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| We have several bids to replace our 17 windows--12 casements and 5 DHs--with wood/clad argon filled, and we've boiled our choice down to two. The Pella Architect (U34) bid is about $17,000 and the Weather Shield "CustomShield" model with Zo-e-Shield glazing (U 24) is about $10,500. We know that the Pella is an excellent window, but the price is very steep. We like the lower price and lower Ufactor of the Weather Shield, but we know nothing about this brand except the two very negative posts on this forum and the fact that Consumer's Reports trashed it., Has anyone had a good experience with Weather Shield? Does anyone here recommend it? Comments would be much appreciated. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I also compared the two brands and found that the aluminum cladding is much thicker and stronger on the Weathershield. The only thing better on the Pella Architect as far as I can see is that the sash balance mechanism is covered so you can't see it from the inside view of the window. Also, a little less vinyl shows on the outside of the window. It didn't seem like enough to justify the higher price to me, but I don't have the Weathershields yet so I can't tell you how it ended. Warranties look similar. |
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| Thanks very much for your response, jlopdx. It supports my own observations. Weathershield has an "extruded" aluminium cladding, which is the industry norm now, I bellieve. Pella still has the old kind that's not as strong. I have been annoyed to learn that Weathershield's U factor is NOT the .24 that they claim, but actually .33 for the whole unit. The lower figure was for the center of the glass and that's not the way NFRC measures thermal performance. It was misleading. I'm still inclined to go with the WS anyway, for the same reasons you mentioned, unless I learn something on this forum that dissuades me. |
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| Hello meremor. The only part of pella that is rollform/thin cladding is on the sash. Everything else is extruded. Don't count on thick aluminum to provide strength to the window. That comes from a solid, well built wood sash. Pella casements have the highest design pressure ratings in the industry and have the best casement hardware in the industry. (Your hardware and moving parts will fail before your cladding will) There are FAR more important components to a well built window than if you have extruded or rollformed cladding. Cladding was created to protect the wood underneath from sun/water damage, not be the strength of a window. I have heard good customer satisfaction with weathershield. I have pella and am very happy. I wouldn't rule out pella because of cladding. |
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| go for energy efficency, so find tripple pane windows. your wallet will be happy come heating bill season |
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| Thank you both for your much needed counsel. We decided to go with Weather Shield, for two reasons. First, I know Pella is one of the 2 or 3 best windows made, but their price would impose real hardship on us. And second, the local Weathershield dealer has an extremely good reputation in my community for doing high quality work at a reasonable price, Here's hoping we chose well. |
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| I am eager to learn about long-term experience with Weather Shield unclad wood windows. We are building a large addition, and our architect recommends the "Weather Shield" series of the Weather Shield brand, based on decades of experience in designing upscale (but not palatial) homes and a long-term relationship with the local dealer. Some of the builders we have talked with installed Weather Shield windows on their own homes and like them. We prefer unclad wood windows to match the existing colonial wood windows. However, Weather Shield's 20-year warranty is much less favorable for the wood parts of unclad wood windows compared to clad wood windows. (For unclad, years 2-20 are covered at 50% instead of 100%; for clad it's years 11-20.) My question to experienced window installers out there is: Are Weather Shield unclad properly-painted wood windows unusual for being prone to deterioration compared to other brands, and should one avoid them? |
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| I'd like to echo waldstein's question to those experienced with unclad wood windows (especially from Weather Shield). We're planning to install old fashioned, all wood, unclad, single pane windows with true divided lites in our upcoming Northern CA remodel. For the more modern double pane, aluminum clad windows with simulated divided lites our architect recommends Andersen but only Weather Shield seems to be able to fulfill our somewhat unusual desire for simpler, more historically authentic windows. |
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- Posted by bostoncollege1993 (My Page) on Fri, Nov 30, 07 at 10:29
| My wife and I built built a new home in the Cape Cod, MA area three years ago. We painted the windows instead of the prefinished clad to stay with the Bungalow of the neighborhood. I was set on going with wood Marvin windows but my architect eventually talked me out of it. He had some bad experience with pine rotting in several manufactures over the years. We looked at several more durable wood speices; mahogany, cedar, and douglas fir. We end up going with the douglas fir and still feel it was the best decisions. You may want to see if Weathershield can upgrade to the douglas fir if you're going to paint. |
