Hi! I'm doing soy candles for the first time and tryed CB-135 with US ECSENTIA chocolate fudge FO (10%) The contaminar have 3" of diameter,. The candle looked lovely: smoth surface and very fragrant. 24h after, I Light the candles ( I make 3 diferent wicks: eco wick 4 ; eco wick 6 (following wick Guide) and small woodwick from 4CANDLES. Wick 6 did made a nice melt pool and the wick 4 also get the edges but not so quickly. The woodwick make the candle tunneling. The scent was perfect and I was confident. After reach a Good melt pool I let the candle burn for about 3 hours. When wax resolidify, There was an awful brown strip on the three candles on the place of the melting pools. Next day lighted the candles again: very poor scent, the melting pool get much more time to achieve but did with wick ECO 6 and ECO 4 and did not with woodwick. The colour of the surfaces get much more dark even. I try the same wax with diferent scents this time: 2 from 4candles and 1 from scent perfique. now I have to Wait 48h and then light then to see what happen. If someone did already face this problem, please help me.

Hello, I read your post and use to buy & sell Party Lite candles. I stopped using them when I found out that Party Light candles are not all made here in the USA which we did not like since we had no knowledge of the quality of the materials used in making their candles. We agree, Party Lite had a nice scent throw but the soot is far too much for our liking. We couldnt help wonder what it was doing to our lungs. So to find a healthier alternitive to burning candles, Many years ago, I became interested in making my own candles. I have sold them in my own retail locations for years. I have made all sort of candles using many types of waxes. Overall (next to beeswax) we prefer soy wax. There is no dispute that soy wax is a much cleaner wax to burn. We have had great results from our soy candles and our customers come back for more. We found that measuring our fragrances by weight, not by volume gave us a better scent throw. We also found that buying a higher quality of fragrance oil also worked well for us. At times, depending on the fragrance, we have used 1.5 ounces (by weight) of fragrance oil per pound of wax. Keep in mind, wax is like a sponge and can only hold so much fragrance oil. Too much oil and you can get the opposit effect and have a poor scent throw. It is important to mix the fragrance oils very well to make sure they bind to the wax. Without aggitating, we mix ours for about two minutes. Hope this is helpful. Debbie

I have done that before too and didn't have a problem with it. As long as the wax temp isn't going above the maximum melting temp (like around 185) it should be fine. As far as the candle frost goes, you may want to take into consideration the room temperature. I have found that during the summer when my home is nice and warm (over 70 degrees) my soy candles cool with pretty much no frosting, but during the winter, I have a much harder time if I don't keep the room warm. Also, you might try letting the wax cool to very slushy and then heat it back up again to 150 and then let it cool again to 100 degrees and then pour. I've experimented with this and it has given me beautiful tops! Here is a link that might be useful: Soy Candle Making Tips and Tricks

Soy candles can develop a "frost" because the wax on the surface crystallizes. You haven't done anything wrong. Your simple solution of buffing the surface until the frost is gone is the right one.