Janieful: "The advanced toilet makes sense to me - at least much more than a separate bidet would. I have never used either, but bidets take up so much space. The one in all model is much more practical." The advanced toilet seats are not, strictly speaking, direct replacements for bidets, though one generic term for advanced toilet seats is "bidet seat." The first and foremost function of an advanced toilet seat is water washing a bit further to the rear than a bidet cleanses. Cleansing the anus with water is far superior to wiping (and spreading) with dry paper. Most current models of advanced toilet seat have a second washing function called "feminine cleaning," or a variant thereof, which has many similarities to the function of a bidet. As you may guess, that function directs the water somewhat further forward than the primary function does. However, in "real" bidets, the water comes from the front, whereas in advanced toilet seats, the water approaches from the rear, so there is a difference. The various brands of advanced toilet seats approach these functions in different manners. Inax, which invented the advanced toilet seat category, determined that the optimal angle of incidence of the spray on the anus should be 70 degrees from horizontal or, in other words, just 20 degrees from vertical. The Inax advanced toilet seats therefore have spray wands for posterior cleansing that extend out fairly far, so that the spray can be more nearly vertical. Toto, the biggest player in the market, was obsessed by the spectre of "backwash," the (small proportion of the) water that rebounds off the user's posterior, and accordingly Toto Washlets are designed to spray water at the anus at 43 degrees from horizontal, which reduces (but does not not eliminate) the amount of backwash that hits the spray wand. But spray directed at Toto's 43 degree angle does not wash as effectively as the 70 degree spray of the Inax models does. Inax addresses the backwash matter with an aggressive self-cleaning cycle for the spray wands, executed both before and after each use. As to the feminine function, Toto can get by with a single wand for both posterior and feminine cleansing, with two spray nozzles in the single wand, because the 43 degree spray angle for the posterior wash already is so shallow. Inax has to use a separate dedicated spray wand for feminine cleansing, because the wand that Inax uses for posterior cleansing would not be positioned well for the feminine cleansing function. But, whether or not you use the toilet seat for bidet-like functions, water-assisted posterior cleansing is a huge step up from dry wiping after a bowel movement. There probably is no way to upgrade your bathroom more effectively than to replace a passive toilet seat with an advanced toilet seat.

Hi everybody! I have been waiting all summer for it to cool off. It seems that the heat makes my dizziness and nausea worse. I have lost about 15 lbs with being too sick to eat throughout the summer. I just this week got my helper here to help me clean the garage and then I moved the vanity out there and sanded it a bit in the easy places, and got it up on a table. I got the brass floor protectors pried off the bottom of the legs and was pleased to find no holes have been drilled in them. That means that I can drill holes for the feet I bought. I have adjustable feet that will give the vanity an extra 1/2" of height, and that can be screwed up to give another 1/2" if we want. That would make the legs appear to float way too high in the air, so I don't think it will work. the extra 1/2" will have to suffice, with the ability to make the vanity level so that the sink will drain properly. I have also decided that the bail-type handles that came with it are not going to work for us. I can't see us fumbling around trying to grab the bail that has recessed back into the grooves of the handle around it, standing there with water or soap in our eyes. A knob is much easier to use. I had Hubby try using the bail and he vetoed it on the first try and said, "replace 'em!" I am using these on doors of a set of shallow cupboards that will be recessed into the closet of the the neighboring bedroom. I figured they were a sure bet for the six drawers, too. I am not going to use the center drawer anymore, what with all the plumbing going on above it, so I will just fill in those holes. I need to cut away the bottom of the drawer space, then move the drawer support piece to the left or right. It is at dead center right now, and the sink's drain will need to go there. I just have to sand down the fluted areas of the vanity table, then it will be ready to be primed and painted. I am still leaning toward painting it the violet Peace and Happiness. I have purchased more components for the plumbing. I have all of the shower controls and the rain shower head and regular shower head. Still need to get the hand-held and some safety hand-hold bars for the shower area. I still have not finalized a wall tile (looking at fake Cararra tile for the room's walls) or floor tile or the surface for the top of the vanity. We HAVE concluded, though, that we cannot get this job done until Toby, our ever-more-confused beagle/golden retriever mix, dies. He will be 16 at the end of this month. He has spinal arthritis and began vomiting every time he was given his Tramadol or his glucosamine/chondroitin pills, then quit taking them. He had to go on prednisone to control the pain. He is peeing a lot in the house, always on a rug or quilted mattress pad put down for him. The bathroom is his main place to pee. I will not have my new floor grout saturated with dog pee. I don't think the poor guy would cope well with the construction, either. He is now blind in one eye and somewhat deaf. It would be too confusing for him to do all that construction. So even though I can't get Jim over here to do the work, if I could, I would not be able to do it until Toby passes on. So, instead, we are getting new gutters and trim, and getting our four remaining windows replaced. We did the other three windows when we remodeled the kitchen and made the living room into the library/music room. I am in the process of cleaning and decluttering so the window guys can get in to measure!