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| I don't always listen to architects. I have windws out there that have been installed for 20+ years that have never rotted. I did a job 2 years ago with one architect and he basically yelled at me in front of my customer that I had no idea how to install windows properly and he got the customer to have me pull all the windows out and reinstall them to his specifications. Without the customers knowledge I left one window on each side of the house installed my way and reinstalled the rest to the architects specifications. This fall I was back replacing windows that had started to rot and guess what....the windows I left installed my way are still fine, the ones installed to the arhitects specifications were all leaking and rotting. Now the customer is going after the architect to pay my costs for the replacements, because I was able to show them how the Architects specs allowed the water in |
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| I called Weather Shield and was told that the do not make windows of solid douglas fir or species other than pine. They do have custom interior woods, which are LVL veneers. I was surprised that the customer service rep seemed not aware that some manufacturers such as Loewen do make windows of non-pine species of wood. I also have seen a "Dear Valued Customer" letter sent by Weather Shield to dealers responding to Consumer Reports (Oct. 2007) poor rating of the Weather Shield Custom Shield replacement window product. To very briefly summarize: WS asked CR what testing methods they used for wind resistance and why CR does not use the AAMA testing protocol or NFRC ratings which are accepted by all window manufacturers. They asked how many units were tested and where and when they were purchased. The letter states that Custom Shield underwent a design change in 2006 and WS does not know whether CR tested the old or the new design. WS stated that all their products are rigorously tested for air and water infiltration, etc., etc. and their tests are confirmed by third party testing labs. Custom Shield product has been verified to achieve between a DP 30 and a DP 60 rating depending on the type and size of the window. The final paragraph states that WS takes outside assessments such as this very seriously and will continue to pursue the documentation they seek from the magazine, and that they will help CR understand the rigorous testing that the window and door industry already has in place, and they can help CR adjust its methods to make a more accurate comparison of similar products. |
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- Posted by gardenofeden1 (My Page) on Tue, Apr 7, 09 at 13:36
| DONT DO IT! I have the wheather shield aluminum clad windows. 10- 31 x 52's. THE WINDOW JUST FELL OUT OF THE HOUSE! Its in the 30's here, I replaced it with sheet of cardboard till I can find replacements. All the tracking hardware is falling out, the vinyl seals are shreaded, the framing is all seperated at the joinery, they are all clouded up and have moisture inside. Im not talking about 1 window either, ALL of them have issues. I called the company and the warrantee is 20 years (on the just the glass lol) but the rest is only 5. Now I must replace all the windows in this house! Costing me 1000's. My parents house is over 100 years old and has better windows than these. I never saw a window fall out of a house before. Im not talking about the frame, the 2 pieces of glass and the inside aluminum frame. This is becuase of how it was manufactured. I called the company and they shuffled me around only to say too bad, so sad, the warrantee has expired on the framing and was only good for 5 years. AND GET THIS>>> IS NON TRANSFERIBLE from the original purchaser! So its ZERO warrantee if you sell your house. Spend the extra money to get quality windows and you will be glad you did. Dont take the cheap way out. |
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- Posted by johnmcfarm (My Page) on Wed, Apr 8, 09 at 17:56
| I used Weathershield clad windows. Have had to replace over 40% of the sashes thus far. The seal on the double pane has a very high failure rate. My last series of replacements will now cost me 50%. Interesting thing I was informed about it that the new sashes will be "timed" as if they were part of the original purchase in terms of warranties. Not sure that is legal...but I am stuck at this point and have to go with it. I instructed them to put that in writing for me. |
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| John- You may want to check out replacing the glass locally. My weathershields started fogging at 5 years and getting the pro-rated glass from them was twice the price from a local glass shop. |
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- Posted by IM140.6(mglanert@aol.com) onTue, Mar 9, 10 at 3:32
