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oceanna_gw

Help! Curtain brain teaser!

oceanna
16 years ago

I've sewn drapes and curtains before, but this has me baffled and I need advice. Please bear with me as this wasn't easy to write. Thanks in advance and I'm sorry for the length!

Here is the drapery treatment I want to make. I have no pattern for this. I have only the two photos you see here and I'm struggling to wrap my aging head around it. That's where I need help. These were made by someone to enter in a contest and I found the photo on the web and fell in love with them.

{{gwi:2071201}}

{{gwi:2071202}}

Okay, now are you laughing, or groaning, or both? ;-)

Can you wrap your head around this challenge? If you're still with me, here are my thoughts and questions on this.

WIDTH OF THE LONG PANELS:

My current situation is my starting point for taking measurements, so let me describe it. In my living room I have a window that is 96" wide from one outer edge of the frame across to the other edge. I have a short drapery rod on each end of the window and my curtains hang on clip rings. Notice how the rods (pic right below) are mounted more toward the outside of the window to keep the curtains from covering too much of the window.

{{gwi:2071203}}

My current curtains *appear* to be about 32" wide (each panel = 32") when hung in folds. This is not the spread out flat measurement and doesn't consider seam allowances. They look correct for the room so I'm thinking the new curtain panels should appear about the same, and with the same placement.

{{gwi:2071204}}

The advantage with my current curtains is they didn't take much fabric (that's a wide window). The disadvantage is I can't draw them so I have no privacy.

HEIGHT:

The proper *finished* height for the drapes that hang on rings from my current rods is 85-86" to just touch the floor. But I would like these new drapes to trail slightly on the floor, as shown in the photo. How much should I add to the finished length?

WIDTH FOR VALANCE TREATMENT:

I will need to make more of the upper valance panels than is shown in the above photo because my window is wider. Measuring my current draperies from outer end to outer end across the entire width of my window, I come up with about 130"-132" (wiggle room is cool). So I need to make enough valance pieces to cover that overall width. How do I best determine how many of these panels to make?

Once I know how many panels to make, I assume I just divide the total width (132" approx) by that number. Then I'll make a paper pattern for one of the pointy thingies, cut that in half, and trace around it to make another pattern that has seam allowances. Then I will cut out the required number of valance pieces. Make good sense?

OR...

It appears one could take a rectangle of fabric, lay it flat, fold it in half, then sew from the center edge (this would be the bottom of the point) up at an exact 45 degree angle to the top. Wouldn't this be the easy way to make these points? Or would that waste too much fabric? Thinking of it this way, it seems like the easy way to do this would be to make a cloth mockup, then figure the length I want it to hang, then multiply it out to cover the whole width of the window coming close to what I want. That would determine how many panels I need. Would that be the way to do it?

VALANCE CONSTRUCTION:

In the photo the curtains appear to be attached directly to the rings. Is that the way to go? Does that weather dry cleaning? Or would it be better to use clip rings as I have now?

It looks to me like each panel of the valance has been sewn to the one next to it, as there appears to be no separation between them. I think this would be a good idea so the valance pieces wouldn't be gapping and I wouldn't have to fuss to get them to hang right and cover up what is behind them. I suspect I'm talking about quilt-making type of precision cutting and sewing here?

I'm imagining that the pointy panels could share a common lining and the lining could be cut on the straight grain. Does that sound reasonable? The lining itself would probably need to be pieced in the back a couple of times. Would you cut the lining on the straight grain? Or is there good reason to mimic the printed fabric with the lining and cut it on the bias repeating all those seams? Would you sew the lining to it, leave an opening, turn it through the opening and then hand stitch the opening?

Each of the pointy things also appears to have piping/cording around it. Should I take double piping up into each seam between the pointy panels? Or just leave the joining seams plain and only run the cording along the bottom? Would the best way to do this be to simply purchase pre-made cording with a lip on it?

