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| I have a 7-year-old GE refrigerator/freezer in my unheated, insulated, attached garage in the Midwest. When it gets very cold, the freezer stops working and my food partially defrosts. I have read that this is a common problem. If I understand correctly, the unit runs based on the temperature sensor inside the refrigerator. So when it's 30 degrees in my garage, it stops running which is fine for the fridge, but not for the freezer. There is a product called a Chillerator made by Whirlpool which is specifically designed to work in very hot or very cold environments like a garage. But it's pricey. I was wondering if a halogen or LED puck light inside my fridge might generate enough heat to trick the whole unit into running even when the garage gets very cold. I'm interested in any comments on this idea or any other (easy) solutions to my problem. Thank you. Amy |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| They make a "garage kit" for your fridge that is a small heater coil that is installed inside the fridge temp controller cover. The kit cost about $39. |
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| The oil in the compressor needs to be warm. You may be able to get by with a 100 watt bulb (for heat) - position it right by the compressor, or you need a heating pad glued to the compressor. |
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| There are really two problems here. The one that doug_gb pointed out is common to most freezers and refrigerators. Even if that problem is solved, the thermostat is in the refrigerator. If the temp in the garage is too low, the compressor will never run and the freezer will get too warm. Heating the compressor and a heat source in the refrigerator compartment might both be necessary. An LED in the refrigerator won't produce much heat. A light bulb should do it, but you could consider a heating pad or maybe something more exotic: http://www.hydrofarm.com/product.php?itemid=3351 |
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- Posted by efficiency5 (My Page) on Sat, Jan 19, 13 at 13:47
| Thanks for the responses. I believe the "kit" that is sold is just for Frigidaire and even if not, I don't have the expertise to install. I might try the bulbs or heating pads as ionized suggested. One (probably dumb) question...the bulb or pad inside the fridge - how would I close the door over the electrical cord or would it be ok if the door didn't fully close? |
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| The door will close all the way, the weatherstripping will just indent slightly where the cord is. |
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| The thermostat in the unit wi lwork just fine. If it gets warm it will close and try to turn on the compressor. The compressor may not be able to run with oil that is cold. Just like turning on a central air compressor in cold weather, the oil can slug the compressor and stop it from moving (or slug it with accumulated refrigerant from the evaporator). Put a heater blowing on the compressor. |
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| Typical modern refrigerator-freezers have two controls. There is a simple damper that divides the cold air flow between the refrig. and freezer compartments. Then the thermostat is in the refrigerator compartment In addition to adding a heat source to the refrigerator compartment, you might turn the controls for the cold air distribution all the way to the coldest freezer position. Remember where you had it set so you can return it there when the weather starts to warm up. You obviously want to pick a heat source that will run the compressor as little as possible while keeping the frozen food cool enough. I don't really know if that would be a 100W bulb or a 7W bulb, Optimal will also vary with external temperature. You might need to experiment a little. Just get a freezer thermometer and give it a try. BTW, halogen lights produce less heat per Watt than standard incandescents so they are not the best choice either. |
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- Posted by alan_s_thefirst (My Page) on Wed, Jan 23, 13 at 1:44
| Lots of people in Canada keep their deep freezers outside, I suppose up in the Territories it might be too cold for them (but then they just don't run I guess) so a separate freezer might be an option. You wouldn't have a problem then, it will figure itself out with temperatures. Use the fridge freezer for unimportant things, or not at all. |
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| You do not need a heater in the unit, just on the compressor. The refrigerator thermostat will work just fine to keep the refrigerator at the set point IF the compressor can come on when the thermostat closes. If it is so cold outside the unit the thermostat never closes, then the temp is already below the set point. You may have some trouble with the freezer compartment, but only if you have a newer refrigerator/freezer combination. It is not going to take much of a thermal load in the unit to swamp the compressor capacity. There is a real reason the bulb goes off when the door is closed. A 5 W resistor on a variable supply would be a more usable solution. |
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| 'The refrigerator thermostat will work just fine to keep the refrigerator at the set point IF the compressor can come on when the thermostat closes.' Yes, but the freezer may easily become too warm as the OP observed. "If it is so cold outside the unit the thermostat never closes, then the temp is already below the set point." Yes, but the freezer will be too warm. "You may have some trouble with the freezer compartment, but only if you have a newer refrigerator/freezer combination." Please define "newer". "It is not going to take much of a thermal load in the unit to swamp the compressor capacity." At common room temperature, sure, but at unheated garage temperature Maybe not. "There is a real reason the bulb goes off when the door is closed. See above comment about unheated garages and refrigerators. "A 5 W resistor on a variable supply would be a more usable solution." You and I may have that on hand, but the average homeowner will not. On the other hand, since incandescent bulbs are available in many power outputs, it will be a usable solution. As the garage temperature decreased further (say from 20 to -20), a larger power bulb might be required. Anything from a 4W E12 ( Candelabra) to a E26 base bulb much larger can be easily stuck into a refrigerator compartment on the end of an inexpensive extension cord with a socket adaptor or a night light luminaire. |
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- Posted by alan_s_thefirst (My Page) on Fri, Jan 25, 13 at 0:27
| It does seem wasteful, though - heating part of a fridge in order to keep another part cooler? I guess if that's what it takes... |
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- Posted by efficiency5 (My Page) on Fri, Feb 1, 13 at 22:20
| Thank you for the suggestions. After some more research, I decided to go ahead and order the Chillerator. Some combination of light bulbs, electrical tape, resistors, and heating pads would probably work, but they are beyond what I want to try and not guaranteed. I appreciate the advice and will post back on how the Chillerator works out. |
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- Posted by MattTheApplianceGuy (My Page) on Thu, Mar 7, 13 at 10:53
| This is only a problem with new fridges. Old fridges, 60's through the mid-nineties, have no problem in the garage. New appliances are junk (there are a few exceptions), Get a used fridge from a reputable used dealer for the garage. |
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| What is the design change that kills them at lower temps? |
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