"Each little hair on the stem turns into a root. " Although I am well aware that tomatoes will produce roots along the stem if it is buried under soil I am intrigued by the statement that EVERY trichome on the stem will turn into a root. This just doesn't seem possible given the evidence of one's own eyes. I looked this up after reading it and find it repeated all over the place but I cannot find any scientific research (which I can understand) which tells me this is actually so, rather than the adventitious roots being produced by some other mechanism. Can anyone point to a scientific source for this information? I'm intrigued. I can't spare any tomato plants but would someone like to try rubbing off all the trichomes and then burying a stem to see if it will still root? I'd love to know what happens. p.s. nobody has yet warned Contadino against those peat/cow/pulp pots which might have a lot to do with the stunting.

One of the things I keep on hand are Vaponex strips. You can get them at Lowe's usually. They are todays version of the Shell No-Pest Strip from the 70's. I use these whenever I get new plants. I put the plants in a box, put in the strip, close the lid, and leave for 12 hours. If there are any thrips, it will kill them. I repeat two more times one week apart. I find this method much easier than spraying. I keep the strip in a sealed baggie. Contact John Cook at Cape Cod Violetry for smaller quantities of some of the stuff you may need. He also is a great source for pots. I use Lysol spray for powdery mildew. Barbara Here is a link that might be useful: Cape Cod Violetry

In doing my research, I found this. Looks good. I am going to give it a try. Propagation Carpentaria palms are grown from seed, and are widely available in south Florida. Contact your Extension Office for the location of fruiting palms that may be near you from which seed can be collected. Only fresh seeds should be used. Remove the fleshy covering surrounding the seed either mechanically or by soaking in water for several days. The fruit wall contains an irritant (calcium oxylate crystals) and should not be handled extensively or cleaned with bare hands. Seeds should be planted in shallow containers filled with a mixture of 50 percent peat moss and 50 percent perlite. Plant the seeds so that they are barely covered. If damping-off or other fungus diseases are a problem, drench the container with a seed protectant fungicide. Germination occurs within two to three months if the seeds are kept warm (80 to 85F). At cooler temperatures, germination may be delayed for as long as one year. Seedling containers should be kept evenly moist. Transplant the seedling carpentaria palms into four- or six-inch containers when they are five- to six-inches tall. Use a standard potting mix that allows good drainage. Begin a fertilization program at once, using slow release fertilizers recommended for foliage production. Add micro-elements to the soil mix. Young plants grow best when grown under 30 to 50 percent shade. As the palm roots begin to fill the soil ball, move them to larger pots or transplant to a field nursery. Older containerized plants can be grown in full sun. Transplanting Field-grown carpentaria palms transplant readily with no prior root pruning. Standard practices of tying the leaves with twine to support the tender bud and reduce transpiration should be used. Under no circumstance should the root ball be allowed to dry out. Containerized palms also transplant readily. The planting site requires no advance preparation. Current planting recommendations discourage mixing soil amendments with the backfill. Rather, it is important to apply a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the newly planted palm. Mulch improves the soil, and reduces weed competition and water consumption. Care After Planting Standard fertilization, using granular fertilizer with a 3131 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, complete with all micro-elements, provides all the nutrients the carpentaria palm requires. Use one to three pounds per application, increasing gradually to 3 to 10 pounds, depending on the size of the palm. Reapply every three to four months. A fertilizer program such as that recommended for coconut palms ("A Fertilization Program for the Coconut Palm," OH-55) works very well for carpentaria palms. Pests and Diseases Fortunately, very few pests and diseases have been observed on the carpentaria palm. No cases of lethal yellowing have been observed even in areas where the palm was surrounded by other types of palms dying from this disease. However, complete resistance to lethal yellowing cannot be determined until methods of artificially transmitting the disease under controlled conditions are developed. Common insect pests such as palm aphid, scale, and caterpillars are readily controlled with available insecticides. Consult your Cooperative Extension Service office for current recommendations. Thrips damage has been seen on carpentaria palms. These insects can also be easily controlled with insecticides. The rapid growth of carpentaria palms produces a soft trunk that requires several months to become woody. Severe damage can occur to the trunks if they are hit with lawnmowers or cord-type weeders. The damaged trunks invite fungus diseases that can weaken or destroy the palm. Copper-based fungicides control leafspot fungus that can occur after cold weather.

Thought I'd chime in with one more thing, since I just read the "4 y/o Bosch bites the dust" thread... Maybe it's attributable to my fastidious dish rinse routine or sheer dumb luck, but I have managed to make my low end Whirlpool Gold d/w last 12+ years. Not even really sure how old it is -- it was here when I bought this place 10 years ago and I vaguely remember hearing that the previous owners replaced all appliances two years before I bought it. I have not, not once, not a single time EVER, had to have it serviced. It sounds pretty much like a freight train during an atomic bomb detonation but it runs every time, all the time. That is the kind of reliability I need in my life. I'm wondering if I can realistically expect that with a Miele or Bosch or any other manufacturer (including Whirlpool) for that matter. ::Thinking twice about even posting this, due to the jinxing risk::