Sorry to hijack this thread, but by "shades" did you mean cellular shades?

And have you researched llumar or vista films?

Thanks!

Redwood you've done a lot of research it looks like. Your missing some very important information though. Most manufacturers have windows that are made for different climates of our Nation. If you look at any "Energy Star" label it will have the different climates shown on a little map of the US. Depending on the zone your in will determine the low-emitance (low-e) coating that will be applied to your glass. There are three coatings that will determine the heat allowed to enter past your glass. The Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) tells you how well the product blocks heat caused by sunlight. The lower the SHGC, the less solar heat the window lets in.

High Solar Gain Low-E - These coatings allow as much heat from the sun to enter the house as clear glass. High solar gain coatings offer the greatest energy savings in regions with cool summers and very cold winters. Northern Climate Zone

Moderate Solar Gain Low-E - These coatings screen a portion of the sun's heat, keeping the home cooler in summer but admitting a good amount of solar heat in winter. Moderate solar gain Low-E coatings offer the greatest energy savings in regions with moderately hot summers and cold winters. Central Climate Zone

Low Solar Gain Low-E - These coatings screen the most heat from the sun. Low solar gain Low-E coatings offer the greatest energy savings in regions with very hot summers and either cold or mild winters (the ENERGY STAR South/Central and Southern Climate Zones). By blocking ultraviolet radiation, these coatings also reduce fading of furniture, floor coverings, artwork, and window treatments. Southern Climate Zone

You must also consider the gasses & spacers used in the Insulated Glass Unit (IGU). The gases & spacers will add even more protection to the inside of your home. Make sure you have windows that match your climate zone before you buy them.

You must also check and see if your window manufacturer will allow any films to be applied to your window. In most cases any after market films will void any warranty you have on any window. On a personal note I would recommend you contact the window supplier and find out the cost of glass replacement with lo/e. You can replace the glass only on each window for a reasonable price in most cases. I'd also go after the builder if they still exist in any way. They're cost cutting tactics used to save them money is an extreme burden or hardship on you and your family. You may also want to check your states building code and find out if lo/e glass is mandatory. If so, you can go after the supplier to make the corrections. They should have known better before they ordered any windows. Hopefully some of this will get you resolution. Good Luck!!!

I diy'd 70% heat rejection film from homeDepop - gilafilms.com . Certainly can see where someone might put a score or scratch a line on the glass cutting in the film. Which would think would make a weak spot on that glass.

That aside,,, Its Great Stuff. Wow'd me.

Not at all like 100% mirror bronze film I put on in the 80's which got hot on the film surface making me wonder if radiated heat might be more than the rejection of sun light. This stuff stays cool to the touch & up close face touchy/feely. Not a wiff of heat.

Think about $35 for 3'x 25' roll & bout $40 for four foot wide.

mikie,

On my llumar film samples it says nothing about heat rejection. Is that the same thing as solar absorption
or solar energy rejected?

Thanks!

Heck if i know.. Heat Absorbtion ,, Sounds like vynal film? - to me heat absorbtion sounds like the film is going to get hot , which means its going to radiate that absorbed heat into the room. heh, some radiates away on the outside of the window too.

If you dig through the gilafilms.com you'll find all their specs - I just now Looked under Support and there is a link to their way of telling specs.

I was mostly interested in the true SHGC (.22) and Light transmission - I did want somewhat darkening , that I could live with. This is darkening just about the right levels here. Truely is amazing to me how well this gila film really does work with the heat.

Initially, Given the choice I would have gladly bought 3m's heat rejection film in the extra thick version for the proported more shatter resistance even though its actually probably too dark(about 12-15% transmission), but 3m isnt available to the diy'r - 3m is missing the boat and doing the consumer screw u and your hurricane. Their installers dont want to sell it for diy.
I probably will never buy another 3m product after trying to buy some film. Don't think I'd trust any of those guys in my home now, even if it was dirt cheap.

If you really want to diminish the radiant heat entering your window, you can block the window completely from the outside. (What I'm talking about here is great if you don't care what the windows look like from the outside and if you don't want see out of the windows for a few months.) Last year I took several large size peices of thick cardboard, painted them white, and slipped them between the window and the screen. This blocked/reflected 100% of all sunlight and radiat heat and it was inexpensive. The cardboard held up through the three months of the most intense heat of the Mississippi summer, and my AC was grateful. If you block the light and heat from even touching the panes of your windows, it doesn't get inside. Sounds goofy? Well, it is. But it works. And it's cheap.