| The poster "Meremor" in incorrect in stating the following: "I have been annoyed to learn that Weathershield's U factor is NOT the .24 that they claim, but actually .33 for the whole unit. The lower figure was for the center of the glass and that's not the way NFRC measures thermal performance. It was misleading. The lower figure was for the center of the glass and that's not the way NFRC measures thermal performance." I suggest you look at this link which details that Weathershield does indeed test the "Total Unit" and that the unit calculations are determined Using the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) Procedures for determining fenestration product values. When comparing glazing performance with other products, be sure to compare "Total Unit" Calculations to "Total Unit" Calculations. We are happy we choose the Weather Shield product as the Marvin equal (which we liked better at first) would have cost 20-30% more. If you compaire them side by side as I did - I think you will select the Weather Shield product although detail is in the beholder. Really only these 2-mfg's (Weathershield and Marvin) are close in the Aluminum/Wood Clad offering the wide selection of woods (Maple, Chery, Oak, etc..) I choose to go with the Weathershield's Custom Shield Zoe7 (Tri-Pane in Marvin speek) casement aluminum clad w/solid Maple interior wood adding high-end Maple Wood trim to further trim out the interior with windowsill and picture framing of the window opening followed by custom water based stain and clear urethane satin finish. We also choose to go with the Kynar 500 exterior finish (that Marvin does as a standard). Weather Shield has the easycare exterior finish on the glass which helps keep it clean - this is an extra on Marvin... Custom Shield also has the same performance specifications in the casement design which we choose. My goals were both High Performance and Great interior appearance - with a .28 Ufactor and .19 SHGH exceeds most any window out there and easly meets the 30/30 rebate requirement. The Vinyl Options (like Accent Windows) out there just don't compare to the rich high end look of solid stained hardwood interior.
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| ooops I stated .28 Ufactor and it should have been .24 |
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| Meremor was correct in the U-value statement, and there are a lot of window representatives that dishonestly state the independent glass values as a representation of their "whole" products. Your case was simply different, as you selected a triple glass option. Your rep could have indicated a U-value of .19 as the whole window, in a similar circumstance. A quick review of the WS site indicates that you were correct in your original u-value calculation of .28, but not the .24 with which you edited. I'm compelled to respond to your post above, because you made some claims regarding the comparison between WS and Marvin, and also mentioned the price difference. There are often very legitimate reasons for price differences, and we have all heard the expression "You get what you pay for". Some of the cost saving approaches used by WS are as follow. 1. Custom WS is a product that contains an aluminum sash with a small section of wood added to the interior side. This might rightfully be considered a wood-clad aluminum window, as opposed to an aluminum-clad wood window, as it is essentially an aluminum window that has been cladded with wood on the interior side (similar concept to the modern craze found in plastic windows with interior wood veneer). In your case, you've invested a lot of money into the maple option, but received far less value in the amount of actual solid wood that might have been found in the Marvin and other reputable aluminum-clad wood windows. I'm rather suprised you didn't see this in your close review of the two different windows. 2. WS essentially offers a 10 year warranty, as the latter half of the 20 years is pro-rated at 50%. Basically, WS trusts that their product will last 10 years, but has agreed to sell you replacement parts (i.e. glass) at a price where they don't incur any expense (i.e. their costs). There are far better warranties available in the clad-wood window industry. 3. WS uses an odd frame design feature to increase their thermal efficiency. Their aluminum frame is stopped short as it returns under and around the sash, thus creating areas where water can infiltrate the wood. History shows that these types of windows experience frame rot, due to water penetration into the exposed wood areas -it doesn't take much of a void for water to find its way into places it's not wanted. The attempt at a corrective action included adding plastic liners over the exposed wood frame areas under the sash, but we all know what happens to plastic parts subjected to long term exterior exposure, not to mention the added seams between dissimilar materials that were created by not simply utilizing a continuous piece of extruded aluminum. There are many clad wood window manufacturers that don't compromise durability for a slight gain in thermal performance, and it may be those windows that will provide a better long-term value. 4. Reviewing WS structural test data shows a product that is inferior to the high end clad-wood windows found in the industry, such as Marvin. Their design pressure ratings aren't as high, the water tests are half as good and their air infiltration is at least 9 times greater than at least a few high-end clad-wood windows. These differences may or may not make the decision to spend 20-30% more on a Marvin window much easier, but the clad-wood window industry includes other manufacturers with all or most of the excellent and valuable features noted above and may be worth a price review. Regardless, windows are such an important component of the building structure that it is not a very good area to "shave costs" in a construction budget. Personally, I'd spend the extra money on windows and figure out other areas to cut some expenses (like window coverings), because I build durable homes and replacing windows is such a disruptive task and a huge expense. I have no affiliation with Marvin or Weathershield, nor do I suggest anything other than using building construction materials that will provide long-lasting durability. This is not only wise from an economic standpoint, but also from a point of environmental sustainability. |
