Randall, based on your location, here's the government poop on your soil (see below the demarcation). I'm guessing it's not red clay, but rather has some yellow clay in it. Does it look like the picture at the bottom of this post (farm near Raleigh)? I'd recommend fescue if you want a year-round green lawn. If your soil doesn't crust and get hard during the summer, you can use lime. Otherwise, use gypsum to break up the hard clay surface and Milorganite when it comes time to plant fescue seed. You should never have to dethatch, but aerating once or twice a year can help OM get deeper and work faster after you have a lawn going. You actually can top dress with granular lime right after seeding and don't worry about the nitrogen reaction. it won't matter that much. I have used peat moss or vermiculite as a top dressing also, but I have a commercial level Hunter irrigation system to keep that moist with regular spritzes. Fescue doesn't like to be covered too much, and even good seed can take three weeks to germinate (sprout). Straw helps, but I sometimes use a very lightweight insect cloth in 100-foot rolls to cover seed for the first three weeks. As soon as the grass is popping up, pull that off so the new sprouts don't "damp off." Look for the freshest seed you can find, direct from Oregon. Several sources on the internet when it comes to buying seed. Meanwhile, yes by all means find worms. I can't tell you how nice it is to see piles 4-inches in diameter of wormcastings in my yard this time of year, all over the place. One worm near a Pro-Spray head was about 10-inches long. He was a monster. We have little "cocoons" or egg thingees all over the raised vegetable garden, which has tons of azaleas, camellias and mountain laurels interspersed around additional raised beds for those good ol' veggies. We actually had tomatoes still two weeks ago! Anyway, the cocoons are future worms. Google earthworm images on the net so you can learn to recognize them. If you find them in the woods or anywhere, grab them and put them in your yard. Worms will find a way to organic material, even in clay soils, and they are indispensable. Good luck. ================================================= DURHAM SERIES The Durham series consists of deep, well drained moderately permeable soils formed in loamy residuum from acid crystalline rock. They are nearly level to sloping soils on broad ridges of the Piedmont. TAXONOMIC CLASS: Fine-loamy, siliceous, semiactive, thermic Typic Hapludults TYPICAL PEDON: Durham loamy sand--cultivated. (Colors are for moist soil unless otherwise stated.) Ap--0 to 8 inches; light brownish gray (10YR 6/2) loamy sand; weak coarse granular structure; very friable; medium acid; clear smooth boundary. (6 to 10 inches thick) BA1--8 to 13 inches; pale brown (10YR 6/3) loamy sand; weak coarse granular structure; very friable; strongly acid; clear smooth boundary. (4 to 10 inches thick) BA2--13 to 16 inches; pale brown (10YR 6/3) sandy loam; weak medium granular structure; friable, slightly brittle; strongly acid; clear smooth boundary. (0 to 4 inches thick) Bt1--16 to 25 inches; brownish yellow (10YR 6/6) sandy clay loam; moderate medium subangular blocky structure; friable, slightly sticky, slightly plastic; thin continuous clay films; strongly acid; clear smooth boundary. (8 to 10 inches thick) Bt2--25 to 36 inches; yellowish brown (10YR 5/8) heavy sandy clay loam, few fine and medium distinct (7.5YR 5/6) strong brown and yellowish red (5YR 4/6) mottles; moderate medium subangular blocky structure; friable, slightly sticky, slightly plastic; thin continuous clay films; strongly acid; gradual smooth boundary. (10 to 14 inches thick) Bt3--36 to 42 inches; mottled yellowish brown (10YR 5/8), strong brown (7.6YR 5/8), and yellowish red (5YR 5/8) sandy clay loam; weak medium subangular blocky structure; friable, slightly sticky, slightly plastic; thin patchy clay films on vertical faces of peds; few fine flakes of mica; strongly acid; gradual wavy boundary. (0 to 8 inches thick) BC--42 to 48 inches; mottled yellowish brown (10YR 5/4), strong brown (7.5YR 5/6), and yellowish red (5YR 5/8) sandy clay loam; weak medium subangular blocky structure; friable; few fine flakes of mica; few bodies of sandy loam; strongly acid; gradual wavy boundary. (5 to 12 inches thick) C--48 to 60 inches; mottled yellow, yellowish red, and pale brown saprolite that crushes to sandy loam; rock structure; friable; strongly acid. TYPE LOCATION: Wake County, North Carolina; five miles south of Rolesville, North Carolina, on county road 2227, 1/4 mile east of Bethany Baptist Church at junction of county road 1003; 50 feet