Help painting over ceramic kitchen canisters?
kittymommy
18 years ago
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gardenlady58102
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Painting ceramic
Comments (2)If she's glazed, spray a coat or two of MATTE Krylon sealer over her, then paint with anything. If she's not glazed, spray Primer before painting. Tips I read from some craft site and an artistic gal I know who does this with items too. I never knew you could paint over glossy ceramic, so I was happy to read how to do it. hugs, Karen...See MoreHelp painting over 70's era gloss oil-based (?) paint
Comments (0)A while ago my mom stripped the mirrored tiles off her hallway wall - really dirty yellow oil-based(?) gloss paint from the 70's. I primed the ripped paper with Kilz and then skimmed with pre-mixed joint compound. I really didn't want to sand (lead?) so planned on skimming the entire hall (it's only 10ft long or so by 7'6" or 7'9" high, the other walls have lots of doors). Now I'm thinking I really don't want to skim around doors, though I think I'll have to skim the blank wall just to feather out all the patches. So, what should I do and in what order? Skim over the old dirty wall on Sat, let her handyman paint the ceiling Monday (she doesn't want him painting the walls "since he's not a painter", though why she's hiring him to paint kitchen/FR/hallway ceilings I don't know)? Wash the other walls with TSP substitute or DW detergent powder to degloss, then prime and paitn all the walls after the ceilings are done? Or should I try to clean the bare wall before skimming (afraid of getting patches wet)? Or do I spot-prime the patches, then clean the wall - by then, will it be deglossed so I can prime over it? BTW, we still have some adhesive from some kind of tape stuck to the wall, so I was thinking skimming was the way to go - I tried scraping and this stuff is not coming off. I used Kilz to prime the bare paper from the ripped drywall before I patched. She only has a quart, I don't think it'll do the whole hallway, so what should we buy a gallon of? I was telling her about Aura but 1) I don't know if it'll stick to the gloss paint even if I try to degloss it by washing with DW powder 2) would it be less $$ to buy a separate primer to go over with Regal (hopefully I can talk her into Matte or Eggshell not semigloss or gloss) if I end up skimcoating? How many coats of primer over joint compound if I skim? I'm hoping for 1 coat of light green paint over white or green-tinted primer. I'm not looking forward to doing this, wish she'd had one of my brothers do it when they were visiting last year, or hire someone (she's hiring a painter to do trim and interior doors later this year, don't know why she's have "nonpainter" do ceilings now). But I didn't think it was a good idea to have skimmed wall when grandkids came to visit next month - I think we should at least get primer on before then (but after ceilings are painted). Would it be best to paint (only have a couple of weeks to let it cure b4 visit) or just prime (and then touchup and spot prime again b4 painting if needed) before the visit? Any/all help greatly appreciated!...See MoreHow can I make my kitchen look more contemporary?New canisters?(p
Comments (32)I'll chime in as a fan of contemporary myself, and a not-so-much fan of country. Your kitchen definitely has a country look to it for reasons already posted. The natural color oak cabs unfortunately don't fall into any description of contemporary, but I would expect touching the cabs to be off the table. If you need canisters for practical reasons (e.g. storage), then consider stainless steel. I got a nice set from Costco for not much money, and Crate & Barrel also have nice ones. Your family room has a contemporary look to it (with the exception of the table lamp). If you look at the elements there in comparison to your kitchen, what you see are solid colors, clean lines, and a lack of nicknacks. Look at the window treatments in particular. Solid color valence, and solid color drapes. Also look at the artwork over the fireplace. Dramatic dark frame that matches the color of the fireplace below, complementary colors in the matting, and a repeating dark brown mat towards the inside. So ask yourself, "how do I bring these design themes to my kitchen?" Well, replace the window treatment with a solid color. I would recommend a dramatic color that matches some other elements in the room such as your counters. Vertical pleating such as you have now is more country. No pleating (like your window valence in the family room) or horizontal pleating (like in roman shades) are more contemporary. Although roman shades always have a summer beach house feel for me, but that's probably just me. For the stuff on top of the cabinets, you should replace them with repeating items in solid or repeating colors. For example you could use a dozen clear/colored art glass plates that again match the counters. The key here is to use multiples of the same item in the same or similar colors, whereas currently you have a mix of disparate items (plate, jug, basket, bottle, etc). Anyway you get the idea - repeating elements, repeating colors, simple lines, no clutter. Those things say "contemporary" to me. Good luck and I hope that helps a little....See MorePainting a bathroom's ceramic floor tile
Comments (12)After thoroughly cleaning the floor, I used a bonding primer by Valspar as my first coating. You can use 2 coats, but I only used one coat. A bonding primer prepares the surface to accept the paint and grips it. Then I used Behr"s porch and patio floor paint. It's a great outdoor water based enamel low sheen paint. I used 2 coats as I was covering dark brown tiles and dark gray grout. I let that cure for a week. My next step was to use the blue left over paint from the walls, Sherwin Williams eggshell Ocean Breeze to stencil. I picked a stencil that would be easy to use for a first time stenciller. I used a firm foam roller. It was so fast and easy to do until I got to the tiles that were partial. My tiles were laid diagonally, so there are so many cuts, but I do one tile and then wipe the stencil and let it dry before going to another tile. I've got a lot of time, so there's no rush. the reason I do this is because sometimes you have to bend the tile around the toilet base or just a small piece of the tile is cut off. Now I'll cut the stencil to finish the triangle tiles that are left. That is the tedious part. I'll let that cure for another week and then apply the protective urethane. I'll use 2 coats. This is a guest on suite bathroom and I think that should be sufficient. I'll let that cure for a month to be safe. I won't have guests until Thanksgiving, so it will be perfect timing. Thank you all for your help and comments. My next bathroom floor will have a different stencil. I have 4 bathrooms and a laundry room floor to do. The laundry room is a concern. I'm worried about moving the washer and dryer across the floor and damaging the painted tiles. I can't lift them....See MoreLillie1441
18 years agokittymommy
18 years agochuckr30
18 years agoLillie1441
18 years agoAprilDell Heilner
7 years agosunnyca_gw
7 years ago
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