The mower is running. I cut grass with it for a few hours this afternoon. In all I replaced the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, impulse tube, magneto, air filter, and spark plugs. The latest reason the engine wouldn't start was the fact that the float was sticking in the carb and the old gas has varnished and clogged one of the jets. After a good cleaning, the mower will fire right up and run. The only problem I'm having now is after the engine runs for a while it starts sputtering a little like a misfire, but I never feel any decrease in power. If I put the mower on a slow idle it will surge. Trying to figure that one out now, thinking something is up with the governor on the mower. Any ideas on the latest problem would be appreciated.

Sometimes a "recall" isn't really a federally mandated recall at all. Some recalls really amount to the OEM getting hit with a bunch of failures during the warranty period of the machine (read that as "premature failure) where the OEM has to belly up to the bar and pay for those failures. Once the OEM has enough proof of defective whateveritis they bought from the lowest bidding vendor for those whatevertheyare, the OEM will call the vendor to the office and demand the supplier of the thingiestheyare to stand behind their defective product. Often, the vendor and the OEM will agree on coverage of a specific "lot number or production run" of the components and handle the problem by either contacting the consumers who bought products with the affected component to offer a replacement even if the part has not failed yet. Or they may say that if the part has failed, it will be replaced. If your tractor fuel tank had begun leaking 8 years ago, you would have stood a better chance of getting a free tank replacement. Realistically speaking, a plastic fuel tank that begins leaking 9 years after DOM would/could arguably have failed due to reasons other than "defective workmanship or materials", at least that's what the lawyers would say.

Hi Cpartist... No, we definitely didn't steal the materials, but we also didn't just go down to HD to buy everything either. There are lots of ways to save money if you're willing to look. For the kitchen we have an L-shaped section of cabinets which includes a built-in sink and dishwasher on one side, a refrigerator on the other side. and stove in the middle. There is also a second short wall of cabinets across from the L-shaped section that includes a double GE convection oven which only cost us about $150. We got it for free because it wasn't working, but it just needed a new board installed which is where the $150 comes in. The cabinets definitely aren't as nice as our cabinets at our main home in Florida, but they certainly aren't made from particle board or something like that. The way we built the house so cheaply was by doing the work ourselves; having the time to spend looking for the best deals on this or that; or finding great deals on items that we could fix or re-purpose for our needs. The wood floors we got from the Lumber Liquidators annual sale. In the bathrooms we installed stone tile in the showers, tile on the floors, and used granite topped vanities bought from Costco for a couple hundred dollars. Ultimately, though, I think the biggest thing that people are missing here is the difference between single level and multi level construction. The biggest expenses in building our house, besides from the high end windows and doors, were the roof and the foundation. Framing out a house is cheap and easy. Adding an extra floor to a house is incredibly cheap and easy, and it basically doubles the square footage. We're working with three stories including the fully finished walk-out basement. That's essentially three times the square footage for little extra cost. We actually could have spent far less on the house. The windows and doors were by far the largest expense, but they are incredibly high quality and they are very well insulated.

If you turn off the first floor AC, does the lilac smell migrate to the first floor from your cellar table? If not, you are right and the installer is wrong. You have a duct leak somewhere that is drawing cellar air into your system. That depressurizes the cellar and pressurizes the first floor. Outside air is then sucked into the cellar and inside air blown out of the first floor area. That seems like way too much air leakage for a new system. It is inefficient at best, but it can cause other problems as well. Depressurizing an area of the home can be dangerous. It can prevent the exit of combustion fumes from water heaters, boilers and furnaces and fill the house with them. What kind of heat and water heater do you have and where are they located? If you cellar is cool and outside is humid, drawing in outside air could lead to higher humidity in the cellar if the dew point of the outside air is lower than cellar temperature. f the system is not supposed to condition the cellar, you should not see much of an effect on humidity down there. What was the cellar humidity like before AC install? You might have to attack this problem separately. Is it warm or cool down there? Did the same outfit install the second system?