Depends on how new or old the wood shark is. I don't like the clutch setup on the new ones. a big lump of plastic surrounds the clutch disk. If you not careful you heat it up too much when it gets plugged up and not oiling right. now it starts to melt the plastic and lock up the clutch drum. My early 2000 model does not have this type of clutch setup and I have cut a many of stumps out with it. The is nothing harder on saws than cutting stumps out in and tic tac toe pattern and popping them out with a sludge hammer. Mine still runs and looks like new, and cuts pretty good also, nothing like my 345, but I only gave 69 bucks new at wally world for my 14"er

Quote; The feeling I get is that some plumbers don't recommend them as they feel it is work taken from them" It would seem that some ppl think plumbers and tradesmen of all varieties just sit around the shop and wait for the phone to ring so they can jump in the truck and come running like a firemen. Tradesmen cannot afford to have ppl sitting around for even a few minutes and our work is generally scheduled months in advance. The truth of the matter is that most of the plumbers I know don't even want your medial 10 minute job that could have been done as a DIY project or done by a local handyman. Secondly, code prohibits just cutting and capping those lines. Code does not permit any dead end lines longer than 12" so if you plan to discontinue the use of the line you need to trace back to where it ties into the main run and cut at cap it at that point. You stated that you were unable to solder the line because of standing water or steam in the line. The solution: if there is standing water in the line, drain the line, and if in doing so you have to drain the entire house system, then that is just what you have to do. Now in regards to sharkbite fittings....You are correct that sharkbite fitting are new to the industry and there remains a reluctance to using them, but that reluctance is not because they are new. It is because soldering is just too easy and too cheap to mess with expensive fittings. In addition, sharkbite fittings are only marginally accepted by some local residential codes and even then they are generally not to be used in a concealed location. I would suggest you drain the line and leave a couple faucetts open to vent off any steam pressure that might develope from residual water. Next, cut the copper and clean it thorougly with emery cloth, then wipe the dust off with a clean dry rag and do not touch the clean surface with your finger. Apply flux with a clean flux brush then put a cap on and apply the heat to the cap just until you see the flux begin to bubble. Pull the heat away and apply solder and you should have it sealed. Believe me, a child can do it.

I have had my shark steam mop for years but I don't use it much anymore since my cleaning lady doesn't use it. I will occasionally use it to clean up between her cleanings. I have never seen those issues with mine. It might be the linoleum is wearing down from the years of use. It does have a top coat layer and I bet yours has begun to wear through it. Might be time to replace it. You might try putting on one of those linoleum specific products that add shine back to dull floors.

We have engineered hardwood floors. Mine are the lightest color I could find because our dog has white fur. Keep that in mind when choosing a dark floor. It can show dirt and footprints as much as a light floor. You might consider something with a mix of colors. As for upkeep, we got a higher grade of product to help eliminate problems. We have had them for about 7 or 8 years. Ours are hand-scraped with beveled edges. The edges are the one thing I really don't like, especially with the light colored floor. For the first few years it was fine, but with time the space between the bevels are starting to accumulate dirt. We clean our floors regularly with a vacuum then damp mop with Bona. I did not think about this when choosing the floor. We have 2000 sq feet that I may need to clean with a toothbrush on my hands and knees.