I measured for the depth of the valance (floor to ceiling/vertical) using my current curtains as a guide. It appears the *finished* panels would need to hang down about 12-14" on the straight part where they are seamed together, before they taper into a point. The downward point would extend down longer. This will allow the valance to cover the top of the window frame as hung from a rod that is placed at the same height as my current rods, and it could also cover the rods that support the curtain panels, and the sheer panels.

How much yardage do I need for the valances if the fabric is 54" long? I don't know how to figure that out.

THE LONG VERTICAL PANELS:

Okay, now I'm really stumped. The curtain part that hangs down reminds me of a gored skirt that flares at the bottom and is narrower at the top. Imagine they were laid out flat on the floor. Do you think they form a rectangle that simply has tuck pleating of some type at the top? Or are they actually the shape of a piece of pie with the tip cut off and then tuck pleated at the top? They do appear to be loosely pleated at the top, with the pleats facing in toward the center of the panel on both sides. How do you think that was done? Were they just folded inward toward the center point, and then basted along the top before lining them?

FABRIC CHOICE

Doesn't it look like these were done in maybe a silk taffeta? Or? I haven't sewn silk before -- how much of a pain in the neck is it? Should I look for a particular weight beyond it just saying it's drapery fabric? Is drapery fabric silk easier to sew than shirt-weight silk? Would it be signifigantly easier to sew them in cotton drapery fabric?

I doubt sincerely I can find any fabric with the dots like that one has. Will it still look great with just plain stripes, and possibly in three colors instead of two?

LINING

What fabric do you recommend for lining? Should I cut the PANEL lining pieces exactly as I cut the striped pieces because it would hang better or something? Or would you make the lining in one piece on the straight grain?

Again, I want these panels to each appear approx. 32" wide at the top as they hang. We know that with normal curtain panels we want 2-3 times the width of the window in fabric. Do you think these panels follow that same rule (if they're rectangular)? Or?

I'm trying to visualize the layout of the long panel fabric on the diagonal and I'm not sure if it can be accomplished without piecing it? Did whoever sewed this have access to fabric wider than 54"?

How in the world do I figure out how much yardage I need for this project? Can you help me out? This makes my head hurt!

CURTAIN RODS:

It looks to me like I will need three rods:

1.) The inner (closest to the window) rod would hold plain cream fabric with a rod pocket at the top. This layer can be pulled all the way across the window for privacy. It would "L" turn back to the wall at the outer ends. I know how to figure the yardage for that.

2.) The next rod outward from the window would hold the long panels of drapes that would likewise turn back to the wall at the outer ends. These drapes would not pull shut. Now please look at the panel on the right. The front-upper panel is striped and only hangs half way to the floor; the back panel is solid and goes clear to the floor. Wouldn't you want to attach those two together at the top and hang them as one piece from the same rod? These two rods could both be simple ugly metal utility rods, but they would need to be hidden behind the valance so you don't see them.

3.) The outermost rod would be the decorative straight rod that only holds the valance. Does that sound correct to you?

OR...

If you look at the closeup picture, does it look like the valance and the panels are all hung on the same decorative rod and the cream colored curtains are on a second rod? If that is the case, then how are the valance panels and the long drapery panels attached to one another at the top? I just don't get how to do that and have the valance lie so nice and flat.

Finally, are you able to look at the photo and see how these were made? Do you think you could do it yourself? Or would you advise me to run away from this project as fast as I can go and pick something simpler? Even if I don't end up making them I'd still like to figure out how it was done. It's like a jigsaw puzzle to me now! lol

Thanks a million if you read this far!

