When you have appliances or cabinets that meet in a corner (i.e., no corner susan to act as filler), you have to use filler on each side of the corner to ensure doors/drawers clear each other when opening. Doors & drawer fronts extend approx 1" past the drawer box, so you need 1" filler for that. Then, you need to factor in knobs & drawer pulls. They extend an inch or two further (mine are 1.5"). So now you're up to 2.5" or so of filler needed. [If you have an appliance like a DW next to the corner, then you need to know the depth of the door + handle. For example, my DW handle + door is approx 3.25" deeper than the cabinets next to it. So, if my DW were in the corner, I would need to have at least 3.25" of filler on the other corner side for my top drawer to open.] First, though, what type of cabinets will you have? That will also dictate how much filler you will need. Full overlay and frameless will need the most, partial overlay and inset will need the least. Some will be needed for both, but the amount needed will vary. The reason inset & partial overlay need less is b/c both types have doors/drawer fronts that are significantly narrower than the cabinet; so the exposed frame acts as filler. Talk to your KD about exactly how much you need...if s/he doesn't know...then I'd worry... Assuming full overlay and your measurements are: Doors and drawer fronts are 1" thick Drawer pulls and door knobs (on the sink cabinet) are 1.5" deep For full overlay and frameless, each side will need: Wall/sink side: A minimum of 2.5" of filler to clear the drawers + drawer pulls on the drawer base around the corner. This will allow you to open your sink base approx 90 degrees and, btw, will probably result in your door constantly hitting those drawers. To open the door wider, you'll need at least 3" of filler b/w the sink cabinet & the corner. If your door knob happens to hit the same space as the one of the drawer pulls, you may have to add another 1.5" of filler...for 4.5" total. On the peninsula side: You will need a minimum of 2.5" of filler to clear the door + door knob on the sink base cabinet around the corner. So now, you need at least 2.5" of filler b/w the corner & the drawer base to allow the middle drawer of the drawer base on the peninsula to just barely clear the sink base cabinet door + handle. In each case, I recommend adding another 1/2" filler to account for unevenness as well as give your drawers/door some "wiggle room" to be sure they all clear each other. So, that means... On the sink side...3.5" of filler b/w the sink base cabinet and the back of the cabinet that faces the peninsula. On the peninsula side...3" of filler b/w the corner where the runs meet and the drawer base on the peninsula. While there's not much you can do about the filler b/w the sink base and the peninsula (unless you use an open cabinet), you can utilize the 3" of filler space needed b/w the drawer...

If you keep the knotty pine -- which I think might come back in a retro-cool way -- the black hardware that you already have is just right for it. In fact I am having a hard time picturing anything else on knotty pine. [grin] Here are some knotty pine kitchens to give you some ideas. I wouldn't fault you for painting your cabinets, but that is an awful lot of work so if you could see your way clear to embracing the retro, you could still end up with a very nice warm kitchen. A fresh countertop and a lighter backsplash (esp. see the green in the Retro Renovation kitchen below) could go a long way toward updating your kitchen while keeping the vintage look. From Houzz: [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Boise Interior Designer Judith Balis This one they say is knotty alder, but same idea: [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Portland Design-build Kaufman Homes, Inc. From Retro Renovation. This is closest to your own kitchen so I'll link the post about it below. Note that the white appliances and laminate countertop fit perfectly with the retro-modest style, so if you go this direction you wouldn't need to "upgrade" to stainless steel appliances or granite. (I put "upgrade" in quotes because I don't consider them better, necessarily; they are just different style choices.) Here is a link that might be useful: Knotty pine kitchen on Retro Renovation

My flatware along with steak knives resides in its own drawer. I have an expandable organizer I like so well I bought a new one for the new kitchen. It holds a serving for twelve including iced tea spoons with room for steak knives and chopsticks. My good knives have a knife block. Paring knives and other utility knives share a drawer with peelers, corers, cheese slicers, pizza cutter and microplane and other "cutting" tools.

Do not be embarrassed about your kitchen! You have chosen to stay home with the kids - more important than cabinets any day. Normally, I don't encourage cabinet painting, but your finish is worn and that is the time to consider it. I have white appliances and I love them - I will never do stainless. I have a friend with a newer white kitchen and she has white appliances. There is nothing wrong with white appliances. Turn off HGTV:) Just make sure if you go white, that it works with the appliances. One of the fun things about an older kitchen is you can get creative with it, especially if you are at all open to cottage style. You can have the center panel of one or more cabinets removed and replaced with glass or for a farmhouse touch, chicken wire with fabric shirred behind it. It is hard to make an older kitchen look modern, but if it is your style, it is easy to make it sweet and cozy. I would not do a countertop paint - they don't last and your present counter is fine - it is not bright orange or red so leave it alone:) I retrofitted a plate rail in one of my cabinets - if you want info just ask: from Pinterest If you have any sewing skills, you can make a faux roman shade for the window. I also have no problem with your signs on you soffit. I have plates on mine. Your kitchen should express your style and be unique to you: My faux roman shade, plates on my soffit and white appliances: https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~110720042 If you don't go with white, consider a soft green: Another thought since you have kids is white uppers and navy or royal blue or gray/blue lowers - might be easier to keep looking nice with kids. An inexpensive backsplash is the textured, paintable beadboard wallpaper. I don't generally like faux products, but this is good, inexpensive product ($20 Lowes), and very easy to do. Beadboard wallpaper backsplash: I used it in my basement kitchenette: https://www.houzz.com/photos/my-pics-work-in-progress-phvw-vp~65270573