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What kind would fit this? [pic]

Posted by trentdk (My Page) on
Tue, Jan 25, 11 at 13:46

I'm just starting my quest for replacement windows (I want to do it myself), but my setup seems to be different from most of the windows I see offered (on the internet, or at the inventory at Lowes). I'm not worried about the width or height of my windows, but the depth. Do I try to find replacements that are this thin? Or do I remove all that interior trim?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: What kind would fit this? [pic]

Can't really tell much from that picture of only 1 corner.

How about 1 of the entire unit and a shot from outside.


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RE: What kind would fit this? [pic]

If you have stucco on the exterior and your windows don't leak you could go with a z-bar window. It has an exterior fin, you caulk it and screw it in, do some interior trim work and your done. I did my house in one day 10 years ago as a stop gap with my cheap aluminum windows until I could afford better new construction windows.


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RE: What kind would fit this? [pic]

If I read the picture right, the window jamb has been extended to the inside to meet the 4 9/16 wall.

If that's the case, you have two or three options. I can not see the outside, if it has a "back band" trim, i.e., the siding is not butted against the windows: you are in a little bit of luck. If it has back banding you can remove it and then very easily remove the old window by gaining full access to the nail fin. If you do not have back banding or vinyl siding (If it's vinyl, you can "zip off" the vinyl to gain access to the nail fin), then you are going to have a difficult removal because you are going to have to remove the glass from the unit and then sawzall out the mainframe...ugggh!

After removal of the window you could:
* install the window inside of the inside casing. (I don't like this) and then fabricate an outside trim package to cover the approximate whole you will create on the outside.
* remove all inside casing and inside trim, then install the new window and then rip down the old casing to fit the new window depth. (I like this option the best)
*after removal of the window you could scribe a line on the old inside casing and then use a skill saw to rip down the casing while the casing is still in the whole. This would leave a rather rough saw-line in the inside which could be finished with a latex paintable caulk on the inside to cover the imperfect saw line. (I don't like this approach either, but I've seen it done.)

I like the middle option the best. It's really the best way and it's not a difficult as it may look. Done it a few times myself.


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