That is an interesting question and I don't know that I have ever seen a rating system for the products that you have described...

You might informally contact a local test lab that certifies hurricane products and get their opinion...although I suspect that they would be very hesitant to give it due to possible conflict of interest.

Maybe take a few of the tech's out for a few beers and find out?

" Will probably involve deforming zinc-lead-antimony type anchors."

Thgese type of anchors are the weakest for masonry.
Steel wedge type anchors are the strongest (they are used to attach guard rails if threaded studs have not been set).
There are a number of manufacturers.

Here is a link that might be useful: wedge anchors

oberon, actually I do see several products with test strength tables provided, and in some cases certified by independent entities (ASTM, ASCE, etc.)... but that's less than half the time. Guess I need to find a heavy-duty pull-scale, put the truck in 4WD-low, and try to pull one out, LOL.

brick, thanks for the link. "Thunderstud", now there's a name for your boat, LOL! Those look great, but they go DEEP. The fundamental problem with CBS walls is most of the time you're over a hollow space, with only the wall thickness of the cinder block (1.25-1.50"), and maybe .50-.75" of non-structural stucco coating to work with. Getting custom-sized panels, so I'm always over the poured sills, headers, etc. is just not an option.

Also not clear whether Thunderstuds are weather proof enough. That's a definite virtue of the lead-zinc-brass systems, they're not degraded by rain and humidity. More research needed. Got some time, no storms yet.

The main type being pushed high and low in So-Fla is this sleeve-cone "machine screw" type--LINKED BELOW--tapped into a 1/2" dia. hole, and rated for approx. 1300-2300 lbs. each... I guess 4(*) of these holding down each 12" wide panel is supposed to do the job. On the taller panels over bigger windows, you still have the same amount. (* I say 4 because only the middle 2 are dedicated to that panel, while the 4 corners are shared with the adjacent panels, hence 4 halves and 2 whole = 4, or 5* on the end panels. ;')

Here is a link that might be useful: Light-to-Medium duty... hmmm...

Look around the site above. They have a number of different anchor types, including the ones you posted above.
I much prefer the sleeve type anchors, and the link below is for one designed for block.
Anchors designed for concrete do not always work well in block, so read the listing and manufacturer's sheets carefully.

Here is a link that might be useful: block anchor

Thanks brick... that site keeps popping to the top of Google...

That block (concrete sleeve) anchor you point to might be the ticket, especially since I'm now going with the track+sill system to hold the panels, instead of machine-screwing them directly to the wall. The sleeve type will expand without being bottomed out in the hole... But the oval cutouts make it look like the expansion might take place too close to the surface, i.e. in the stucco instead of the block...? hmmm... need to get my hands on some for a look-see.

Perhaps the Thunderstud, in the correct length, is the way to go after all... might have to spring for galvanized... or stainless... OOPS, forgot, not rated for BLOCK... might be too powerful and CRACK block??

Yep, Tapcon-XL's for headers and rails, and Tapcon-SG's for direct mount (e.g. over fake brick, where rails would look goofy and not seat well). These 2 newer types don't have the hi-lo threads, but instead ALL high, with just very small relief notches. This gives them PHENOMENAL pull-out strength in hollow block--OVER TWICE the strength of standard Tapcons! Even STRONGER THAN SLEEVE ANCHORS, and WAY cheaper! Sign me up!

The savings in cost and LABOR (when doin' it yourself!) is not to be ignored either. Plus this new White Ultragard coating is nearly impervious to rust, and color matches the rails and walls.

Progress marches on.