We used the "Zip" system for sheathing. VERY air tight and good product in my opinion. See the link below. Also used Marvin Integrity, but we are in the south.

Here is a link that might be useful: link to huberwood zip system

I second the zip but upgrade to zip +R which adds a layer of insulative sheathing. Walls are actually pretty low on the list of areas to focus air sealing efforts but the zip makes the walls super easy with the exception of the windows. Cant offer too much guidance on material and brand but I tend to think the installation details could be more important. Air leaks here can wipe out perceived energy savings of particular window choices.

Any of the other options can work. I strongly suggest meeting the 2012 IECC as a minimum. What climate and what says your builder on these manners? If you post this in the Building a Home forum, youre sure to get more replies.

Polaris and Sunrise vinyl windows are available in your area. Both of these mfr's produce low end to high end units. As long as you stick with the higher end units of both of these brands, you won't go wrong.

Good Luck

Soft-Lite is available as well and some say Okna has infiltrated the area.

Feel free to ping me.

Depending on construction type, there are a million things you can do to build a supremely efficient structure.

Whatever window you go with, it needs to be sub 0.20 U-factor if you are trying to build an efficient wall.

Thank you all for the great suggestions so far. The Zip + R looks like a good option for sheathing. I'm going to try to see if I can see some of the brands mentioned in person (Soft-Lite, Polaris, Integrity I know I can look at, and possibly Okna if I can find it).

Windowsonwashington- Thanks for the offer. I'll message you with the plan I'm looking at. Since I'm in Minnesota, 2" X 6" walls are the minimum but I'm trying to find the most cost effective option to get the walls to R40 and R60 for the roof.

Depends if you want to use foam or not.

Staggered walls with some insulated sheathing will get you there.

That's really been the core of the debate I'm having. is the closed cell foam worth it? Or would cellulose with sheathing like the Zip-R work just about as well? I've been reading as much as I can and it seems that if the other installers are careless and cut into the foam that would diminish the performance somewhat?

I was also possibly considering if double 2" X 4" walls would be worth it.

This is the plan that my builder is going to modify a bit for me (elevation, master bath and the walls obviously can't be 2" X 4"). My budget is around $300-$325K not including the lot.

Here is a link that might be useful: 1387 Rambler House Plan

Yes.

Don't use SPF for your wall design if you can avoid it. Some flash and batt is plenty as the foam just needs to air seal the structure.

Look at the sprayable sealants.