Comments (16)

  • clt3
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    OK - I've made a lot of curtains and draperies, but I'm not sure I would try to tackle these without a much better look at how they were constructed. A couple of thoughts though, I know that the valance part looks better with an odd number, therefore I would do either 5 or 7 pointy things. I doubt very much that the fabric was wider than 54 - 60". That means a lot of piecing. I think the lining should be cut on the straight of grain. That would help stabilize all of the pieces that are basically bias cut. Usually stationary panels are just 1 width of fabric. These, however, look like they could be wider, with a large tuck in the middle where the stripes meet. I think you would need to sew together 2 widths of fabric for the left panel, cut them horizontally and piece back together after turning them 45 degrees. I'm just not sure how much fabric you lose by turning them at this angle. At least the one on the right has an angled hem, so you don't lose much. To me, it looks like both the panel and valance are attached with drapery hooks to the same hole in the large drapery ring. I don't think I would try these without investing in a lot of cheap sheets to try to use to make a mock up. Good luck.
    .

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you so much for your answer! Good point about the odd number and I might not have thought of that.

    When it comes to making the lining on the straight grain and the front piece on the diagonal, that makes sense if the hems of both are independent of one another. If these were pieced, and I can't see how they wouldn't have to be, someone did a superb job of it.

    Do you have any guesstimates on the amount of fabric I'd need? And do you think those panels are more pie shaped, or rectangular? Thanks!

  • momfromthenorth
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oceanna, I've done alot of sewing and think maybe I can help you a little with these. However, I agree with what clt3 said above.

    Yes, the valance pieces have been sewn together. And yes, if you use striped material, this is going to require very exact matching and sewing.

    If I were making these, my first order of business would be to make ONE of the valance panels out of some $1/yd (aka cheap) striped fabric so I could get a feel for how wide each piece needs to be, etc. I have one of those rigid quilting graph/rulers that is hard plastic, and is 6.5" x 24". I would use this as a template and first cut out 2 rectangles, then decide how much of an angle you want for the V of the valance panel. That way you can accurately mark off where to cut it on each side to make the \/ cuts. Cut one piece like this \, then the other the opposite direction, like this /. After you've sewed those two pieces together down the middle, like this, \/ then iron them and lay them out to cut your lining on the straight grain.

    Then see how much fabric you've used to make the one piece and multiply it by the # you're going to need to go across your window for your valances.

    The bottom hem of the drapes is straight across, just a few inches longer. They've just floofed them out. It looks like there is a pin-tuck of some sort up under the valances. But I would just add a few extra inches to your panels and play with the hem to get the look you want before you sew in the hem.

    However, the part that's going to be almost impossible to duplicate is the long striped \/ drapes. The fabric had to have been either wider than 54" or printed on the bias in order to get those wide panels in the \/ shape. You might have luck if you can find a wide, striped tablecloth or sheet.

    Don't know where you would source wide silk like that. Yes they would look nice without the polkadots. And I would use regular drapery-lining fabric, sold at most fabric stores.

    "Imagine they were laid out flat on the floor. Do you think they form a rectangle that simply has tuck pleating of some type at the top?" yes. At least in the center of each long \/ panel.

    The fabric does look like silk but it would be very expensive to make. Taffeta is easy to work with if you have a serger. If you want to be able to wash these yourself later on, be sure to prewash any fabric before you cut it out.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks, Sippimom, for further helping me to visualize the structure and layout of this treatment!

    The angle on the points must be 45 degrees so it will parallel the stripes. Yes, the sewing would have to be precision (and tension adjusted properly on the machine for even feed) so that the stripes matched ecactly... but that's the same as with working with any stripes or plaids. Seems to me that working on the bias would make it easier to match those stripes perfectly as you have a little give in your fabric.

    Thinking about this, since the fabric is 54" wide, to figure out the piecing I think I need to divide a 54" x 54" square diagonally. At any rate, it seems you'd only get 54" down the outside of one long panel on the outer edge, and then have to piece. Your idea about bedsheets is interesting. Thanks for reminding me they're a bigger hunk of fabric. I used a bedsheet to cover a wide roller blind for that reason a few months ago.