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| Your dislike for WS is clear in your comments and tone of your statements are more of an attack on WS especially when you state that Meremor was correct??. He stated that WS did not follow NFRC for window specificatons when in fact they do. I pointed this out as a false comment and I even gave the link stating otherwise but you glazed right over that.... You then stated that "I made some claims regarding the comparison" When infact all of my compairsons were fact. I stated: a. Kynar finish is std on Marvin not on WS b. Easy care class coating is std on WS not on Marvin (Marvin refers to this as neet glazing). 1. "Custom WS is a product that contains an aluminum sash with a "small section of wood added to the interior side". It is true that the wood crossection is slightly smaller but not as you describe - you make it sound like they are putting a thin paneling or something when in fact both are large sections of solid wood. In the full jamb window I measured in the showroom of a dealer that sells both (including Andersen and Pella) and the measurement is like 1/4" (or slightly larger) on the Marvin casement. You also state that the cross section is different "similar concept to the modern craze found in plastic windows with interior wood veneer". Both are solid wood - not veneer The sales person is not wanting to push any of what he sells - but rather takes the position of eduction of his products and lets us make the decision on cost vs choice. He does feels the Marvin is a better window but also sells the Anderson, Pella and WS and feel they are both a close second - and he noted a very close second. You also state WS uses an odd frame design - but you never note the superior Zo-e 7 glass made by cardinal the same that makes Marvin - or that Cardinal build a plant near WS to make the Zo-e glass (5, 6 and 7 exclusive to WS)... Although my sales person feels Marvin is a slightly overall better window he says Marvin cannot match the specs of the Zo-e-7 neither can Anderson. 2. I edited my U value because, but also failed to note that some of our windows (3 of them) are fixed windows which have the better U value - all of which are Zo-e7 3. When I noted details are in the eye of the beholder it is minor things like how the handle sets down (I liked Marvin better). How the window can be turned to clean the outside I also liked the Marvin better - also the Simulated Divided Light is cleaner in the 45 degree cuts as they blend into the outside frame I also liked better in the Marvin. These all minor but when you are spending $48,200.00 on WS and the Marvin price came in at 65,480.00 you need to make a decision as to how much you will invest in your home and to what degree these differences make to you. I know the WS is much better than what we had which was all wood inside and out that leaked the day our home was built... Your notes about how bad WS on Water in interior wood components and plastic liners?? I done see any plastic liners - sorry. I also live in very dry Colorado so high moisture and rot. Also we have had very high winds (70mph) and rain after our install and there was NO, NONE, ZERO moisture in the jamb or on any of the wood surfaces. |
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| Well, where to begin? I'll start from the back of your response and move towards the top. In regards to the inferior WS warranty, I noted that I was not affiliated with either Marvin or WS, so I simple suggested that there are full, non-prorated warranties available from the high-end window manufacturers in this industry. In my practice, I would not settle for anything less, when they also meet my other demands for durability. If it's not available from Marvin, like it isn't from WS, then there are other manufacturers that provide acceptable warranties. I am unable to verify Marvin's warranty, as their website is currently down or performing very slowly, at the least. In regards to the plastic liners, WS own website mentions the plastic liners on their "Custom" casement windows, so I naturally assumed it is similar to their other clad-wood window lines. This is similar to using a band-aid for a short-term fix, as the water will infiltrate whether you can see it or not. Generally, it is not visible, as it is a hidden deterioration point behind the cladding. I'm not suprised that you didn't see any water. As for your comment on living in "dry" Colorado, this is where we build our custom and very durable homes, in western CO. You should be made aware that CO ranks as number 26 for mold problems in the U.S. -that's 26 out of 50 U.S. States! Therefore, I take issue with your suggestion that CO is a "dry" area, simply because the increased CO sun exposure rapidly dries exposed areas -your window's little nooks and crannies