Mike, since both fluorescent bulbs and tubes loose their intensity rapidly as you move even a few inches away from them, it is very difficult to grow tall plants under them efficienty since the lower leaves are in a very low light situation. Plants growing underlights should be able to have most of their greenery up close to the bulb or tube. I don't grow anything under the tubes which is more than about 8" tall for that reason. Wattage means less than footcandles when placing your plants, so use a light meter to measure the footcandles where the leaves of the plants are. I used to use a grow tube and a bright white in each fixture. I finally switched over to bright white only and the orchids seem to do just as well. I also keep a couple angled old door mirrors horizontally behind the shelves hoping to reflect back some of the light onto the plants. As for whether they've helped or not, I don't know; I had them so figured I'd use them rather than toss them in the trash.

All of this is my opinion so take it for what's it worth if anything? I wouldn't use starting fluid IMO it has no lubricating properties and will wash what little oil residue is left in the combustion chamber and crankcase. IMO Carb. cleaner is much better choice it does contain some lubricating properties and closer to gasoline than Ether which IMO is close to alcohol without the water. IMO you can run the engine much longer off carb. cleaner in no load situation. Now for your problem If you remove the plug spary carb. cleaner down the hole. pull the rope several times the comb chamber and crank case should be clear of all oily fuel residue (this would clear up you Chemisty theroy if the fuel mixture it correct or not). I always check spark by plugging into the spark plug laying if on the jug and watching for spark. Then I squirt one second blast carb cleaner down the hole, put the plug back in and attempt to start. It should fire or pop after couple of pulls. If it fires up and rev's up some then I prime it through the carb. venturi with maybe 2 second blast. It should fire off three or four pulls rev up and die or take off on gas after the air is siphon out of the carb. If it will only fire off carb. cleaner and die after several attempt you have carb. problem. this could be reed valve (I have never experience bad one) diaphram problem not pulling the fuel up from the tank. or over rich condition (plug wet) from the needle and seat failure. If the diaphram is pulling the fuel up and it stil won't start or run then IMO you have plugged up carb. passage (very small ofices) somewhere. After thorough cleaning All passages (including under the welch plug which houses three main jets, idle, mid, and high) assembled correctly. After all this if it still won't run IMO I would throw it in the trash and by new one Chances are if it's poulan it an't worth the bother anymore.....That's when I give up. IMO If your doing this for customer I would be up front about it with fees and chances of solving the problem. Something like inform him of the charge for looking at the saw (checking for spark, compression check, clearing the comb. chamber, checking fuel filter/tank, and checking the spark plug) Then, what the charge would be for attempting to clean the carb. (no parts involve removal of the covers spraying out with carb. cleaner, and if that fails I would then say cleaning attempts didn't work. options are rebuild the carb and inform him of the cost of that and if still may not fix the problem. Most will not invest the labor and parts charge in an old small saw. Only use will some experience willing to attempt to fix them due to our time sometimes is worth the trouble when we get freeby discarded by someone who with no skill and will not spend the money it takes to maybe fix it. I don't blame them cause even if it fixed you still have old saw/equipment that still may not work the next time you attempt to use it or few months...

can you say "fire hazard". I think thats too much light in too small a space and you'll cook your rose bush. Any chance you can pull your rose bush out into the room and put a couple of 60 watt plant lights shining on it and see how the plant does. The results will depend on what your goals are with the rose bush. If you want to grow champion roses and show them at a wintertime festival then you may need a whole bunch of light. If your goal is to overwinter the bush and then sit it on your patio next springtime I believe a couple of 60W bulbs will do the trick. Good luck.

Nice sconces! We have 4x40w bulbs, 2 each in two sconces, in our small master ensuite. It's adequate but barely, partly because I find the glass a little too thick and it dims the bulbs quite a bit. I'm waiting for them to die so I can put in slightly brighter LEDs. I would think it WOULD be adequate for a powder room -- guests don't need to see every pore and cat hair on the floor. In my 5x5 powder I have 2 60s in an overhead fixture and it's pretty darn bright. Especially since I replaced the charcoal grey fixtures with white ones. This post was edited by robotropolis on Tue, Nov 5, 13 at 11:03