  • RNmomof2 zone 5
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The other issue that hasn't been addressed is the width of the side panels. If I understand correctly the side panels should be near the width of your existing panels. That width looks to be much wider than the pictures drapes. This makes getting that wide of fabric on the diagonal hard to do without many seams(it would seem! ha ha)

    My suggestion would be to take some graph paper and try to mock this up before even trying it with fabric. You could draw or copy stripes on the paper and then cut, fold etc something that is a much more manageable size to get an idea of how it would work and yardage required. HTH

  • clt3
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Unless that fabric was printed (or woven) with diagonal stripes, I can pretty much guarantee that the panels were pieced. To me it looks as if the angle is 45 degrees. I really can't wrap my head around trying to figure out how much fabric you'll need, that's why I suggested lots of cheap sheets (preferably striped). Seems like you should be able to figure it out using trigonometry, but it's just not coming to me. Also, if you plan on using silk, I would use a microtex needle.

  • sheesh
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It's a stunning treatment that is going to take A LOT of fabric to match those stripes! I think Sippi is right - the side panels are straight, not shaped, and they are "puddled" on the floor. One thing about puddling - they are huge dust collectors and a nuisance to clean around.

    The cream undercurtains are hung on a separate rod, probably a traverse rod for drawing. I think the hems of the valance could be either sewn so the brown stripe looks like edging or it could actually be piping or bias binding.

    As for sewing silk: It's much easier to sew natural fabrics (silk, wool, cotton, linen, flax...) than synthetics because they give and drape and flow. Synthetics don't. You will have far less trouble matching stripes in silk than synthetic. That goes for the lining, too. Use 100% cotton or linen lining fabric for ease of handling.

    There are beautiful dupioni silks that will drape and puddle perfectly and have a lovely sheen that would lend themselves to this treatment. Do you have a particular fabric in mind yet? Are the undercurtains going to be silk, too?

    My advice for this project: "Or would you advise me to run away from this project as fast as I can go and pick something simpler?" Y!E!S ! ! But I wish you good luck and admire you for even considering such an undertaking! If I lived nearby I'd love to help, because two heads are better than one and together we could do it.

    KEEP US POSTED!!!
    Sherry

  • daisyadair
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Here is a link to a pattern which might help you get closer to the look you are needing. It's the one in the lower left corner.

    Here is a link that might be useful: 2 yards or less valences, plus panel fabric

  • momfromthenorth
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So I've been sitting here looking at those drapes and thinking that there are some other alternatives than just totally abandonning this complex sewing project.

    1. You could make just the valances as they are \/ and then do your drapes with the stipe running vertically. I think the effect would still be stunning.

    2. Make the valances in the \/ and do a solid drape on each side with a coordinating underpanel. Much less fabric waste this way! (Easy to visualize if you put your hand over the left drapery panel in the photo above that you posted.)

    Back to the original problem...The other way to pull this off is to piece 2 stiped pieces of 54" wide fabric together widthwise, netting one large piece that is 108" wide. Then laying out the rectangle that you need for each side piece of drape. But you will have to make 2 of these 108" wide pieces, laid out so that the stripe goes in opposite directions in order to get that \/ pattern. There is going to be ALOT of wasted fabric. I just drew it out on a piece of striped paper, which I suppose you could use for making the valance pieces.

    I've tackled many a challenging sewing projects in my day and I think I'd opt for options 1 or 2 above and move on. Just my humble thoughts... :)

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Rnmomof2, in lieu of graph paper, I did a mockup in my photo program because I don't have a drawing program... and if I did it right I can get that long left side panel out of two pieces, totalling about three yards, maybe 4 to be safe. That means that panel on the left would require a whopping 6+ yards!

    I should double-check that on paper, though. At work we used to have huge rolls of graph paper on vellum, which would have been perfect. But in the real world those are very hard to find and cost a ridiculous amount. But I do have big plain paper and a ruler. I'll just have to figure out a scale. If I did it right, that would mean one diagonal seam in each of the sides of that panel and the entire panel would take six yards. There would be a lot of "waste" on that and I'm hoping I could get out at least some of those upper pointies out of that.

