Pledge may or may not build up, but it's like herpes, once you have it, you won't get rid of it. And it does cause problems in repair and refinishing. Waxing is a time-consuming job, but you don't need to do it frequently, every few years. Once you switch to wax, you should not use polishes as they may make it milky and soft. Put on some wax (yes, dark for dark woods) let it haze over then buff off all you possibly can, then buff a little more. Most people leave too much on and it attracts dirt and looks ugly. See the last paragraph of the link below. Alternately, you can use an emulsion polish like Oz or Guardsman once a month. Guardsman also makes a Furniture Cleaner that you might try first in an attempt to remove some of what's on there now. It's also possible that the finish along the edges has degraded due to acidic body oils. Cleaning will help, but if too far gone, you'll eventually need to strip and refinish as there's no saving gooey finish (see top of article for discussion on that.) If you refinish, you will really see the evils of Pledge. Here is a link that might be useful: Saving the finish

FWIW, I know how your wife feels about that fixture! I fell in love with the Kevin Reilly chandelier---the rectangular one with the fake candles--and have seen it at an aquaintenance's house and in a kitchen magazine. After much research a year ago, I found it for $13,000 at one of the Holly Hunt showrooms. But just now (after 15 more minutes looking...) I found an old eBay listing it for $5,800. Ugh. So Restoration Hardware is another budget way to go for a similar look. It is perfection isn't it?! Here is a link that might be useful: candle fixtures at Restoration Hardware

I have an entire houseful of woodwork to darken due to new wood floors. I have no cash left to pay a pro to redo everything or to replace all of the doors and trim in my home. Therefore, I am on my own. Everyone has said something true, and I have experienced it all. I am starting to get acceptable results now. Not acceptable to a "pro", but acceptable to folks I know who are aware, picky and share honest feedback. I've tried this and "Howards Restore-a-Finish". The Restore a finish is nice, but is not affecting the color much, and getting a redder hue is what I am after. I have a door and a cabinet I will lkely re0do. But the rest is turning out quite well. I will share what I have learned so far: - Experiment before starting the big job. I tried rubbing the minwax and brushing. Brushing is the best for me. - Clean your surface well (duh). I use a sponge with a ScotchBrite backing to gain surface grip for the minwax (I simply do not have the time to remove all doors and work them horizontally) - This stuff is too thick and sets too fast. To overcome this I work one thing at a time to "completion". Example: one cabinet door, one coat at a time. - I use small amounts in a separate container (don't paint directly out of the minwax can as I started doing. WRONG!!!). - Your brush will quickly become your worst enemy. Frequently clean your brush with paint thinner. - Find a brush you are comfortable with. I have settled into 1.5" width max. - I use thinner liberally and frequently on my brush. Keeping the brush cleared with thinner keeps the minwax flowing thinner, better, and more consistently; plus, it keeps the minwax wetter longer. I am able to easily work the surface (a vertical door jamb for example) top to bottom. - Don't stop to chat on the phone and then come back into your section you were working on. Guaranteed problems. You must your finish your section. - Last, but not least, take your time. The last thing I may try is actually thinning the minwax with thinner, but I don't know if I will go there now that my results are so much improved. Good luck!!

I saw that site while searching & just went back to it, but the hurricane shades are only 5" diameter top & bottom by either 11.5" or 14" tall. Though the base the shade sits on will hold a 6" candle. I'm assuming they mean diameter versus height. Thanks anyhow!