aren't very exposed. On to your next point, I didn't realize that you were specifying "divided lights", as this makes your U-value claim even more inaccurate. The WS website does not even show test data for the Zo-e-shield 7 option with divided lights, so I assume it is not available. If it were, a logical consumer would extrapolate the difference in the data shown for their other glass options. Therefore, a divided light option could add as much as .01 to your u-value claim. Thus, your glass option with divided lights may actually only be .29, but who would know, as it appears to have not yet been tested. Additionally, you mention that your project is in Colorado. I don't believe that there is any location within the boundaries of CO that is below 3700 feet in elevation. Thus, a practical window salesperson would logically install breather or capillary tubes within the specification of any window that is to be installed in Colorado. If your salesperson was "practical", your WS casement windows with Zo-e-shield 7 and capillary tubes would actually have a u-value of .32 or worse (since we don't have data on "Z-7" with divided lights). Thus, your initial comment about meeting the "30/30 requirement", from your original post, is not valid. By the way, there are high-end clad-wood window manufacturers that do meet a .28 u-value for high altitude applications while utilizing their standard triple-pane technology. I could go on in this critique of your response, but I would assume that you've come to the same conclusion as others that are reading this post. If not, you are only refrained by buyer's remorse. As I mentioned in my initial post, I do not specifically have anything against WS, nor do I represent any specific manufacturer. What I do represent is quality building components, and the proper use of them. I take exception to companies that submit faulty products into our building industry, as it only affects all of our welfare. If WS continues to design and build inferior products that are intended to compete with companies that actually build durable, long-lasting products, and at a similar price, then it only subjects the unfortunate consumers to lose faith in the building industry as a whole. What will be your opinion of expensive building products in ten years when your $50K window package has failed? You'll likely accept a disposable product as a replacement, since you've lost confidence in this industry. A couple of final points are as follows. In regards to your correction about the "Meremor" post, you must consider that this person is likely an "average" consumer and was probably purporting the faulty u-values that were indicated by their window salesperson. Also, their post was submitted in 2007, so I highly doubt your efforts to clear the WS name have been successful in 2010. It appears to be an oddity that a homeowner would go to such lengths to justify a product. What is your true agenda? |
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| "Personally, I'd spend the extra money on windows and figure out other areas to cut some expenses (like window coverings), because I build durable homes and replacing windows is such a disruptive task and a huge expense." I agree it is disruptive, but I was wondering what the price range was for the homes that you build? Which might help me understand your position of spending the extra money without reguard to cost. Your comment above comes from the positon of starting from scratch ie. "New Home". For us since we already had the high end window coverings and invested $18,000 in 1998 dollars we wanted to reuse them as they are very nice and in new condition - to trash them and start over would be a huge cost in todays dollars in addition to the new window costs. We had quotes of a little north of $26,000.00 to get equivlent coverings and have them designed as outside mount.. but then there was upgrades to consider which would even cost more... |
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| MCSBLDR You are very incorrect in many of your comments and you do not have 100% knowledge of the window industry just because you build homes - also I doubt very much that you have an engineering background. You may have strong educated building experience that serves you well in your business but it may not apply to everyone. We are happy with our Weathershield window choice and I have done detailed research far beyond the average person or the average home builder. First you comment about WS having a thin wood interior is inaccurate as it is in reference to a previous design prior to mid-2008 and in no way does that design compare to WS current Custom Shield design. My sales person who I spoke with today (making a special trip to their showroom to inspect the cross sections again) pulled a cross section out of the back and said this is what that guy must be talking about - its an old design and has nothing to do with what we have in our home or what WS sells today. Second I have been in contact with WS Design and Test department in the last 4-months and I have both the stickers from the windows and a signed document from WS test and verification department detailing that our windows are indeed have a .28 U and .18 SHGC, and that applies to the SDL without spacer bars (not True Divided Light or SDL with spacer bars) as you indicate - this is a total different product. With SDL there is nothing in the glass to change the air space and having the