From my experience I do not think you will have any issues, as you said you googled this and your correct metal sill pans have been made and used for years and if not for the "green" aspect and EPA/DEC rules, aluminum, lead coated copper and such metal materials would still be used for this year and many more to come.

Millworkman, this morning it was very cold, low 40s and the pan was cold to the touch under the window. In the dead of winter here, won't this thing ice up and conduct like a heat sink? Here's a photo. I have a call to Marvin (not open yet) and the installer.

This is a replacement window in brick vineer. The metal pan extends up the sides of the jam and out on to the limestone sill with an opening to let any water that may accumulate drain to the exterior.

This is inside, and what will be behind the trim.

{{!gwi}}

Ok I heard from Marvin, the installer and the head carpenter and they have all assured me that there is no problem, the window isn't sitting flush in the pan, the metal isn't going to condense once protected and covered by the trim. I will be happy when this is done.

I think most folks would be absolutely delighted that the crew was installing proper sill pans...

I don't have an issue with them installing the pans. I had an issue with how they were being installed.

I should add they also installed aluminum header pans (or whatever you call them) above the windows. Finally no more worries about leaks!

They are called drip caps.

I have the same situation. My windows have JUST been installed today. Sill pan is metal (don't know what kind) and it is about 5 degrees C outside and it is a bit humid inside due to drywall mudding and whatnot. The condensation is pouring off of the exposed 1/2" of the sill pan rear dam.

Is this going to be an issue or will it get better after the outside of the windows are trimmed out and the inside has a wooden sill attached?

Is there a step coming up that will resolve this or should I ask the contractor to use a material that doesn't conduct heat as much?

A quick response is GREATLY appreciated since he'll be putting the wooden trim and wooden sills on tomorrow.

no problem at all. aluminum sill pans are very effective and have been used for years. the window usually sits on a shim and not directly on the aluminum anyway. we also insulated the sill with foam insulation.

Is the window air sealed with foam?

Can you post up a picture from inside and outside?

Here's a pic of the sill pan the contractor installed. This is the inside portion. It is peel-n-stick'ed to the inside of the window frame and you can see it sitting on the vapor barrier of the window sill there. This is in a basement so the window sill is actually very thick. The window is currently just tacked in place and is not sealed completely yet. Will the window sealing help this at all?

Picture of the outside would help.

One of the few places I can think of teat plastic would actually be useful.

The problem is it cannot be easily bent on site.

you would need thin plastic sheet that could be heated and bent as needed.

11 years later, i am having the exact same problem. I have a lot of humidity in the house, and maybe this is why, but i have Anderson E series windows with the aluminum cladding on the outside, and NOW, i am afraid of a problem, because they did not set the door on any wooden shims, so there is no break between the lead coated copper pans, and the aluminum cladding. Should I proceed to allow the solid oak flooring to be installed? Or should i pull out the door and re-install. The wet subfloor has been going on for weeks. This is on long island and today is March 4th, 2022!!!

Humidity is controllable. The key is ventilation which is difficult in winter.

Here are some tips: get something at HD, Lowe's. or local hardware called a humidity meter. Google what your humidity should be in your area and follow that as a guide.

Use fans in the bathrooms when showering, bathing and cooking year-round.

Open your windows and doors (weather permitting) and let your house breath! There are other tips on-line.

Remember: humidity is not a result of your windows, sill pans or anything related to them. It is caused by humans living in their homes for the most part. Good luck!

I would make the sub floor is dry enough and not damaged. The wood flooring needs dry enough as well, ambient temps and the Humidity level in house need to be at the right levels also.

Is the door showing visable condensation?

This is a huge nine foot wide by nine foot high door. It has three, three foot sections, all mulled together, with the operative section/door in the middle. Only the LCC pan, the metal part of the pan, that shows inside the house, is ice cold. Immediately below the corner of this metal pan, i can see the subfloor is wet, for about 1/2 inch, running along the entire 9 feet of the pan (but this only occurs when it's 40 degrees outside, or colder. The colder it is outside, the bigger the problem). I also learned that the installer should only run a thin bead of silicone inside the very same corner, alluded to above. This prevents water from getting in, under the door, into the house. But my installer spread the silicone on the pan, the entire middle of the nine foot door, maybe one inch wide, which is bad. This is bad because the water that forms from condensation, cannot flow back outside, and so the wooden base of my door is sitting in a wet pan. I also know that he did not set the door on 1/16th inch "shims", so the aluminum on the outside of the door is touching the LCC metal pan. This causes more condensation. Monday, I put the last trim piece, outside, along the entire nine feet, along the bottom of the door, hoping that this would help, but it is snowing today, and the condensation has returned on the inside sub-floor. So this did not help. Maybe i should re-install the doors with plastic pre-purchased pans. But i would prefer to just assume the problem will go away. This would be a huge project. The house is humid inside because of drywall, tiling, etc. The doors are Andersen E series (previously the "Eagle" company). I would be so grateful for advice, or for some "expert" who i could turn to.