I don't think they recomend this as the top layer is thin. They suggest using Spray Tone ( which I don't think u can find). You might use some fine steel wool an Spray Tone and it blends the colors . I have a bottle I have used from several times. This time 2/1/23 found it to be solid in bottom. Tried several things to get back but no luck. I also had some water damage in front of sink and the boards cuped on the sides. I have some left over from previous but kept putting off. Last winter noticed the gaps get a little larger than smaller with weather. Used a heat gun lightly to make plyable, used a screw driver to force glue under edges a couple boards at a time. Have a couple real heavy weights I set on them a d used pin nailer in several areas. Took a few days to make sure glue was dry before moving to next. Turned out pretty good. Fell in love with this product at a parade of homes. Saw many homes with different hardwood floors and due to all the traffic they looked pretty bad. They said they would redo the floors after. Came to a home with Hartco Pattern Plus and looked like they had already refinished. Assked about it angd they said no, just the way it is made. Little more expensive but decided that was the floor for us. Just cleaned, waxed and couple spray tone fixes. Probably over 20 years. It is a shame they don't manfacture this stuff any more!,

What?! Oh no I would not do a marble top. I think you have a lot of possibilities but that would not be one I'd choose. Maybe flag Beth H in your title and see what ideas she has. She's refinished lots of furniture and has a blog/website you could check out. She's a Pro on Houzz you can search for and follow too.

Since your floor is actually a sub floor, it was never meant to be a finished floor. For a rental, I would put down floating floors, or carpeting, etc.

Mostly, it looks "splotchy" because of the type of wood it is. You would need to sand it down completely, using an orbital sander. Do a test to see what grit to start with (maybe "100"). This will depend on what type of sealer is over the stain. Then do progressive grits - 100, 120, 150 & 180. Don't skip any. Finish by hand with the 180, going in the direction of the grain. Hopefully you can do color tests on the back of the leaves or table. You will need to seal the wood before you stain it to prevent as much blotching as possible. Or you can look into "toning" it with water based stains. Are you able to spray on your finish? Do some internet research for the "best way to refinish a table" (insert the wood type).