I took a look at the other thread. I think the under cabinet lighting is a real hack job. I don't think your electrician has very good judgement.

I would look at WAC low voltage lighting - we have that under our cabinets. With 'real' lighting fixtures the wires can be cut to length. Holes can be drilled to run the wire between the cabinets.

http://www.waclighting.com/USA/products/?categoryid=52

The power supply could be in one of the cabinets (either upper or lower).

Are those direct wired?

The electrician didn't install the lighting, just the plugs. My dh put up the lighting and said the wires could be moved but he wanted to see if the lights were in the right places. He said the wires couldn't be shortened though, just tucked under the edge of cabinet so they weren't as visible.

Not good enough for me. I don't want to see a wad of wires anywhere when I'm sitting at the table.

I installed some switched outlets above my cabinets and used Hera lights. I placed the transformers above the cabinets. They can be dimmed on their primaries so I could use a normal dimmer switch on them. I then ran the wires down between the cabinets. The lights themselves are low profile so you don't see much.

The plug cannot be on the backsplash under the cabinet.

Period.

Only GFCI protected small appliance branch circuit receptacles are allowed there.

And it looks like a hack.

jreagan, I too have placed, and usually even prefer, receptacles above the cabinets for under-counter lighting and it creates a much cleaner installation, but please be aware that under the NEC, you can not incorporate a dimmer into receptacle circuits - NEC 404.14(e).

There are some specialty receptacles made that allow this by using special plugs or adapters.

But otherwise, it's still a great idea!

Those pre-wired plug-in puck like are complete CRAP!
They package and market them as SO easy to install, yet the wires are NEVER the right length so you h ave to deal with bunches of slack and you cannot cut and extend the factory wiring so you're stuck there as well.

I'd move those illegal receptacles into a cabinet and run hard wired lights.

If the pucks are 120 V you will have short bulb life.

Just the vibration from placing items on the bottom of the cabinet above them shortens the bulb life.

Low voltage pucks have much more rugged filaments.

I prefer 12 V pucks with 60 W power supplies that fit into a single device box.
You bring the 120 V in, hook up the supply, then bring the 12 V out though the box cover and then through the cabinet bottom from inside to the pucks.

Since it is low voltage and NOT concealed wiring you get a lot of relief from code rules.

This post was edited by brickeyee on Sat, Jan 12, 13 at 13:51

Didn't know about the restriction on dimmers on receptacle circuits (and I even pointed that out to an electrical inspector who's a friend of mine). Perhaps he gave me a pass since the only two receptacles are high above the cabinets powering only the transformers. I have read some stories about the problem in general so I understand the concerns.

Also, I find it odd that Hera promotes the ability to dim the primary side of their transformers which have a plug. By definition, such a thing is against the code you cited.

OT-Just to confirm, cove lighting is allowed plugged into an outlet above the cabinets but you cannot dim? Is this correct ?

Many lights have dimmers built in to their controls. My situation was using a dimmer on the receptacle. That is against code. There is no restriction on using a light system that has its own dimmer built-in.

The electrical code prohibits controlling an ordinary receptacle with a dimmer. If you find yourself in a situation where you need/want to control a receptacle with a dimmer, Leviton makes a special receptacle that has a "hump" between the two slots to prevent plugging any old device into that receptacle. They also make a special plug that has recess to accept the hump. They are several times more expensive than ordinary receptacles and plugs.

jreagan & mike thank you for the explanation