-They don't have to be 4' apart. Four feet is the maximum they can be apart.

-For new work and renovations all kitchen counter receptacles must be GFI protected. Yes, the first in line can protect the rest if wired that way. Meaning power in to "LINE" and "LOAD" out to the other receptacles.

-NO, you cannot feed anything but kitchen area receptacles off these circuits.

Keep in mind, the NEC mandates at least two kitchen counter (small appliance) circuits, regardless of kitchen size.

"Keep in mind, the NEC mandates at least two kitchen counter (small appliance) circuits, regardless of kitchen size."

i want to make sure i have this right. the receptacles above the counter have to be 2 seperate ccts... i will have a total of 4 about the counter and another 5 throughout the room. can i have 2 gfiu protected and 3 regular on the same cct and 2gfi and 2 regular on another circut?

You must have (at least) two small appliance circuits feeding the countertop receptacles. You can distribute them as you like. It's common here to alternate by receptacle but there's no requirement to do so as long at least one receptacle is on each circuit.

The circuits can provide power to other receptacles in the same kitchen (and certain other related spaces).

All the countertop receptacles must be protected by GFCI. One GFCI on each circuit (properly installed) can protect other outlets on that circuit. Hence you only need 2.

so if i have 9 outlets total (not including micro/fridge/DW) i can split the 5 and 4 with 2 countertop outlets and 3 more from across the room on 1 cct and the other 2 countertop outlets with 2 more from across the room on another?

If you have four counter area receptacles, you need two seperate circuits feeding two outlets each with a GFCI for each. Yes, you can feed other outlets from each circuit but all receptacles downstream from the GFCI will be protected by those GFCIs. The home run coming into the GFCI is mounted on the line side and the wiring going to the second counter top receptacle mounts on the load side to the second standard receptacle. Since this standard receptacle has four screws, you can wire off that to other receptacles. Now, that said, I would not do this. When we wire counter top outlets, we do not wire other outlets. We wire all outlets in the kitchen and dining room on 20 amp circuits. We will do non-countertop kitchen outlets on one home run and the dining room outlets on another home run. We normally run overhead lights and undercounter lights on 15 amp circuits with a seperate home run in each room. NEC code is pretty particular about wiring kitchens and dining rooms. All of this precludes wiring for refrigerators, microwaves, disposers, dishwashers and ovens.

okay, i think i am starting to get a plan together. looks like cost is going up and up and up... as it seems like i will now have a total of 6 cct's just for the kitchen! 2 for counter top, 1 for fridge, one for micro, one for DW and 1 general with 5 outlets and lighting (there are only 2 flush mount lights for the room). sound like its okay? obviously i will check with our local code officer before actually starting the work, i just wanted to get a feel for how things are going to go.

thanks for everyone's help on this.

My extended countertop is under a a low window & I could not add a wall outlet to meet the 4' rule without hitting framing behind the wall.

Looks like the Mockett receptacle will not meet the requirements for the 4' rule since it comes with a cord, and hence is considered a "tap".

I found this pop-up one from LEW that does have the UL code that will meet the countertop requirement--although it is not cheap, I have no other choice. Look partway down the page for the PUP-CT-BK (black) or PUP-CT-SS for stainless. Still checking the install details

Here is a link that might be useful: LEW pop-up counter top receptacle