not required and often used to hide incorrect stripping and assembly.

I have met more than one AHJ that will demand it be removed and will not pass the work.

I picked up a package of these Ideal connectors. Because I was at home depot buying a new circuit breaker. Because I mysteriously lost power to my basement bathroom. Because the previous homeowner made a wire-nut connection that fell apart and arced enough to kill the circuit breaker. I'm still counting my lucky stars.

So there... now you all have a real life experience against wire nuts. And personally I hate wire nuts. They are ideal for 2 or 3 #12 connection at most. After that you are pushing it. At least as a DIYer without the proper XJr143-F wire twisting tool.

Because the homeowner had no business with a wirenut. I have used some of these connectors with some under cabinet lighting and regular lighting in the basement. I look at these about like the pex tubing on the plumbing side. I have a house full of the pex and on one side really wish it was copper because of the record copper holds up. Plastic products tend to degrade over time..they just do. I have little doubt that the house will out live me before the plumbing starts springing leaks or any of the houses or buildings with a bunch of connectors start to fail. I just wonder how much longer a new house with copper pipe and wire nuts would run issue free compared to a pex pipe and quick connector unit side by side.

"So there... now you all have a real life experience against wire nuts. And personally I hate wire nuts. They are ideal for 2 or 3 #12 connection at most. After that you are pushing it."

This is completely misleading. This is NOT "real life" experience against wire nuts. It is about some hack who did not know what they were doing.
DO NOT blame the wire nut. Blame the nut twisting it.

"At least as a DIYer without the proper XJr143-F wire twisting tool."

Never heard of it. Proper? In who's eyes??

I might have came across like I am against the use of these in my previous post and wanted to clarify. I am for using either one. I am sure the next time I work in a box that is cramped I will use the quick connectors. I would not worry about pulling 20a through one as was posted previously many hotels use them and have for quite awhile with no issues.

If you have spent any time installing recessed cans, most of them have quick connectors tied to the wiring in the cans. Since we usually use 14/2 on lighting circuits, it works well with the can quick connectors. When I use these, I give the inserted wires a good tug to make sure they are well seated.

However, if I have a can with three connections, I cut off the quick connect and use wirenuts. We also use side screwed receptacles and switches and wire nuts where needed.
Guess we are old fashioned.

Just a couple more thoughts here, as I've been involved in this thread before.

I wired up four Halo recessed lights (first time -- yay me!) back in April 2010 and they all had the push-in connectors. Now, some of them did seem to pop out if I wasn't careful during the installation. But once I gave it a good push, I then pulled on all of them and they were pretty secure. And with the way the wires are folded into the box, I really don't see anything coming loose. I've had no problems since I installed them. Finally, since it's on lights, I have a vague feeling that if something did go wrong, I'd notice it, since the loop is only energized when the switch is on. If the switch is off (e.g., when I'm asleep), ain't nothing happening anyway :)

Secondly, I have this more important point. I stayed at a huge, major waterpark resort over Christmas. The place was built in 2006. One of the light switch plates came loose when I turned it on, and the plate came off along with the screws. Being the curious electrical geek I am, I grabbed my keychain flashlight and checked out the wiring. I saw no fewer than two of the push-in connectors in the box. I can only assume that the entire complex is wired this way. Since the place hasn't yet burned to the ground, I'm guessing these things are safe.

Whatever that's worth :)

... 2006... Since the place hasn't yet burned to the ground, I'm guessing these things are safe.

The real question is for HOW LONG? How do these critical components AGE?... i.e. normal oxidation, abnormal heat, humidity, temperature cycling, dust, even (in my locale) salt spray?

There are accepted tests for "accelerated" aging simulation, and presumably these connectors have been subjected to such tests, and passed... where to obtain verification? UL seems like a joke.

That said, I plan on using some soon, both the one-shot type (Ideal), and some re-usable Wagos... one of the advantages of re-usable (lever-lock) connectors is it allows the DIYer to re-wire a busy j-box in stages, i.e. the new wires go into "permanent" push-ins, old wires go into lever-locks, ready for future replacement when new wires are pulled.

Just used my first batch of IDEALs... slick... AND, they have a little test-port, into which a meter probe can be inserted... nice design feature. The enclosed lit. doesn't mention it, but what else could it be?

Anyway, wired my first recep with them... stripped the 14AWG THWN to the designated length, inserted, locked--see-thru design shows all is well--double-checked, left everything hanging out, plugged in 1875W blow-dryer, restored power, turned dryer to max, held Ideals 'twixt thumb and index finger... room temperature.

Flipped CB back off, tucked it all away. Slept fine. ;')

I have learned a trick about pulling the wire out of one that has been inserted. Hold the wire with pliers, twist the receptacle or light switch back and forth and pull. The wire will back out.

If more than one set of romex is coming into and out of a box they should be pigtailed and add 3 wires connecting to the outlet screws. Using 2 push-in connections on an outlet to feed and feed through to other outlets or lights can cause heating and I wouldn't trust it to last 50 years. I had one house that I pigtailed the connections, used the push in plugs and had problems with arc fault breakers tripping anyway. I won't ever use the push in part of outlets or lights again but bend the wire and wrap it around the screw.

Ive been doing electrical for years, and knowing what I know, I would use them for lighting as many led and can lighting devices come with, them, I was checking them out for a rewire Im going to do, but have decided to be safe and not have inspectors come by who dont like them or want to see them in the future for problems that occur, or otherwise, Im leery of using them for appliance circuits that may draw 2200 watts in the kitchen or other high demand or continuous duty high amperage (ac, heating, or large motors draws!!). I will use regular tan wire nuts that are good for 14, 12, or 2 #10s, only!!

Wagos aren't technically "push in." They have a positive clamping lever that needs to be released to get the wire in and out and clamped down to hold it.

What is their advantage over wirenuts? Are they as easily removable? So many of current building practices don't consider undoing!