It looks a lot like Elfa; have you checked them? Elfa Narrow 2-Runner Drawer White elfa Narrow 2-Runner Drawer White 12-7/8" x 20-3/4" x 7-1/4" h 256042 Here is a link that might be useful: White elfa drawers

I love these hanging baskets. I use a gallon size plastic bag punctured in a few places between the potting mix and the coir, like you did. Calibrachoa, or million bells, and petunias perform very well in these if you give them a lot of sun, feed them regularly and keep them well watered. Here's one of my baskets from last year, near the beginning of the summer. The white flowers are bacopas, a charming trailing plant. The petunias and calibrachoas trail a lot more as they grow. You'll need to prune them if they start to get sparse or leggy. The one difference I have with what you did is that I used 5-1-1 with extra peat. These plants prefer a fairly acidic, fast draining mix. And you really need to fertilize them often if you want them to keep flowering.

Winconsitom, thanks so much for your advice! I am in Alberta, Canada so you are correct in saying that crabapples are a big part of the smaller trees that are grown here. Otherwise, people grow a lot of swedish columnar aspens (don't want!), maples (also don't care for as usually they are weed trees), ivory halo lilacs (I love those), hawthorns, serviceberry's, mountain ash's etc. Norway spruces and hemlocks are nice trees but too large for my yard I have found. I did plant an Picea pungens 'Iseli Fastigiata' which should be nice and narrow for my yard. I think at this point I have enough trees for my landscape as you can see in the plan below (the red x"s are trees I have moved or removed from the plan). My neighbour to the south has so many trees in his yard that is the same size as mine that I hate to see his yard in 5 years! This is what my city's drainage guidelines state. "Topsoil and sod should be placed so as to reflect the contour of the Rough Grade. Homeowners are not to change the drainage pattern, make significant changes to the elevations of the lot or block a drainage easement." So far I haven't blocked the drainage swale but I I already have a couple of trees immediately beside the swale, one of which will drop leaves and tiny crabapples. I also plan to put plants/shrubs next to the swale. If I didn't plants near this area it would be a pretty boring part of my yard that would be mostly unusable. Since my yard isn't very big that would be horrible for me as someone who loves to garden. I would prefer plants any day to expanses of lawn and rock. My back yard has split drainage. From the middle of the yard, some of it goes to my side swale that drains to the front street and the rest drains into the swale that I posted a photo of. I am also on a hill so neighbouring properties have some of their drainage water pouring into my swale. The water then goes down the hill to the storm pond. My backyard at this point is heavily compacted silty clay with a small amount of topsoil on top so I will be looking at fixing the drainage in the spring (we didn't get a chance to finish this past summer) because at this point the water just runs down the slope causing erosion and more compaction. I think once I get my grass in, amend the soil some and put my plants and flower beds in there will be way less erosion and run off during a storm. Drainage pattern (red arrows) I will look into the plants you mentioned and I also plan to plant some that can take the moist conditions and anchor the slope. Thanks again for your suggestions! Carrie

Oops, I thought this was a tree thread I was responding too. I've only had a few b&b conifers that were so small I could take the basket off the plant before putting in the hole. I was referencing larger b&b deciduous plants below. Hoping to get some tree folks to chime in. http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1849687/the-truth-about-wire-baskets