I would love to see your unconventional master bath!! Our plan started with a first-floor master bedroom /bath plus an extraordinarily poorly placed powder room. You noted above that you don't like cleaning bathrooms -- I'm with you on that. Since it's just me and my husband most of the time, I don't see the point in two toilets on the first floor ... so we moved the powder room next to the master bath and removed the toilet from the master bath. So we're planning the powder room to be adjacent from BOTH the master bedroom AND the main house ... and then we have the bathing facilities separate. Unlike toilets-shoved-in-closets, the powder room is 5' the short direction, so it's large enough for comfort, and I only have one toilet to clean on the first floor. I've removed the other parts of the house, so it looks kind of confusing ... you'll have to trust me that it fits in nicely with the rest of the house ... at the foot of the tub, that's a little ledge and a TV for my husband ... that's a linen tower to the left of the vanity ... that's the shower head floating in mid-air /obviously it'll be attached to the wall: I definitely see your point about two standard bathrooms being more economical, just trying to figure out for myself if I was thinking of doing something different for the sake of being different or if it would actual make life easier for my family! Walking yourself through various options is a good way to determine that. We personally are sold on the above bath layout because my husband likes to stay in the tub for hours at a time (he often "reserves" the tub before a, so we decided it makes sense to place the toilet close-but-separate. Also, what computer program are you using? :) HGTV Home and Landscape Platinum Suite. It's nothing special. I drew up your latest suggestion in this program. Concerns: - If you're trying to have kids share, you need a sink in the toilet closet. Otherwise, you still have a problem with the kid in the toilet closet coming out and having no sink available to him ... if you're going to do a toilet-in-a-closet, I'd put a small pedestal sink in there too. - You have a bottleneck in the sink area. If the kids are using this area at the same time, you're going to have people trying to squeeze past people at the sink. - I forgot the exact square footage and have already cleared it out of my computer program, but it was in the 130s ... so it's still bigger than two simple bathrooms and has water walls spread around. However, if the access is off a common hallway, having two baths right beside each other seems silly to me I think the two baths side-by-side appear silly because they're floating in mid-air. If we had a whole floorplan and could see one bedroom to the left of the back-to-back baths /two bedrooms to the right of the back-to-back baths, it'd look different. It'd look like the bathrooms each "belonged" to those bedrooms, though they're accessed through the hall. Mrs. Pete has some great ideas. keeping your water from the same source, but with two separate you'll definitely have an easier time selling. best of luck! I agree that most people would be attracted to two plain bathrooms rather than a "creative" layout. With resale in mind, here's a question: How long do you anticipate staying in this house? If you're going to move before the kids are teens, I'd say go with one simple bathroom. One bathroom would be enough for them until they start in with make-up /hair and shaving. I think that a girls bath and a boys bath might be nice - perhaps the girls bath has one sink and more storage / makeup area and a tub and the boys get 2 sinks and a shower unit, etc That'd work fine if the OP ends up with a nice even split of 2 girls and 2 boys ... but since half these children aren't even conceived yet, that's a guess.

A fix, won’t. The problem is the crack, inherently peters out toward the sink bowl, with the widest portion on the edge. You may be able to flow enough repairing material into a portion of the crack, but you end up with an area of the crack that is too narrow for the repair material to penetrate and bond. What happens then is the crack below the bonded area slowly spreads and reappears, like a bad penny. If you know the actual material, have the correct tools and materials, it might be possible to open the crack enough through its entire extent to repair it correctly, but it’s a far from simple or easy task. Also, on some materials, the work to prepare for the repair sometimes renders the unit unrepairable...much like a bullseye on a windshield can suddenly become a huge crack when they attempt a resin repair.