Clamp lamp: clamp missing - how to make it stand up?!
wildmonster
18 years ago
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des_arc_ya_ya
18 years agojaybird
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Fuss Up how much is the most you've spent
Comments (29)Jane I am laughing! I picture you beautiful house with the maze of cords and lights! Buy higher watt cfls for the lamps. Don't add more lamps. I actualy began taking away! It makes all the difference. H turned me on to this place for good bulbs (see link below). The colour of the bulbs are gorgeous! The site is a little tricky. 42w you will want a 5100k. You won't see that option until you click on the 42w for 7$. Click the 42w and then you will see the options. I think the 5100k are 14$ a piece. The 85 w is unbelievable. Its big but anything I had inside that was stalled popped right out! I can grow vanda types inside. No problem. I think they are about 26$. You can get away with a shorter run time with the more powerful lights. I know what you mean about tripping. Last winter I started 3 fires with extension cords and got a bruise the size of a grapefruit on my leg. I am happy to get rid of the balllast tubes. Kept on smashing my head on the edge! I looked like an orchid POW. You'll just have to hand out sunglasses at your door if you upgrade! I also had a visit by Chicago's Finest when I first moved in. I have an 85w in the window now. It keeps the burglars away. I grow little Dragon Trees I brought from FL. They look a lot like Cannabis when they are small. Have to keep them out of the ground floor window. Live next to a small restaurant that's packed with young YUPPIES on the w.e's. My lights are a cruel reality check after 6 beers and 4 shooters! Clara High on Orchids Bllomed under an 85W CFL Here is a link that might be useful: Great CFL's...See More'Big Bertha' 85w CFL Set Up. Endless Possibilities :-)
Comments (20)Clara - Looks like you are certainly pumping out the lumens, and plants look happy. Two questions to ponder though: at $45 a pop, these 85W CFLs + fixture are well-beyond chump change, at least for me. At some point, it must make sense to switch over to a HID lighting system. A ceiling mounted 1000W HPS, for example, would probably irradiate a good portion of your grow space, and they can't be more than a couple of hundred bucks. Second, the size of those 85W CFLs in the HD brooder lamp seems to ensure a lot of wasted lumens, and they stick out so far, a strip of Al-foil won't do much. As someone previously said, those gigantic CFLs seem much better suited to horizontal mounting in a "wing" or "half-tube" style fixture. I think the same poster described making a simple one with a double-ended screw-in socket, 8' heating duct cut in two lengthwise, and a couple of sheet metal screws. That said, the brooder lamps _are_ very flexible in their placement. Personally, I don't exceed a 55W bulb (linked below) in this fixture because, as you pointed out, I don't like my retinas fried just walking around the room. Nice thing about this particular 55W is the squat design that just about fits inside the 10.5" hemisphere. And not too shabby at 3600 lumens and $16. Here is a link that might be useful: fat 55W CFL...See Moreclamped fins!!!!
Comments (36)I wish I'd seen this forum earlier. Poor guy. First of all, it may have been the 100% water changes that killed him. Stark fresh water can be difficult for fish to live in. believe it or not, old water is healthier, provided it's clean, than fresh water from the tap. The trick is to do PARTIAL water changes, not 100% ones. I highly suggest never doing a 100% water change. You might also think about it from this point of view; temperature changes of more than 1 degree can put a fish in shock and stress it out, which makes it more likely to get a disease in the first place. (Aside from potentially dying from the shock.) The water temperatures need to be exactly the same before you transfer your fish to new water. Someone should have advised Ezzy not to do a 100% water change like that. Wish I saw this thread earlier. Also, gravel is a must. It seems that the tank/bowl did not have any substrate at all. This is a bad thing because a substrate is needed for helpful bacteria to grow. The kind that break down waste and thusly help control the ammonia and nitrate/nitrite levels. To anyone who reads this, gravel, pebbles, sand, or the beta-hobby-popular glass/plastic beads MUST be at the bottom of the tank for there to be a natural cycle within it. Also, I can't believe someone would take a fish which is very practically named "Siamese Fighting Fish" and put them next to each other. I could tell by that comment alone that Ezzy is extremely new to fish keeping. It's common knowledge that putting 2 betas together like that would stress them out. A person should be able to sense that they aren't really "friends." (I suppose they're as good of friends as an Oscar and a goldfish. The Oscar loves the goldfish, for his part.) And, yes, even in separate tanks, if they see each other they'll be going crazy trying to get the fish in the tank next to them. Very simple thing to avoid and it's common knowledge. Even the people at Petsmart will tell you to let a new tank run a couple of weeks with no fish in it before introducing a catfish or another hardy fish. They will also tell you to float the fish in it's bag of water IN the tank for at least 15 minutes to allow the water to gradually equalize with the tank and prevent shock in the fish. Furthermore, most Petsmart employees know that Betas will fight each other and that putting 2 bowls close together is not something that should happen long-term. These are simple rules that all fish keepers need to know and it appears that Ezzy wasn't aware of them. I hope this helps someone who is trying to care for an ill fish, because you can contribute to its demise if you stress it out too much. Always be aware of the effect YOU have on the tank/bowl, and don't get tunnel vision trying to remove the disease at the cost of your pet's life....See MoreWhat makes a lamp "good"?
Comments (21)Lamp value has to do with the materials, design and surfaces and sometimes the maker. It depends on what the body is made from -- how valuable that material and fabrication might be. There are manufacturers like Circa lighting and Arteriors known for high quality (well made and finished) lamps and there are loads of contemporary/industrial lamp designers. Often, the cost is related to materials or the intricacy of the lamp's construction or licensing -- i.e. a designer's name used by a manufacturer. You pay extra, say for Philippe Starck's Miss K lamp due to the designer. Mainly the value lies in what the body is made of how well the lamp is constructed and wired. Lamps that are artisanal --i.e. hand made -- can be expensive, especially if they are older or antique. F.ex. there were tons of gorgeous lamps made in France before & after WWII by artists who worked in various materials. Some materials -- like real bronze that's cast and is a living finish -- are rare in lamps today. The famous sculptor Giacometti had a brother, Diego, who made bronze lamps and coffee tables during the 1950s which are works of art. Those go for a fortune, obviously. During the mid-20th century lamps were fashionable and many artists and sculptors made them. You see those getting big prices due to scarcity value if they are in good condition. But otherwise, I don't see why anyone would pay a huge price for a new lamp unless it has an unusual design or it's a special material. I buy lamps at local auctions and house sales because they go for very little and can be wonderful. But pretty much all my lamps are antique Chinese ginger jars which I've bought separately and had mounted. For me, those are "good," as opposed to a lamp with some type of simulated finish. Shades can be very expensive and add to the value. There's a woman in Italy who makes crazy cool custom shades - Paola Napoleone. Older English lamp shades are so much fun with very eccentric shapes and ball fringe. Shades can be custom as well or even made to match. I have both silk and parchment. I now only use LED bulbs in my lamps because those don't get hot and that prolongs the life of shades dramatically....See MoreOklaMoni
18 years agoJoy__G__in__NE
18 years agowichitarick
18 years agowichitarick
18 years ago
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