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Flagargoyle - X Post
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Posted by
idie2live (
My Page) on
Wed, Feb 3, 10 at 0:06
Hi All,
Anyone can weigh in, but I just wanted Flagargoyle in particular to look at this plan.
I have a laundry room that has a common wall with 2 bedrooms. There is a door from the bedroom on the right into the L/R. I would like to put a door from the other bedroom also to allow it access to the L/R. In order to do this, I will need to move the water heater and stack washer dryer (including water supply lines and drain). The current floor is cement. I want to raise it some. The wall behind the W/D is the bedroom wall. This is the wall with the supply lines. The other 3 walls are exterior walls. The supply lines come from under the house at the bottom of pics.
Photo on left is what I have now, photo on right is what I want to end up with.
 
The water lines and drain are currently directly behind the water heater.
The water and drain would need to be re-routed to new locations. The green shows doors already there. Orange and red show where supply could come from under the house to new location in a straight line.
Does this make sense or am I overlooking something? The contractor I talked to is trying to talk me out of this plan. He said there would be too many bends in pipe lines to run them from present location (between concret floor and under new floor). In my admitted ignorance, my first thought was, since pipes run vertically and horizonally all the time, he could run the water along the wall to the corner, bend 90 degrees and run it to location of appliances, then build new floor. Also, he mentioned problems accessing pipes if they leak, etc.
A second option is to go under the house and re-route pipes and drains so they enter laundry along the wall (where red and orange lines are).
I'm not sure if he just does not want to go under the house and re-route the pipes so that they enter the L/R in directly along the wall, or what? Am I missing something?
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Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| This could be way off and maybe more problems if you get a leak. When we built our house in Clayton we ran the water lines up the center house wall, stick wall, to the attic and across to the bathroom and kitchen and the down.. The problem with this is the one line coming down in the kitchen did show on the wall for a couple of foot. Shrug. We did not care. We lived in very cold country and it kept the lines from freezing. Also this was a log house and it would have been really difficult to run the water lines through the logs and impossible to repair if they leaked. Do not know what you do about the proper drain. Just a thought. Not sure it is to code. We did have all the proper inspections on our house and it passed.All states are different. Chris |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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The drain line and water line run under the house in the crawlspace, enter the L/R and attatch to the appliance. If I move them in the opposite corners, it seems like he could go under the house, direct the lines in the proper direction and they would enter the L/R alonsside the walls and go straight to the appliance.
I'm thinking that he does not want to go under the house. The crawlspace is only about 2' high and all of the heat/air ducts are under there - tight squeeze.
This is a new contractor I called for an estimate. My regular guy is too busy on his regular job to do it. It's hard getting used to the idea of using a different contractor! :( |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| Let's see if I get this straight. It looks like your laundry room is a small bump-out, with three outside walls, and the 4th wall is split between two bedrooms. I don't see any problem moving things around; the drain for the washing machine seems to be the only issue. If there is a footing under the the L/R (which there should be), it may extend under the walls for some distance, which could make it tough (or impossible) to put a drain against the outside wall. It's usually considered bad practice to put plumbing of any kind on an outside wall because of the possibility of it freezing. If you don't mind having the drain visible in the room, you could place it alongside the washer, and the hose would come around from the back. That should get it far enough away from the wall to clear the footing (if that's the problem). Likewise, your supply lines should be inside the room to prevent freezing. In re-reading your post- you said it's a concrete floor? It's pretty rare to have a concrete floor over a crawl space. Usually it's a slab-on-grade, often with a monolithic footer. If that's the case, you're talking cutting up the concrete to move the drains. That's what we have to do here in FL, as almost all houses are on a slab, with the plumbing underneath. You also mentioned building a new floor- above the old one, so it would be a step up into the room? That would work, assuming you could raise it high enough to allow a pitch to the drain. They can't be level; they have to slope downhill a little. It's possible- I've seen it done. Bear in mind- I'm neither a plumber nor an expert on code requirements, so my answers may be all wet (pun intended LOL). Fill in the blanks if I've misinterpreted what you meant. Jay |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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Thanks for responding Jay. Yes, I do want the pipes and drain to run along the wall inside the L/R. The house is over a crawlspace, the L/R seems to be on a concrete slab about 4 - 5' thick. The laundry floor is approx 2' below house floor level. I have 3 steps down into it and the steps eat up a lot of floor space. I want to raise it 12" and have only one step down. I can't raise it higher because of the height of the roof. This is a pic of the drain as it enters the L/R.
 
Ignore how dirty it is, please :) I am just trying to understand why he says we shouldn't run the lines along the wall. But it may very well have to do with the slope of the drain. Oh My! He just called to give me an estimate of a 2nd option we discussed, which would move the W/D to the closet in my kitchen. He's a little more expensive than I thought - so I need to obssess about this for a while. :( |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| 12" would be more than enough to run your drain. I think code is something like 1/4" per foot, so you're only talking a 2" drop across your room. You could run it straight over, too, eliminating a 90 degree corner. The less corners, the better, as far as clogs are concerned. |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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Happy Day! I decided to 'cold call' another contractor to see what he said. He said pretty much what you said. While he's here I think I'll just let him put up some new doors in the hallway;
Thanks, |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| Woo hoo Loretta. So happy to hear you found a contractor that is a little more helpful to you. |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| That sounds great! Show us some pics when it's done. |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| Amazing! I know you are pleased as punch that you found the right man to do the job... Looking good. |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| OH Loretta. So happy for you. Great you can get to your room now with out having to go through Sons room. I did not realize that was the case. I know it is a lot of work for you in clean up but in the end I think it will be great for you. Chris |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| Wow, Loretta, that was fast! Your new guy seems to be able to work without making a huge mess too - either that or you cleaned it up fast. How do you like it? |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| O, so wonderful for you! Congrats on getting it done in good time, and looks like a good job. :o) I always think that it's amazing how sometimes 'small things' (to some) make such a difference in our lives. I'm happy for you, Loretta! |
RE: Flagargoyle - X Post
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| I'm so glad it worked out! I guess the first guy didn't really want the work? Couldn't have been that hard, as fast as he got it done. |
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