Here are some instructions that I collected over the last few years. I never used them as I had mine made but they may be helpful Diane ======================================== Once you take your measurements for the overall size of the screen frame, cut the frame pieces to length. I'd use 3/4" wide X 1/2" thick stock. Then cut a 1/4" wide by 5/16" deep groove (rabbit) on the inside edge on a router table. Assemble the frame with glue and finish nails. Then measure the inside, including the rabbit groove. Cut your screen material so that the edges fit inside the rabbit joint. Then cut some 1/4" thick 1/4 round molding to fit the inside of the frame and attach it with small brad nails. This will sandwich the screen material in the frame. Then just mask the screen, paint the frames, and hang them. This is a very simple screen, nothing fancy. When I was a kid my Grandfather made replacement screens like this whenever one would break ======================================== To make your own wood screens isn't too difficult but you do need some basic carpentry skills, or like a lot of us you will learn them as you go. First problem is obtaining the correct thickness materials for the frames so they match the existing and/or give you the correct look. The existing screens are probably close to 7/8 to 1 inch thick. The most common stock available at a reasonable cost is only 3/4 inch thick. The extra thickness makes it easier to join together and big difference in the overall strength of the frame. Then you have the widths of the pieces. The sides and top are probably 1-3/4 to 2 inches wide. The bottom that is cut at an angle to match the sill is probably around 3-1/2 to 4 inches wide. To get the matching materials it will cost more, and if don't have access to a table saw will need to have it cut to size. You can make the frame out of 3/4 inch thick stock but I found they were too flimsy on my larger double hung windows. I was taught to make them using a lay out table made out of 1/2 to 3/4 inch plywood that is braced on the bottom with 2 x 4's to keep the top true & flat. This is important. Your table/bench must be a flat surface otherwise your frames will not come out flat. The lay out table is a bit larger than the largest frame to be made. I place the table on saw horses. To join the four corners together I now use the BeadLOCK loose tenon joinery system. http://www.beadlock.com/. It's very strong and you don't need the tools or skills required to do traditional tenon joinery. All you need is a good hand drill and drill bit. The instructions are easy to follow. On the lay out table I screw down two boards in an "L" that are at a true 90 degree. Those are the two boards you clamp the screen bottom and one side to. If those two are square the other two will follow. ========================================

I had a bathroom project a while ago, I took up the laminate and put down tile. After the laminate came up, the whole floor was covered with the glue they use when laying it, it was like hard plastic. I had at the time researched some ways/products to use and came up with KRUD KUTTER, I know you can get it at either Home D or Lowes and I think you can even now get it at Wally world. I used it full strength, poured it on, left it (dont remember how long) came back with a putty knife and it was all gooey and soft, came right up.. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. another example of what I've used it for. I had a perpetual haze on my laminate wood floors (most likely from a build up of cleaning products etc. caught one cleaning lady using mop and glow on it, ugh) anyway, it would never stay shiny and clean looking. I had tried several things and finally tried the KK, again, full stength but I didn't leave it very long. came back with a plastic spatula/turner and literally scarped off a yellow film. It did not appear to hurt my floors, and the haze was forever gone, (now I only use vinegar and water). Might be worth a try? Well, I dont know if it can hurt to try it, Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with this product and have no information on how it might work or affect your floors :) I think it's a great product with many uses and just thought I'd mention it.

"I've had good luck with it." You do understand that there is likely aluminum oxides present on the glass? It is one of the hardest abrasives you can have, and wilt scratch the glass horribly while you try to polish it off with a very soft abrasive. One of the rules of polishing anything is to make sure ALL the previous abrasive has been removed beofre going to the next grade.

You would need to remove the exterior glazing beads in order to remove the glass. The glazing beads degrade with age and could very likely break. You can get new ones from Andersen, if need be. The plastic plugs on the interior of the sash are for interior grilles to fit onto the sash.