north of road in cultivated field. RANGE IN CHARACTERISTICS: The thickness of the loamy horizons over saprolite range from 40 to more than 60 inches below the surface. Depth to bedrock is more than 5 feet. Coarse fragments range from 0 to 5 percent throughout. The soil is strongly acid or very strongly acid except where the surface has been limed. The A or Ap horizons have hues of 7.5YR, 10YR, and 2.5Y, value of 4 to 6, and chroma of 1 to 3. The BA horizon as hue of 10YR and 2.5Y, value of 6 to 8, chroma of 1 to 4. The A horizon is loamy coarse sand, loamy sand, sandy loam, or fine sandy loam. Where present, BA and BE horizons of sandy loam are pale brown, brownish yellow, brown, or light yellowish brown. The Bt horizon has hue of 7.5YR, 10YR, or 2.5Y, value of 5 to 8, and chroma of 4 to 8. It has few to common reddish, brownish, or yellowish mottles. Mottles in chroma of 2 or less are below the upper 20 inches of the Bt horizon. It is sandy clay loam or clay loam. Some pedons have lower Bt horizon of sandy clay, but the textural control section averages less than 35 percent clay. The BC horizon is similar in color to the Bt horizon except where the mottles are more contrasting. It is sandy loam, sandy clay loam, or clay loam. The B3 horizon contains weatherable minerals such as mica and feldspar. The C horizon is mottled or varicolored saprolite of acid crystalline rock. It is sandy loam or loamy sand. COMPETING SERIES: These are the Apison, Cahaba, Cowarts, Emporia, Euharlee, Granville, Hartsells, Kempsville, Linker, Marvyn, Nauvoo, Nectar, Pirum, Spadra, and Suffolk series. Apison, Hartsells, Linker, and Pirum soils have bedrock at depths less than 40 inches. Cahaba, Nauvoo, and Nectar soils have redder hue. Cowarts, Emporia, Kempsville, Marvyn, Spadra, and Suffolk soils lack weatherable minerals in the lower solum and have C horizons of Coastal Plain or old alluvial sediments. Euharlee soils contain more silt. Granville soils are higher in exchangeable aluminum. GEOGRAPHIC SETTING: Durham soils are on nearly level to sloping Piedmont uplands. Slopes are commonly 2 to 5 percent and range from 0 to 10 percent. Durham soils formed in residuum weathered from acid crystalline rocks, chiefly granite and gneiss. Mean annual precipitation is about 47 inches and the mean annual temperature is about 60 degrees F. near the type location. GEOGRAPHICALLY ASSOCIATED SOILS: These are the Appling, Cecil, Helena, Louisburg, Pacolet, Vance, Wedowee, and Worsham series. Appling, Cecil, Helena, Pacolet, Vance, Wedowee, and Worsham soils contain more clay and Louisburg soils contain less clay. Helena and Worsham soils have mottles with chroma 2 or less in the upper 20 inches of the control section and occupy lower positions on the landscape. DRAINAGE AND PERMEABILITY: Well drained; medium runoff; moderate permeability in upper subsoil and moderately slow permeability in lower subsoil. USE AND VEGETATION: About two thirds of the total acreage is in cultivation or pasture. The remainder is in mixed hardwood and pine. Common crops grown are corn, soybeans, tobaco, cotton, small grain, and vegetables. Native tree species include loblolly pine, short leaf pine, Viginia pine, sweetgum, whiteoak, red oak, post oak, hickory, and yellow-poplar. Understory species include flowering dogwood, persimmon, sourwood, red maple, eastern redbud, eastern redcedar, and common sassafras DISTRIBUTION AND EXTENT: Piedmont of North Carolina, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, and Virginia. The series is of moderate extent. MLRA SOIL SURVEY REGIONAL OFFICE (MO) RESPONSIBLE: Raleigh, North Carolina SERIES ESTABLISHED: Raleigh to New Bern Area, North Carolina, 1900. REMARKS: Durham soils were formerly placed in the Red-Yellow Podzolic great soil group. They ranged in texture of the B horizon from moderately-fine to fine, and in drainage from well drained to moderately well drained. This revision restricts the texture of the argillic horizon to fine-loamy and the drainage class to well drained. Here is a link that might be useful: Cecil soil (probably what you have)

Great thread! For cleaning -- mix of alcohol and water with a bit of lavender oil --got this from CatMom on Kitchens -- works well for stainless Also like Caldrea Basil Blue Sage --cleaner, dish soap, anything they make with this scent. Also like the old fashioned scent balls -- Aura cacia and others sell it -- because you can use pure oils. For my face: Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant -- it is expensive for what you get but it really does seem to make a difference. Tretinoin-- just the plain generic stuff -- and also some of the products from Skin Laboratory -- such as salicylic acid -- Shu Uemura eye shadow -- but they discontinued some of the best colors

