Your analysis looks good. You need to consult with the power company on what requirements they have for the meter / meter pan for the upgraded service.

Thanks for the feadback. The town will provide the meter can, I think he called it. I am assuming it is the same as the meter pan, or the meter socket. Not quite sure, I am not up on the technical terms.

Does the disconnect at the meter need to be fused? Home Depot has a GE� 200 Amp 240-Volt Non-Fuse Indoor Safety Switch, Model # �TGN3324 for $184, or a GE� 200 amp 240-Volt Fusible Outdoor General-Duty Safety Switch, Model # �TG4324R for $294. As it is going to be inside the garage, I would rather go with the less expenssive option if it will work. I have not found anything saying either way.

thanks,
Michael

The disconnect itself doesn't need to be overcurrent protected, BUT you must protect the feeder (the wiring from the disconnect to your panel), so yes, you'll need to put overcurrent protection there.

Thanks, that is what I was thinking. I will have to do some checking around, $300 for a fused disconnect seems high to me. Maybe it isn't, but sure seems it. Not sure if there are any electrical supply places around me, I guess that is what I get for living in the middle of no where.

Any models I should look for, or stay away from"? I tend to use Square-D for work, but not against any recommendations

Thanks,
Michael

Yeah, the 200A fused disconnectors can be a little large and expensive. You should see the 400A one that is ahead of my transfer switch on my house.

Square D is fine. So is Eaton/Cutler-Hammer, GE, Siemens etc..

i am sure the 400A is large, the 200A is large enough, at least from the dimentions given. I have not layed my hands on it yet.

I am also considering instaling a 200A 12 spot 24 circuit panel and feed the sub off a 125A breaker, and move the large draw appliances to the 200A panel. That would be a lot more work, because of the way things are layed out here, but it is an option I am tossing around as well.

this would be easier if the town let me move the meter location.

Michael

The other option would be to see if there is an option for a meter base with a OCD/disconnect in it.

I think I found an option I can live with now. HD has a 200A trailer home panel. It has the 200A main breaker, and also has feed through lugs on it. It is about a 3rd of the cost of the 200A disconnect.

Thanks,
Michael

Yeah, I was going to suggest it might be easier just to put in the smallest 200A panel you could find. By the way, just to stave off any other comments, the RV/Maufacturered Home SquareD panel is listed as a regular panel.

The panel I found was the Siemens� 200 Amp 8-Space 16-Circuit Outdoor Main Breaker Trailer Panel Model PW0816B1200TC. Do you happen to know the model of the Square-D one? My current panel is a QO, and I have some HomeLine breakers left over from my last house. Seems simpler to keep everythig the same. I might put a 220V outlet in my garage if I have the panel to do it, better to run my dust collector, and hopefully my new jointer. I was avoiding a small panel cause the largest breakers I could find to power the sub were 125A or so, but if they have feed through lugs, that is no longer a concern.

Homeline breakers will not fit a QO panel.

yep, I know that, sorry maybe I was not quite clear. I was basically stating I have stuff for a QO and HomeLine panel, so if there is a rv/mobile home panel made in one of those styles I would prefer it over what I already found.

Michael

They make RV panels in both HOM and QO lines. I assumed you were using the HOMELINE one because Home Despot has it listed on their website.

Yep, I think I found them. I think I am going to go with the QO line though. I can get it from Menards for $129, which is less than HD, or anywhere else for that matter. I think this is the right model, Model Number: QO1816M200FTRB.

Michael