Sure, it looks like it should work. You could also run two 14-2 runs from the dimmer to each section of lighting.

Awesome, thanks! Might actually be easier to just do the second run to the lighting on the opposite wall, thanks for the suggestion. :)

The junction box you linked has a switch in it. You don't need a switch if you have a wall switch. They do show links at both ends so you should be feed through to the other set.
Both sets will be controlled by the same switch however.

Yikes! thanks for pointing that out Joed - that is the wrong box. The installation instructions show the right one (altho I don't see any reason not to just use a regular outlet box with a plate).

" The installation instructions show the right one (altho I don't see any reason not to just use a regular outlet box with a plate)."

If you do not want blank plates scattered around for junction boxes you can also use the kitchen counter receptacle boxes a junction boxes fro wiring the under cabinet lighting.

Watch carefully for box fill, and you might even have to use 4 inch square boxes and a plaster ring for some of the counter receptacles to get a large enough box.

Since the runs to the under cabinet lights are all 120 V, all the regular NEC rules apply, but having different circuits share a junction box is allowed.

Thanks for the tip, brickeyee about the shared junction box.

In this case, I plan to "hide" the junction boxes inside the upper cabinets. Just have to get that cut just right in the cabinet :)