bump!!!

The use of of a significant volume of compost in container media comes with inherent issues, none of which are good. First, the reason most give for using compost is nutrition ...... but finished compost actually has very little to offer in that regard. Second, most growers mistakenly believe that because compost is very valuable for its ability to improve the structure of most mineral soils, that compost as a significant fraction of container substrates must be something akin to plant nirvana. It's not. Growing in containers is much closer to hydroponics than growing in the earth, so much of what works well in the garden is better left there than trying to adapt it to use in an entirely different culture. Specifically, compost is comprised of fine particles, and it holds a LOT of water between those particles. How much water inter-particulate water soils hold is directly linked to particle size, with finished compost being very fine - which is why we KNOW it holds a lot of excess water. "I use unfinished compost and the particles are larger so it drains better" you say? What about N immobilization and heat build-up from the composting process? and what happens as those larger particles quickly break down into small particles? The soil turns soupy. The only strategy remaining is to water in small sips and suffer the effects of an accumulation of solubles in the soil from fertilizer solutions and tap water ....... and hope it doesn't rain until the planting has matured sufficiently and roots colonized the entire soil mass so the plant can use the water fast enough that it doesn't rot roots. Now, substitute pine bark in an appropriate size for the compost. What do we have? A well aerated, free-draining soil that should satisfy the strictly organic crowd. There's little concern for root rot issues or impaired root function due to soggy soils, and the margin for grower error in the areas of watering and fertilizing is increased significantly. If you focus on the STRUCTURE of your container soils and shoulder the burden of providing for plants' nutritional needs, instead of sacrificing soil structure on the altar of virtually nonexistent nutrition just so you can feel good about using compost, you'll fare much better in your quest for 'best' and 'easiest'. It's almost a requirement to understand how water behaves in container media if you wish to separate yourself from the rest of the pack that believes Miracle-Gro or other similar container media based on large fractions (more than 20%) of fine ingredients like peat/compost/coir/sand/topsoil are even close to best or easiest. I'm going to link you to a thread that has been very active since spring of '05, and has almost 2,250 posts to it. There, you will find some information that should help you understand the importance if things like soil structure, aeration, particle size, water retention, drainage, and much more. I hope you find it helpful. Al Here is a link that might be useful: More about container media

Opps I spelled it wrong -- BEAP Bubble Envelope And Postage (Since you don't actually adhere the stamps and put the whole thing inside another envelope like a "normal" SASE. I can't remember who cooked it up, but it's a nice clarification for newbies. I sent my first SABSE inside another envelope myself.....)

Guava Jam 8 cups guavas, variable in degree of ripeness 8 cups sugar juice of 1 lemon Cut the fruit in half. Place in a pan with a little water and cook until soft. Strain the fruit, leaving behind the seeds and skins. Add the sugar and the lemon juice and bring to the boil. Steadily boil until you achieve the setting test for jam. Bottle and seal. Guava Jelly 750g guavas, peeled and cubed 4 cups water 4 cups sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice Add guavas to the water in a saucepan, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Pour fruit into a muslin bag which has been suspended over a bowl. Leave to drain overnight. Next day, measure the liquid and bring it to the boil. Add 1/4 cup sugar for every cup of liquid. Boil steadily, add lemon juice. Keep boiling, then test frequently. When a little sets in a saucer of cold water, bottle and seal. Guava Paste 1kg guavas, peeled 1 1/2 cups water 4 cups sugar, approximately Cut guavas in half and scoop out seeds. Soak the seeds in 1 cup of the water. Place the guavas in a saucepan with the remaining water, bring to the boil, reduce the heat to simmer, and cook the guavas until they are very soft. Take care they do not scorch. Strain the water from the seeds (it will be slightly mucilaginous), and add it to the guavas. Discard the seeds. Grind the guavas through the fine disk of a food grinder. Measure the pulp, and add an equal amount of sugar. Mix well; place in a large saucepan over very low heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is thick and a little tested on an ice-cold plate can be lifted off in one piece. Remove from heat and beat with a wooden spoon for 10 minutes, or until the mixture forms a heavy paste. Have ready a loaf pan, lined with wax paper. Turn the paste into the pan and set aside, in a cool place, for 24 hours. To store, turn the paste out of the pan and wrap it securely in foil. For a dried consistency, place the cooked paste on wax paper on a wooden board, cover with cheesecloth, and set in the sun for two days. Turn the paste occasionally to expose all surfaces to the sun.