Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
cpate_gw

Help! Need advice ASAP re sill pans and window sealant

cpate
15 years ago

My builder is in the process of sealing up various holes to the exterior prior to installing insulation in the walls. His guys are using that spray stuff that foams up and then hardens. He calls it "polyseal."

I think the guys are trying to do a good job with the sealant b/c I've been so picky about previous steps in the build. However, yesterday I noticed that they have put polyseal into the spaces between the bottoms of my Jeld-wen aluminum-clad wood windows and the sill pans that are beneath the windows themselves.

I thought this space was supposed to be left open so that if any water penetrates the window, it will drains down to the sloped sill pan and then out to the exterior. They sprayed the polyseal from the inside of the house and the only way you can see it is to get down to the sill pan level and look over the top of the turned up back dam of the sill pan and under the window. Basically, they appear to have dammed up the space that was supposed to allow water to get out of the house.

You should know that when my builder started installing my windows, I noticed that he was not using sill pans (nor otherwise appropriately flashing the windows). He insisted that no one in my area used sill pans and that there was more than one way to flash a window. Unfortunately what he was doing didn't meet the standards of any method of flashing that I could find info on anywhere.... Just one of many fights we have had along the way.

I pointed out that the window manufacturer's installation instructions specifically said to use sill pans and that my contract required him to follow the manufacturer's installation instructions for all manufactured parts unless I agreed in writing to an alternate installation procedure. (When I insisted on the clause, I was just trying to make sure that if manufacturer's warranties were voided by incorrect installation, my builder would be in breach of contract and therefore liable for any damages that the manufacturer wouldn't cover.) But, on the basis of that, my builder gave in and used sill pans and flashed the windows according to instructions from Tyvek and Jeld-wen.

At that point I was happy with the window installation and fairly confident I wouldn't have mold issues sometime down the line. But now it wouldn't surprise me if the workers he has doing the polysealing don't have a clue how to polyseal where there is a sill pan and are ruining an otherwise good installation.

Problem is, I can't seem to find anything that talks about exactly HOW to seal around windows. So maybe this is not a problem but I want to find out before they put sheetrock on and cover up the situation.

Not sure whether the explanation above makes sense and I didn't have my camera with me yesterday so I've tried to make a sketch showing what was done. Can anyone here tell me if this really the problem that I THINK it is and, if so, what can be done about it.



I'm thinking that they probably should have put only just enough sealant at the interior edge of the sill pan to stop air infiltration. Something like this...


Any advice would be much appreciated.

Comments (7)

  • cpate
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I already know what I'm dealing with in my builder. Unfortunately my banker basically refused to allow me to fire him months and months ago when I first became fully aware that he really knew less about building a house than I do. Banker was concerned that if I fired him we would wind up in litigation and the house would never get finished. Since then I've been trying to make sure things get done right but then he pulls another stupid trick (like this one) that it never occurred to me to warn him against doing before he could do it.

    Question now is: Will the windows all need to be removed so the sill plates can be cleaned out? That would probably involve removing and replacing all the Hardie trim around the windows which as already been painted. Anyone know if it might be possible to reach in with something like a dental tool and break up and remove all that polyseal?

  • ibwindows
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would think a large kitchen knife would do just fine at this point. Any water will want to drain out where ever it can.... just need to break any seal.

  • aquaverde
    8 years ago

    Very interesting post. I'm dealing with the same issue now on our new house construction. Only, it appears my builder didn't install a sill pan at all. What did you decide to do? Did you resolve this problem?

  • PRO
    Windows on Washington Ltd
    8 years ago

    What window was installed? Spray foam across the back will help with wind driven/pressurized rain.


  • PRO
    East Bay 10
    8 years ago

    Pans are not always needed. I am a big advocate of always panning doors but windows only if they are in high exposure areas. I am using the term "pan" as it refers to a prefabricated pan (usually metal, sometimes copper) with an upturned back dam. An easily made "soft" pan from Tyvek Straight Flash or Barricade Conform should be used under all windows with a back dam created from a compatible sealant so water doesn't blow back to the interior and is allowed to weep to the exterior. I agree with a statement in this thread that there are many ways to properly flash a window and door but there are also many ways to not properly flash a window. I am glad that many homeowners are getting more educated on proper installation or "best practices" but remember to cut the builder some slack as not everything is cut and dried.


  • aquaverde
    8 years ago

    Kolbe windows installed. There is no hard or soft sill pan installed. I'm defining "soft pan" as a peel and stick membrane on the sill. I have just JumboTex paper on top of Tyvek both folded back underneath (and on the sides) of the widows. No back dam. Thanks!

Sponsored
RTS Home Solutions
Average rating: 5 out of 5 stars3 Reviews
BIA of Central Ohio Award Winning Contractor