It can be done. Actually you probably don't even need any covering of the cable inside the cabinet other than for aesthetic reasons. The hardest part would be finding a power source but you can probably tap into that lamp in the soffit over the window. It might take some drywall work (but maybe not depending on whether you get lucky.

What you can not do is tap into one of the kitchen receptacle circuits.

Ronnatalie, Thank-you.

Are you saying that I'd need a separate switch to run the 2 sconces? I have a single switch under the cab on the left side of the sink that runs the can lights in the ceiling only.

My 1937 Cape has plaster walls that are rock hard, so the 'sheetrock work' will be tough. There's no soffit; the cans are in the ceiling. The overhead light is on a separate switch. There is a receptacle under that right hand cab shown in the first pic for the fridge and the TV on the counter, so I'll stay away from that.

Nope, you don't need a seperate switch. If you can wire them to the existing any lighting circuit, that would work fine.

I hear you about old style plaster.

Get an electrician whose got some experience with old houses. This should be old hat to him.

Thanks! I will and appreciate your help.

It must be pointed out that a box must be cut into those cabinets at each fixture location. The box will protrude and reduce the available space inside the cabinet at that point.

Thanks, bus_driver, That I understood, and it'll be a good time for me to take out things in the cabinets that don't get used and are just there being 'stored'.

I have read about 'pancake' boxes that accept 14/2 wire; do you think those would work in this case? If someone would link they type of box I should be using, it would be much appreciated. Between the cabinet box and the full maple overlay, I have 1.5" of depth on each side where I'd like to have them installed.

[ post deleted because it was a response to a post the moderators deleted ]

This post was edited by ronnatalie on Mon, Jan 12, 15 at 8:59