I don't know that I mind that combination: all chrome and nickel sconces. Maybe do a mock-up? Can you order the sconces and have a chrome back-up plan? I planned on using all chrome and had installed a chrome shower/tub fixtures. Then I picked scones in antique nickel, so even though I had chrome in the shower, I decided to do polished nickel everywhere else. Well none of the nickel finishes match either, the sconces are "antique" and the faucet is noticeably warmer tone than the cabinet hardware and towel ring. I'm really happy with the look! But if I did it over, I probably would have just had the sconces in nickel and kept chrome everywhere else. I think my fear of the chrome fixtures mismatching the nickel sconces was unfounded. Chrome would have been cheaper and easier to pick a towel hook, TP holder, etc. Here's a pic of the vanity area. The chrome isn't in this view, but the mismatched nickels are. I think your choice is a bit riskier but I wouldn't discount the option off hand.

wryorwhite -- Don't be scared by all this talk of yellowing. It's exaggerated. Bear in mind that oil-based paint was essentially all that was used in American homes through the 1980s -- so unless you're a teenager, you were around when any house you'd walk into (including the one in which you grew up) had its walls painted with oil-based paint. Trust yourself and your own experience...do you ever remember walking into a house and thinking to yourself "My, these walls are awfully yellowed!"? I sure don't. When's the last time you've heard someone say "Oh, look at those walls! They've gone from looking like snow to looking like Big Bird! This is certainly oil-based paint!"? Never. Yes, oil-based paint yellows very slighly with time. So do all oil-based products, including the clear polyurethane with which wood floors are most often finished. This "yellowing" effect is minimal, and it's not something that jumps out at you or is offensive or anything like that. You have to actively look for it, and the only people who do that are (a) homosexuals, and (b) people who work in the marketing departments of latex-based paint companies. The drawbacks of latex-based paint have largely been resolved in the past few years. The latex-based paints of 2008 are a far cry from the ones of 20 years ago. This is especially true with the high-quality brands like Pratt & Lambert. Modern high-end latex pains bond to drywall well, hold up to moisture and cleaning well, etc. However - latex-based paints aren't as good as oil-based paints when it comes to moisture and dirt resistance, standing up to scrubbing, and bonding to wood. They never can be, because oil (unlike latex) naturally resists water, and naturally soaks into wood (rather than just sitting on top like a skin). Think of what happens when you mix oil and water -- they don't mix; instead, they just separate and keep apart. So moisture and dirt don't bond to the oil-based paint, so it's very easy to clean without damage. In addition, oil-based paint soaks into wood -- unlike latex-based paint, which forms into a skin that you can peel off. This is one of the big drawbacks of using latex paint on high-traffic wood items (like kitchen cabinets). My house has latex-based paint on the walls and ceilings, and oil-based paint on all the wood trim (including the doors and windows and cabinets) -- this is a time-tested and popular arrangement, and it has held up very well for me and my neighbors. Speaking of polyurethane -- there are two types, oil-based and water-based (latex-based) - same as paint. ALL of the manufacturers -- Minwax, Cabot, etc. -- recommend strongly in favor of using the oil-based polyurethane on floors. It's tougher, it holds up better to traffic and moisture, and this "yellowing" effect that the self-proclaimed experts yammer on about are so minimal as to be non-existent. The same is true with the oil-based vs. water-based (latex-based) paints. Again, trust yourself and your own experiences -- how many times have you walked into a home and thought to yourself that the painted walls and ceilings, or the wood floors, were yellowed?

I was confused about your bedding; I think it looks fine in your photoshopped pic! I thought you were using the patterned fabric as a comforter too; the cream comforter instead seems to balance the black better. I included the 60-30-10 link for you to figure out your colors---you've got gray, blue, cream, black... (or is that gray really more blue?). That link will help you figure out what to paint black and what to paint cream. If you're using your cream as the "10%", then her cream comforter is probably all you need in that room and painting any furniture "cream" would offset the percentages. As far as the size of your room and the amount/size/finishes of furniture---I don't think that's an issue. I've read a designer's book that purposely uses large furniture in a small room so the focus is on the furniture itself instead of realizing how tiny the room is. I would think you would be employing the same "trick". Another trick that I read to increase the size of the room is your furniture placement. When entering the room, if the eye can unobstructedly see the furthest angle/corner of the room, it will appear larger. I think Ttodd's personal rooms are inspiring. Similar to your daughter's inspiration photo, Ttodd's LR makes use of neutral textures, like the basket weaves. Your daughter has great taste and so refined!

I know what you mean! A simple project or errand just snowballs. Yes, I got the last 3 brown outlets they had at Menard’s. FWIW, I saw that Lowe’s had lots in black, too. It got my attention because I don’t remember that from the last time I needed some. I wanted a dimmer switch in brown, too, but had to give up on that one. I know I could probably find one mail order, but for one switch, don’t want to bother with shipping. That switch is in a weird place, right where the old and new wallpaper border runs through. Half the plate is on the border and half on the painted wall that has a faux finish. After thinking it over, I decided to make that one just blend in, more or less, and cover half with the border and paint the other half to match the wall (not easy to recapitulate the faux finish, since I don’t have those colors anymore, but I’ll try…). Oh, geez, there I go again…why don’t I just buy a “vanilla” switchplate and be done with it?! Why does this stuff become so complicated? !