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Soap & Candle Making

Good, Simple CP Soap Recipe?

13 years ago

Does anyone have a CP soap recipe for using a combination of coconut oil, olive oil, shortening and canola oil, or any combination of the four? I don't have any palm oil, beeswax, shea butter or castor oil. I finally found coconut oil but now I can't find a recipe that uses only these oils I have on hand. Anyone?

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Comments (8)

Brent B
12 years ago
sameboat,

Try using a free soap calculator on the web.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sage Mountain website
sameboat
Original Author
12 years ago
That's a good calculator site - thank you!
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Hi Nancy, "It was a mix of sunflower, olive, and coconut oils. I measured everything correctly" Make sure that your scale is consistently correct. "according to the book, the soap traced as it should, Well, if youÂre sure. "I added the Fos" Fos for soap, vice candles? "I then started pouring the soap into the mould and YUK! It look like it curdled and kinda separated once in the mould. " What FO did you use? (Let me guess, a white floral? ( What temperature did you soap at? (The cooler, the better. Try around the 100F to 110F mark "I poured it back into the pot and tried to remix it, but it didn't remix completely. " Are you using a stick blender? Hope so. I poured the mix back into the mould and let it sit until tonight. "Took it out of the mould and noticed it was kinda floating in an oil/water mix. I would guess total amount of the oil/water floating around was at 1/4 cup in a 4 lb batch. " (Guessing): Either the wrong FO, or it wasnÂt mixed thoroughly enough. My question is...do you think this is going to be safe to use? The back of the book mentioned separation...a little separation was OK, but a lot meant a caustic soap. I have never had separation. If you think about it, your superfatting would be around the 5% to 8% mark of the total recipe. If youÂre looking at the percentage of oils/fats floating around in the mold, then I would HP it. "if you think this stands a good chance of being caustic, " If you measured everything correctly, then it would be lye heavy because all of the fats/oils didnÂt mix in with the lye solution thoroughly enough. You could HP it (crockpot? Maybe?) Into soap. I donÂt care for HPÂed soap, itÂs usually rustic looking, but it is soap, nonetheless. Usually, if you post the recipe and method of soaping that was used, maybe others might be able to pipe in?
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Carpe-Destiny
12 years ago
Thank you for the calculator url...great site!
Angelwings2ltd
12 years ago
Hello! Im new to the forum, but i am an avid soapmaker, who uses mostly oils from the grocery store. . .I also have 'rendered' my own beef tallow (which makes a nice hard soap!) Please Note: I use a 25% water discount, so you may add about 4oz. additional water to the amounts below. . .

anyway, here are 2 recipes/formulas for you to try (3-lb batch-- divide or double as you need)

16 oz. Store-brand Shortening (Not all-veg.)
8 oz. all veg shortening
10 oz coconut oil
8 oz. All veg. oil (soybean)
6 oz castor oil (Walmart has 6 oz bottle in H&B)
------------------
- 2 OPTIONS Here:

13 oz WATER mixed with
6.5 oz LYE
-----------------

2nd option:

6.5 oz. WATER mixed with 6.5 oz. LYE
ADD 6.5 oz coconut MILK to oils
and blend BEFORE adding Lye/water

This makes a decent *no frills* soap
--add scent before pouring.

-------------------------

NEXT Recipe:

No-Frills All Veg Soap

14oz Coconut
12 oz. Olive oil
8 oz soybean (vegetable oil)
6 oz Crisco (new w/palm)
4 oz Walmart all veg shortening
4 oz Castor oil
-------------------------
12.5 oz Total Liquid mixed with
6.5 oz LYE
-------------------------

As with any recipe/formula, it is best to run it thru a soap calculator-- I use soapcalc . net,

Hope this helps a little!

Here is a link that might be useful: soapcalculator
Angelwings2ltd
12 years ago
OOPS!! I guess I didnt read your post too well-- LOL

I have often substituted Olive or Soybean for the Canola, (Soybean oil has better properties than the Canola) and have used shortening (with animal fat) in place of the castor. Although it does give you a better kind of bubble by using the castor oil (available in the pharmacy part of any store).
signed, Angel
sameboat
Original Author
12 years ago
Oh wow - thank you! :) It's been a while since I've made any soap at all but I can't wait for the cooler weather to get here so I can start up again. I hate doing it when it's warm out. Thank you!
bsnyder
11 years ago
Hi there. Don't know if you're still into making cold processed soap, but here's another good hint for collecting your own tallow. I collect all of my strained hamburger and sausage fats in a clean shortening container, and keep it refrigerated until it's full. Then, you can boil the fats with water in a 2 qt. pan really hard for about 30 minutes. Let it cool, then refrigerate it overnight. The fat will rise to the top of the pan, hardened. You have to scrape the top and bottom of the cake, and pat it dry with paper towels, but it makes a great soap base tallow. I use a SAP value of .139 - the same as pork tallow, and the hamburger fat is a little lighter than beef fat that is rendered from rinds. Use about 10% of the weight with coconut oil, and you will have a very nice soap base that gives great lather. I've done this for about 4 years, and my wife and family are spoiled rotten on my soap - they will not use anything else.
Soap Manufacturing
7 years ago
Dear Soapmakers,

Regarding the Lye/Soap Calculator, we would like to invite you to try our Soap Calculator on our web-site.

the 1° Soap Calculator able to calculate also the % of Glycerin inside your soap !

We published our updated new Soap Calculator here: http://www.soapworld.biz/soap-calculator-handmade-soap.html

Good Soap !

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