(*****************This is a recipe that I have been using for five years. I sure hope it's okay: Granite Cleaner 1 pint alcohol 1 tablespoon dish washing soap 1 tablespoon ammonia 1 tablespoon white vinegar I use this to clean then occasionally use a stone polish.)* __________________________________________________ "If a cleaning product was not specifically formulated to clean while NOT interacting with the chemical makeup of the stone, it is not safe to be used, period." (You are killing me!) no no no no and no Please: if anything don't take my advice: read: www.countertopspecialty.com (they have a whole entire "101" on sealing: why we seal: when: how: and "Care "Cleaning" under: "How Granite countertop sealer works": "Granite Counter Top Care: Do's and Dont's" ~you are investing a good amount of money on "natural" countertops from the earth: Take proper care of them! What is the point in spending the money if you are going to use the same cleaner that you used on formic on your new granite or marble or caesar stone or slate or soap stone??? granite is made of 60% feldspar ; 20% quartz ; 10% biotite mica ; 10% hornblend : and epoxy or polyester resin are applied on the surfaces of the stone for polishing process. (chemicals) I will list just a few: Do's and Don't: (avoid bad habits) that MAY damage granite. Use granite care and cleaning procedures and products. You eliminate most potential problems without ever having to think to ohard about it or worry that you may be causing damage to your new countertops! NO acidic subtances: blot fast: wine, coffee, fruit juices, tomato sauce, or sodas, cooking oil, vinegar, citrus juice or products. ~avoid food and/or drinks containing acid. generic cleaning products: bleach, glass cleaner or degreasers: (dawn: cuts grease) OK: granite sealers are petroleum based sealers usually: and Dawn Soap was used to clean up oil spills; so not so good to use Dawn Soap on your granite that has a "petroleum" based sealer! ~~~~~These products that you buy at your local stone contain acids, alkalis and other chemicals that can etch or damage the countertop surface or degrade the granite sealer leaving the stone more VULNERABLE TO STAINING. Trying to save money up front by using cheap cleaners only may ensure that you will spend a lot more time and money on your granite: when you have to call a stone doctor to fix the surface shine of your granite. never: Vinegar, ammonia, lemon or orange cleaners, windex never bathroom, tile, grout cleaners never: leave "soap bar or despencer sitting on your granite" You may not see damage right away: but it will happen eventually. I tried a new product out on Friday: rated high and I like it: Stone Medic RX: heavy Duty Stone & Ceramic Cleaner: ecolabs: good link on tons of great cleaners: http://www.stoneworld.com/CDA/Articles/Feature_Article/BNP_GUID_9-5-2006_A_10000000000000150271 I have been using on my own granite for 18 months: www.stoneproonline.com can get that at www.hardrocktools.net (all over USA) There are other good granite/natural stone cleaners out there. \*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*EXCELLENT WEBSITE: THE PRO'S\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\*\* http://www.marblecleaning.org ALSO: MAY I ADD: NOT ALLLLL "GRANITE" MUST BE SEALED: (MEANING IF YOU HAVE (Anorthosite) that can't be sealed and does not need to be sealed: WILL ADD TO PROBLEMS ON YOUR SURFACE!) BLUE PEARL; EMERALD PEARL; VOLGA BLUE: BLUE EYES, LABRADOR ANTIQUE: BLACK PEARL: BLACK GALAXY: BLACK EYES; INARI WHITE & BLUE; (http://www.graniteland.com/stone/type/anorthosite) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anorthosite

Also, just an FYI, the reason you can't melt & remake the "soap" from the stores, is that it isn't soap at all..... What you buy in the stores, the commerically produced "soaps", are really detergent, NOT soap. The same basic ingredients are used to make comercially produced "soap" that are used to make laundry & dishwhasing detergent. That is why the comercially produced "soaps" have all those ingredients on the label-all chemicals- & why those products leave you with dry skin-all the benificial things like glycerin aren't there, or have to be added, but in such small quantities that they do no good. Once you have used good cold process soap, or M&P glycerin soap, you will see a trememdous difference in how your skin looks & feels & won't ever want to go back to store bought soap again. Okaay, time to step OFF the soapbox now....... Hazel