SDL does not have any effect on the glass period - U values or SHGC - so you are incorrect in your claims here as well. Our windows do indeed meet the 30/30 so again you are incorrect. If your arguement is that WS is cheating in some way or falsifying their numbers I would challange your knowledge of the testing and verification procedures used at both at WS and Marvin. Third WS does Certify their windows in the Denver Metro area without breather or capillary tubes as does Marvin using gas fill. Marvin will evaluate this upon order and verify the Altitude of the install and if it is below 6200 feet they will approve the order - above they simply do not put gas between the glass panes. With the current frame designs tubes are not required in the Denver area. You say you build durable homes, are you a RESNET or LEED certified builder? |
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- Posted by lyndaTurner(lyndarconfused@hotmail.com) onFri, Mar 18, 11 at 22:19
| We had Weather Shield casement windows installed in our house when we built it 12 years ago, spending almost $40,000.00. We had trouble within the first year with many of the opening mechanisms, resulting in not being able to open 6 windows at all. We had the company rep that we bought them from and also a rep from Weather Shield come out and the windows still do not work. About 2 years ago we noticed that a number of the windows were showing discoloration, stains and moisture on the inside of the glass. Again we contacted the rep and were told the warranty was only for 10 years and they would pay only half of the price of new windows and no installation, so in essence they want us to pay another $20,000.00 plus installation for windows that they obviously know are going to last about 10 years when the warranty runs out. The company we bought them from said they have had a number of complaints about the Weather Shield windows, of course that doesn't"t help with the damage or look of our windows. I would never recommend these windows to anyone. |
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- Posted by rich berry(marinangelaq@verizon.net) onSat, Jun 4, 11 at 20:26
| my weathershield casement windows are 17 years old. we have had numerous problems with water leaking through the windows. Most of the problems are from the outer sills rotting from water intrusion. My windows are extruded aluminum but the outer sills are only wood and not covered with aluminum. Maybe the new windows sills are coverd with aluminum. The other problem is there is no way to adjust the windows so if it is not perfectly square you cant compensate for it. The argon glass has held up wery well and we only have one window with a problem with the glass over all of the years. |
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- Posted by WeatherShield (My Page) on Mon, Jun 20, 11 at 14:37
| Rich, we have some service solutions we might be able to provide you. If you would, please send your contact information to wscares@weathershield.com and a member of our service team will be in contact with you. |
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- Posted by Matt(thematty13@yahoo.com) onFri, Jun 24, 11 at 14:49
| weather shield is junk all new vinal window last year and had to call a service guy out to fix a problem not a big deal then the guy cam and said he would order a part and it will be here next week its been over 2 months no call nothing im wondering if i should contact the BBB and i live in Ladysmith where they make them please stay away from these guys they get your money and then there gone you were warned |
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- Posted by E P(paulsfam03@yahoo.com) onSun, Jul 24, 11 at 10:48
| just got done cusssing two more broken hardware pieces on dh vision 2000 been breaking since one year old. apparently lifetime warrenty means I buy the parts, i do the labor.My windows are good but the hardware is junk. The customer service is a joke. |
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| They stink! Do not use Weathershield. I have 10 weathershield wood windows. They stick, split, jam, and have been that way since early on. They will not stick by the warranty, or rather they stick to the letter of the warranty with no flexability. Mine also leak in heavy rains. I had proof that the window had manufacturing flaws at installation, but did not report it in a timely manner. I thought it was another problem. When I did report the problem, I was told that it was no longer covered and I should have reported it earlier. The damage was hidden, but obviously there from the install. They are not a very good company to deal with. I am a wholesale distributor and represent over 100's of manufacturer. I know what a quality manufacture will do to protect it's reputation. This is NOT a quality manufacturer. |
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| Run, don't walk, away from Weathershield. We're now at 50% failure of the seals on the windows. Many of them failed during "warranty" but they took so long to process the claims, we fell out of warranty. And frankly, they charge so much for their warranty glass you're better off buying a better replacement locally. Other issues - windows that don't open easily, rotting seals, rot issues and the worst customer service you can imagine. Ask a question, they punt you to local dealers who hate their guts. |
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