In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process There are three things you have to do to get emails sent to you when someone posts to a thread you started: Be sure you have a valid/current email address in your profile Again in your profile, be sure you have the "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked (at the bottom of the profile page) Be sure to check the box labeled "Check here if you would like copies of follow-ups to your message emailed to you" when you submit your post. (Below the "Message" box) Hmmm...maybe a 4th step...don't forget to "Save Your Member Profile" when you make changes! (button at bottom of profile page) If you do all 3 (or 4!) things, you should get an email when someone posts to your message. Note: Some members have said they still have problems getting emails. I seem to always get emails, but I have noticed that occasionally there will be a several hour delay and once there was a several day delay...I don't know why. Also, check your Junk Mail, sometimes the emails end up there. Add "gardenweb_user@gardenweb.com" to your "safe senders" list as well. If you still don't get emails, check with your internet service provider and be sure emails from GW are not being filtered out as junk before they get to you.

There are times when someone would like to privately email a GW member - maybe they would like that person to check out their thread or maybe they have a question specific to that person's kitchen. In any case, the ability to privately email a GW member does exist. . . Emailing Members Etiquette There is "etiquette" involved in emailing others. If you email someone privately, it's common courtesy to be willing to reveal your email address to that person - especially if you want a reply. Anonymous emails are discouraged, even if you don't expect a reply. Another point, which shouldn't have to be mentioned but does: Be polite and don't "bully". Don't email someone to tell them you don't like something they said/did/etc. Many people find it easy to criticize/blast others b/c they are, for all intents and purposes, anonymous. Let's all adhere to the mantra: "if you don't have something nice to say, don't say anything". Lastly, please be aware of what we all agreed to when we signed up for GW: This form is not to be used for advertising or promotion. (This includes links to your own commercial sites in a signature) . . So, how do you email a GW member? First, be sure you have email turned on for your account: In the upper right corner of most GW pages, you will find a "Your Profile" link - select it. Scroll down to the greenish-yellowish shaded area at the bottom with all the checkboxes. Select "Members" from the dropdown box labeled "Show my email address to:" (As of September 2013, this does not appear to affect what is displayed in the "Posted by" line) Check the box next to "Allow other users to send you email from your profile page or if you wish to receive message reply notifications." Now, select the "Save Your Member Profile" button below the shaded area. You're done! You can now receive replies to your private emails. Note: If you don't want your email address showing up in general, then set the "Show my email address to" option to "Members" just before you send your private email and set it back to "None" after you've sent your private email. Next, you need to get to someone's "member page". There are several ways to do this: Option 1: Find a message the person has posted and open their page by selecting the "My Page" link next to their member's name in a message. For example: Posted by buehl (My Page) on Tue, Sep 24, 13 at 22:27 Note the "(My Page)" next to the member's name (in this case, "buehl"). Option 2: Use the URL below. Replace "" with the person's GW username: http://www.gardenweb.com/auth/nph-logincheck.cgi?action=public_profile&user= In the case of member "buehl": http://www.gardenweb.com/auth/nph-logincheck.cgi?action=public_profile&user=buehl Option 3: Use GW's "Member Pages" page. From the navigation bar along the top of most pages: Hover over the "Tools & Resources" option. A dropdown menu will appear. From the dropdown menu, select: Member pages Select the "Search for Members" link Enter the member's user name in the "Names beginning with" box Optionally, use one of the other search criteria as well Select the "Search" button In all cases, it will bring up that person's member page and, if that person is willing to allow others to email them, it will include a link that says "Send me an email". Select the "Send me an email" link. On the next page, enter: The Subject of your email - make it descriptive and informative Your message Optionally, check the box to "Send a copy of this to my email address" (This sends a copy of the email to your email address.) Select the "Submit your message" button The email will be sent.

Wow, no local rules about the junk or the loose animals? When you asked for a fast screen I immediately thought of my lonicera sempervirens which grows 15' every summer and stays green until frost. There are so many tendrils and vines that it easily obscures in the winter as well. Also may consider red twig dogwood? Both are native and attractive. Maybe ilex opaca as well? The flowers attract many pollinators and the leaves are thorny. This may not be an appropriate suggestion but it would be cheaper than a fence! Osage orange--used by farmers as living fences to contain and protect their livestock because of the massive thorns. Apparently useful for other things as well. Would rsearch this thoroughly! Keep us posted as to your decision.