First, arrange everything you need AHEAD OF TIME! I learned the first time around that not having something when you have epoxy ready to go is NOT GOOD!

What you need: Your project
--two-part epoxy (resin and hardener)
--measuring cup (I used a tablespoon for small amount)
--container to mix in (straight sided)
--something to mix with (needs a straight side to scrape container sides, I use a plastic picnic knife for small amount)
--a piece of stiff cardboard or a throwaway paintbrush (I have a craft paintbrush that is getting stiffer and stiffer, but I keep using it)
--rubbing alcohol (the only thing that will clean up wet epoxy)
--a rag for wiping your hands, etc (to wet with ALCOHOL, not water)
--something to time for two minutes (watch or clock with second hand, kitchen timer, etc. Not in pic, I used clock on wall)

Measure EQUAL AMOUNTS of resin and hardener into your mixing container, (I quickly wiped out my measuring spoon with alcohol-rag), and begin stirring. Time stirring for TWO MINUTES.

Be sure to scrape sides and bottom of container frequently. Use kind of a whipping action, like hand-whipping egg whites. Mixture will get frothy and even have little bubbles float into the air.

POUR mixture onto your project. You can pour it all in the middle on a small project, pour it all around on a larger one. You can see all the bubbles in this pic:

To be continued...
(I just don't want to accidentally delete this whole thing before I post it! So I'll do it in a few parts.)

Ok, next comes a weird pic. I am breathing LIFE into my project. Ok, not really! All those little bubbles will go away with a gentle application of carbon dioxide. The easiest way to do this is to EXHALE over the epoxy. Looks weird, works great. You will see the little bubbles just pop and disappear.

Just keep doing this until no more bubbles appear. (I did this through a piece of pvc pipe over my larger project so I could move around easier. Yes, I got lightheaded because it took awhile! There is a way to do this using a bunson burner. I haven't tried that though.)

Some little bubbles up close:

And a close-up after the bubbles are gone:

That is basically it. The project will take a several hours to dry. It says in the literature how long at what temp and humidity level. The hotter the better. A couple other little things in the next post...

If you have raised your project on blocks (which need to be AWAY from the edge toward the middle of the project by the way!) you will have hard little drips along the bottom edge. The easiest way to deal with these is with a belt sander, takes them off in a hurry. More tediously, you can hand sand them. Sanding does make the epoxy turn opaque, but if it's where it matters, you can do another layer and it will go clear again.

Piece of cake, eh? Have fun!

CHICKEE: When I did the vanity, I did each side, the front, and the top separately. (That's why I had to do the tape "form" when I put it all together, to do another layer on the countertop to cover the seam between the top and the sides/front, if that makes sense.) So I did it in five batches total, if I remember right.

Nancy

Veronica

Maria

Pat

Maria

On my watering can I actually used resin on that swap project.

Veronica

Maria

Just checked out page 67 to see what might be falling off, and this was the last thread on that last page. Might still be useful to someone someday...

Roni

Is concrete considered a porous surface? You mentioned that the resin won't stick to a porous surface, so I thought I'd ask before I go out and buy it.

Thanks

POMMOM: It was just a happy accident to discover that the epoxy didn't stick to the back of my tile in this tute. I truly don't know if it would stick to concrete without testing it. I am assuming you DON'T want it to stick, like to the backs of your coasters? If so, the best thing to do is elevate your coasters off the surface (which is well protected with something as the epoxy WILL run off the sides). I didn't elevate the tile because I knew I could sand off the edges, just was happy to discover it wasn't necessary. You could use something like pieces of popsicle sticks, or foil balls, or even pebbles, just MAKE SURE they are well inside of where the epoxy will drip off, so they don't become adhered to your coaster! Does that make sense? You will have hardened epoxy drips on the edges, but they sand off very easily, especially if you have a belt sander.

DAISY: You can save the text in Word or something similar, but how to make the pics go with it I don't know, as they are in my photobucket account.

Question on your wonderful tutorial. I did my first epoxy test on my door hanger.
The question is what about on using epoxy on items that have already been sealed with tilelabe grout/tile sealer?? Or any kind of sealer?? I noticed it said in the directions for my epoxy, that it would require sanding or scratching etc and my eyes glazed over and promptly forgot about it until I had already started the pour. So the liquid appears to just be sitting on top of my door sign. Oh my...

So what have you done if you used grout sealer, or even decided later you wanted to use the epoxy and forgot if you sealed it??

I am so glad I didn't try this first on my sea turtle!! LOL. It was kinda fun actually, like the chemistry set I wanted when I was a kid that my parents never bought me!!

Thanks

To be honest, I have used epoxy on 1)my bathroom vanity...1st experience with it, thankfully a positive one! 2)a gourd vase and 3)that little tile in the tutorial. I have never tried anything that was sealed first. If it hasn't hardened in 24 hours, it's probably not going to, though someone with more experience might tell you to give it more time? Maybe you could call or email the manufacturer? Sorry I can't be more helpful this time!

Good news on mine. The epoxy did harden and I really LOVE the gloss. I'll take a pix tomorrow and show you all. Because I have a different sign on each side, the epoxy did run onto the back side and make a bit of a mess.

I used old tile to sit the sign on, upside down, with a ton of paper under that.I know I mixed up too much epoxy and lots of it ran over the edge and when it hardened it stuck the tile and newspaper to the sign. I think, after rereading your tut, i should have put the tile facing down with good side next to the sign. As it was, the old tile had a lot of drywall stuck to it and that got stuck to the epoxy and to one side of the sign. I did get it all peeled off and plan to do one more light coating on that side of the sign.

Thinking I'll be brave and do Ms. Loggerhead tomorrow, though hopefully someone migh ttell me what I should do since I already used sealer on her. I also used sealer on this sign, and it did work.

Could you tell me how your bathroom counter is doing with the epoxy/resin now?? I am thinking of using resin on my small glow in the dark backsplash. I am debating whether it would be easier to keep clean and get less water spots with the resin than without.

I know you did one awhile back so just checking. Thanks.

By the way, I will post but DH is rearranging his office and I can't get hooked up to the digital camera, but I did use resin on Madam Loggy and I love the look. Also did my door knob signs. so shiny and glossy.. Reminds me of those beautiful coffee tables back in the 70's made from real logs and resin coating.... i'm bablling. sorry

Before we had installed the faucet:

Today:

Hopefully I can post pix soon of Madam Loggy and my door signs.

How do you get your spirals so perfect?? Do you draw them ahead of time?? I can't seem to get mine to look right, specially on my yellow brick road pot, it is just all wrong.. thinking of tearing it apart and starting over

As each row of glass was added around the outside, it kept the same curve going. HTH!

I would LOVE to know the answer to that too!! I would so love to find something like this for outside, but I haven't seen anything like that yet!! Maybe someone else knows. ??