You can pound the seams flat w/ a rubber/wood mallet, but the technique is usually to trim them very close - since leather does not ravel - & yes, contact cementing the seams down is another technique, but it's best, I think, for thin leathers like suedes.There is also a technique which involves slicing off the thickness of the SA - tapering it to the edge.

Heat from an iron will not really do the job - I've never heard of pressing leather w/ an iron & I'm afraid it would damage the finish....?

Are you using leather needles?They have a sharp, 3-sided point that pierces, rather than punches your stitches.You can use a heavier thread & a long stitch (6-8/inch).

I'm sure there's a webpage (or 2) on leather sewing techniques - I'll have to look later.

When I took a seminar with Sandy Scrivano on sewing leather, she said to sew it with a leather needle, then use a rubber cement to make the seam allowances lie flat. She used a roller, not an iron. She was talking about clothing though, so I'm not sure if this translates to a bag. I have a leather handbag that the edges are just sewed about 1/4" away from the edge and the edges are left as is. It is VERY heavy leather though.

She has a bag pattern that sounds like the one you're talking about, and she has written a book. Maybe your library has it?

Sewing with Leather and Suede by Sandy Scrivano. It is pretty cheap used on amazon.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sewing with leather video link

I got my first leather coat/jacket in high school. It came with instructions to press, if necesary, using paper such as a brown grocery sack on top of the coat. That was where I got that idea.

I am using leather needles & am wondering if I need to do something to the bobbin & use the thicker/heavier thread there too. I am using a long stitch to keep from preforating the seam allowances too much.

The leather I am using is Italian & rather thin & very soft & pliable. It was advertized as upholstry weight.

I have seen the shaved edges but I'm guessing it takes somekind of special tool to cut that beveled edge.

I will try the rubber mallet along with the contact cement glue & see how that does.

Leigh, I will check into your links. Thanks for the ideas.

My friend used to make stage clothing for country singers and always pounded seams, then glued. She sewed them with quilting thread; even for tight pants. Same for attaching different colored pcs. on outside of garment such as each feather of an eagle's wings.

Suzi

Thanks for the new hint to use quilting thread. I will try it. I have used the cement glue & the wall paper roller with good results. The seams flattened out real good. The pocket flap that I was worried about really looks nice now. I am to the thick parts now & getting more nervous as I proceed. I am to turning the handles too. Short section fine...haven't sewn the long one. Too scared!!!

I sew custom leather clothing and purses. Never use cotton thread. Only use 100% poly, nylon, rayon, or silk thread. Sew the seam. Then use rubber cement for the seams. Turn the bag to the right side and top stitch on each side of your original seam. The seam will be flat! NEVER IRON LEATHER...IT WILL SHRINK AND/OR BECOME WITHERED AND DAMAGED!

I am in the middle of a leather bag, that has pleats in the top part. I decided to do a leather facing and topstich it afterwards to lay the leather flat. However, I ran into a problem. It started to leave scuff marks on the underneath (facing) part of the fabric. Is it because of the thickness? What can I do to avoid this problem? I also just purchased an industrial machine that is older 28years...but now it's skipping stiches and is breaking the needles. What should I do and should I go back to the regular machine and avoid pleats that cannot be flattened.

Try putting some tissue paper or paper towels or something very lightweight underneath for the scuff marks. It's probably a little too thick which is causing it to push down against the feeddogs and leave the marks.
What kind and brand is the industrial? Not all straight stitch industrials (especially the very old ones) can handle heavy and thick fabrics. You probably should be using a walking foot industrial for what you're sewing. Have you tried a thicker needle, like a size 18 or 20? Check and make sure there's no broken bits of needle under the feeddog which may be causing the skipping.