    Clt3 -- Thanks about the needle! You're right, the ideal and easy solution would be to find fabric that was printed with diagonal stripes. I looked on both eBay and Fabric Guru sites tonight, plus just tried to Google it. Does anyone have any other suggestions for good places to look online?

    Sherrmann, thanks for letting me know you appreciate that treatment like I do. I agree, it's stunning. I'm going with you and Sippi on that the panel is a rectangle. Good point about puddling -- I can just see the vacuum sucking those babies up!

    I found a double rod that is long enough here:
    http://www5.jcpenney.com/jcp/ProductsHOM.aspx?GrpTyp=SIZ&ItemID=117adfc&RefPage=ProductsHOM&CmCatId=25437:28415:50246&cmOrigID=104f2d9&cmPosID=1

    Your tip about sewing natural fabrics prompted me to look up sewing on the bias and the fabrics I found recommended were "cotton, linen, silk broadcloth, and wool challis." EBay does have some striped linens. They won't shine, but I think it could still be pretty. I'm thinking about it. The article I read said stay away from "most rayons (stretches like crazy), silkies and polyester (slippery and hard to handle), twills (lose definition), and fabrics that are heavy or stiff, like duck or poplin. Silks and sheers like crepe de chine, charmeuse, and georgette are beautiful on the bias, but these hard-to-handle fabrics aren't a good place to begin. Move up to silky fabrics once you've conquered the stable ones."

    No particular fabric in mind yet. I've determined that it must be a symmetrical stripe -- otherwise if you turn it the other direction your stripes can't match up. I'm a little tight on color selection to go with my furniture, too. My couch and chair should return from the upholsterer in a couple of days (we held off today because of incessant heavy rain) and then I'll get a better feel for if I have to re-cover another piece (I can do that one myself), and if I want to use what I've already got or find something else... and I'm a bit limited there too, as it needs to warm the wood, not chill it. Anyway, that's why no I haven't zeroed in on a fabric yet.

    I wish you lived nearby too! Are you in the Seattle area?

    Daisyadair, thanks for the link. It won't help me on yardage, because of the bias, but I did determine from reading it that 5 pointies is a good ballpark for what would look good in the valance. Now I have to see if I can make that work out aesthetically.

    Sippi, you're right, it would not be hard to just make the valance parts, and it would be much easier to cop out on the panels, and cheaper too. But I personally think the charm is in the entire look of it, not particularly in the valances. I have a favorite site for valance patterns and I think some of those are much prettier. (Southern Living) So depending on what I find out are the yardage requirements, this is still an option... another treatment entirely. I'll be looking those over again before I make a final decision.

    That's an interesting theory about seaming the two 54" pieces together -- but don't I end up with an extra seam in the panels that way?

    I don't know if this will make sense to anyone else, but here is what I made in my photo program. I left a wee bit of the red corners (the red being the 1/2 of the entire panel shape including seam allowances) sticking out just so I could see where they were, then added the dotted lines, and here's what I came up with:

    {{gwi:2071205}}

    The blue edged white squares represent the yardage (54" square, IOW 1 yard). The arrows show which direction the fabric could be longer and also indicate the direction of the stripes. The 1/2 yard was just a visual guess -- seems it would be less on the lower piece and more on the higher piece. Naturally, when I'm done ballparking the entire yardage I'll add some just to be safe.

    I've tackled a lot of tough sewing projects too, and I think this is doable. But the burning question is how bad would that diagonal seam look in the panel? In its defense, it does travel the same way as the stripes, which might make it harder for the eye to pick up... but it's easy to imagine hitting it with an iron and having it define itself.

    If it wouldn't look good, the only answers are either hold out for a piece of fabric printed on the diagonal that is the right color and pattern (good luck!) or give it up, at least somewhat smug that I've mostly figured it out. lol!

