Boronia megastigma is impossible to find i have searched all over europe usa and Australia no one has it and if they do they are not willing to ship. Aglaia Odorata and Cestrum nocturnum can be found at http://www.pflanzenkindergarten.de/ you might need to translate as you do not say where you are from plus you can try hibiscus3951 on ebay. You really should be able to find Cestrum in most places to be honest hope that helps

Excellent news! The Dutch dealer is going to know a lot more about what you can get there, and what installation requirements you'll have, than any of us in North America. It sounds like he has great selection of the higher end ranges. And if he has used ones, you might actually get to see them in person. You didn't say if he has a showroom, but if he doesn't, he has to have the used ones somewhere, and you might get him to let you in the warehouse. :) And you can look up the specs online. I do know some about many of the brands you mentioned, but from spec sheets or second hand. The ones I'm familiar with are residential models. Even Wolf, nowadays, only sells fully residential models with closed burners, et al., rather than the one foot in residential, one in commercial that they used to be known for. I don't know if any of them would let you go back to the cooking style you had with your Garland. Have you tried induction? It's a total 180 from what you said you wanted, but a great choice where electricity is plentiful and fairly cheap. I have both induction and gas and rarely bother with the gas. The cookware matters more with induction--it not only has to be induction ready (stainless steel, steel or cast iron), but you can notice the cooking difference between pans more, since it's the pan that's doing the cooking, not the "burner" (which doesn't burn, so we call them elements, rings, or hobs). The other day, I was searing lean burgers in a Demeyere multiply stainless pan. I didn't want scorch them, so only put it up to number 7.5 on an 1800W element. Beautiful caramelization! Lots of power to spare. Anyway, it's an alternative that many are choosing. I have a couple of gas burners I rarely use because I like the induction so well. Gaggenau oven and combi-steam. Lots of utility. And no pilot lights, though maybe Summers aren't hot where you live. :) As to the rest, go to the manufacturer's websites for all the lines that the appliance guy carries and see if there's any thing that suits you, make lists of questions about any that do, and take them with you when you go. If nothing suits your fancy, go anyway, bring sweets, and chat up the guy for all he's worth. He might know of a range that's meant for a small cafe or something that wouldn't be a firetrap if installed in a residence.

curiousshopper, the W4840's max temp of 158F is well short of anybody's idea of a "boil wash". I use temps of 122F and higher mainly for linens, towels, and underwear. Yes, I do wash housecleaning rags at 158F. Stands to reason that housecleaning will be more effective if you start out with clean rags. On occasion I have washed badly stained or soiled regular clothes, and printed T-shirts, at 140F or 158F. They might not stand repeated washing like that, but a one-time treatment can yield amazing results. Like, my college-age son handled me a T-shirt he had worn for bicycling and for high-school wrestling. It was, umm, pretty gross. A long hot wash with detergent and oxygen bleach restored it to respectable condition, far better than you'd get from any amount of soaking in a sink or an agitator TL. When using hot temperatures you do have to be careful about colorfastness. Made the mistake of washing white and green all-cotton bathmats together at 158F. They came out quite clean, but the white one wasn't white anymore. I was able to whiten it again with chlorine bleach; if it happened now, I would try oxygen bleach instead.

Sorry, missed the questions (and the compliments, thanks!) Pleased with the outcome, but that is a job I shall not likely tackle again in this lifetime. Well, maybe wait a few more years and I might change my tune... Pardon the length, I have answered your questions and also point out mistakes I made, so you won't make the same, not worth it ; ) I did this job (all twelve days of it) in a state of total burnout and aching muscles from repainting the entire house, and staining/poly coating stairs/railing that DH had installed after he installed our hardwood floors. House was in total disarray. It's been 2 years I still find things in boxes I didn't know I had. So a job like cabinets in that frame of mind led me to mistakes and shortcuts and I knew better. Weariness clouded my judgment. So if you're doing an overhaul, save the a cabinet job for when it is your sole focus and you've got lots of stamina. First, clean well. Really well. Think of the years of built up oil-based polishes, airborne stuff from cooking, etc. Oils absorb into woods, and a half-hearted wipe with a rag and Dirtex doesn't cut it. My first mistake, should have scrubbed the dickens out of them with Dirtex and #0000 steel wool. Second mistake: I did not scuff sand to get even more gunk off outer surface of wood and prepare for better adhesion of primer/paint. Third mistake: I did not use oil-based primer. I love Bullseye 123, has served me well on all types of jobs. But because of mistakes 1 and 2 above, an oil-based primer probably would have covered my tracks. I have a couple chips here and there where something has bumped the paint, the tiny chips go right down to the old finish. That tells me my primer is not adhering well which tells me my prep was too lame. (I am not in any frame of mind to tackle fixing this at the moment, but will be forced to this year, so plan to turn to Michael for his infinite wisdom if he's willing ;) The reason I know I failed in several areas with prep on the cabs is because the interior room doors pictured above (new and pre-primed) are still pristine. No pin head size chips, nada. bud_wi, my hinges were a nightmare. Somehow, we got The Most Unique Hinges Known To Mankind. I shopped everywhere for replacements, none to be found (even online). I could easily have replaced them with like kind by myself (stick to the existing holes, go easy with the drill so screws don't strip). However, I did not want to remove and replace with a totally new style, which as Michael suggests is best choice (and I agree). The reason I did not switch hinge styles is because it would involve a bit more work and DH's participation. He was equally burned out, and my request to add yet another job would have been met with his favored 'have you lost your mind' look. Now I am married to one of the handiest guys, and he is a perfectionist. Trick is to get him motivated. Because he is also the last great procrastinator. So when he's burned out but says 'I'll get to it next weekend', that means I could be facing months and months of cabinets with no doors. Couldn't bear the thought. So I painted 'em. Mistake number four (I am up to four now, right?). Two years, four months later hinges are flaking (I primed with Bulsseye 123 first) primarily where hinges rub. That really accelerated just in very recent past to where it's noticeable, and will only get worse. I cannot put off addressing this development much longer, as old brass peeking through bright white is not attractive. Oddly enough, back when I was doing this job, someone suggested auto touch up paint. (Comes in a 3" tall bottle ala nail polish.) Unfortunately, I had already painted all but a few hinges when I got that tip. The hinges with auto touch up paint (in a white I picked that closely matched CC) are holding up well. For now. For anyone who needs to remove paint from hinges, I just saw a tip on This Old House: get a cheapy crock pot (not ever meant for food), put water in, turn it on low, let hinges soak for 12 hours (or overnight) and paint will fall off in a big glob. (Not sure if that applies to oil-based.) Whether I go that route and buff them out (I don't like brass) or ask DH for new is a nasty toss up. Replacing our deck is pending this spring, so for new hinges I might as well ask him to hang the moon ;) I left the doors up. I did not paint the insides of the cabinets (good condition = no need). I used a Purdy XL Dale 1 1/2' angle brush (my favorite) for tight nooks, small areas. I applied paint to doors with a 4" foam roller (speedier and better control) and followed up with a final single stroke, top to bottom, with a half-loaded brush (Purdy XL Dale 3" flat). I say half-loaded because fully loaded brush with CC would only create excess paint which then runs everywhere as it seeks it's level. Dry would drag through existing paint leaving a gummy trail. So half loaded pulls out any bubbles from the foam roller, keeps the work surface sufficiently wet but not drowning in paint, and paint will then level well. Learn from my mistakes, so that you do not stand in your kitchen 2 1/2 years from now and see what I am beginning to see.