    I did see one piece on eBay that was tons of yardage and 54" wide, but the color was wrong for my living room unless I change the color of my fainting couch to something I haven't yet found. I'm hemmed in by two things: 1.) The couch and chair are about to return from the upholsterer all rebuilt and covered in deep tomato red mohair velvet, and 2.) the fainting couch wood sings with warm earth tones, but dies with blues and greens or grey tones on it.

    Bringing a room together sure is a bear in the planning stages, isn't it?

    Again, thanks everyone! If I build these I will for sure post a picture here for you all to see. At this point my next plan is to mock this out on paper, and try to get the remainer of it included so I can make an educated guestimate at the amount of yardage I need.

    But I'm still interested in everyone's opinion on if that seam could be pulled off in each half of the panel without looking crummy. I'd hate to go to all that expense and work and then have a bad result. What do you think? I'm thinking it might depend on the type of fabric I use, but I don't know which type would be better or worse.

    If nothing else, if I cop out and do a different valance and plain panels, I'll be appreciating how easy it is compared to this! :-)

  • clt3
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I think you could definitely piece the two panels together without the seam being very visible. I've made wide swags and the only way to do them was with piecing. Careful piecing and pressing and the seams are virtually invisible.

  • momfromthenorth
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What program are you using Oceanna to make your diagram above? Yes, that's how I drew it out but I seamed the two 54" pieces together, but not staggered. If your pieces are longer than 54" (I'm assuming you're showing 2 (two) 54" square pieces of fabric above), say 81" long (which is 54*1.5), then you will have one quite huge piece to work with to get your long diagonal pieces.

    Remember though...to get the \/ look, you are going to need to cut 2 long rectangular pieces with the stripes going in the opposite direction for each long piece.

    Try laying this out on graph paper to get the geometry of it, (exact numbers) then you could figure out exactly how much material you'll need for that pesky left side panel.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Clt, thanks. I think the eye won't be looking for a seam there -- but wouldn't some types of fabric hide the seams better than others? Any thoughts on that?

    Sippimom, that's just my oooooold Jasc Paintshop Pro 9. It's tryly not built to draw on. To draw a straight line I select an area with a thin box and draw inside the box. lol! I desperately need a good drawing program.

    Yes, I'm showing two 54" squares there, and the arrows indicate which direction the stripes go and where you could make the pieces as long as you want.

    For the pointy pieces I figure I can cut two long rectangles, one with the stripes going one direction, and one with them going the other direction. Then I would cut between the stripes in the center. One rectangle would give me two left halves, and the other would give me two right halves. But with the "waste" on the diagram I drew, I should be able to get some pieces out of there.

    Question: For the dark solid panel on the right that is full length, wouldn't you cut that on the bias too, so that both the left and the right hang the same?

    So I'm thinking it would take 6-7 yards of the striped just for the full panel on the left and the short panel on the right would take another three plus. Just guessing I'm *guessing* a 12 yard piece of the stripe should be plenty, plus 6 yards of the dark? Or is that too much? Seems to me I could buy sheers to go underneath to save $$? I could/should map this out on paper more accurately, but for now this is a guess.

  • clt3
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I agree with sippimom. You just need to make those panels longer than 54" - enough to cover all of the solid red area that you have shown above. If you assume the panel you did was 27" (so that when you sew 2 together you get 54"), you could do it to scale on graph paper using 2.7" I don't know how long your panels need to be, or I would try to draw it for your. My preliminary estimate using sippimom's 81" cut for each piece is about 9 -10 yards just for the panel on the left.

  • oceanna
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Clt3,

    Yes that was the intention, to make those 54" panels longer. Oops. I was taking the 54" as 36" wasn't I? My bad! 54" x 3 = 4.5 yards per side. Egads. You're right. That's a LOAD of fabric! It's looking like this treatment might run about 30 yards total. Ouch.

    Glad you posted!

  • sheesh
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Bump. Do you think you'll do it, Oceanna? Well, after the holidays, I mean. -Sherry

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