Alteration question

14 years ago

I am making a formal gown, with princess seams. There is a link below to the pattern. Sorry, I don't know how to make the picture show up here.

Anyway, she tried it on, and there are small wrinkles that begin about the waist, or maybe slightly below, and go up diagonally across the side back for maybe 3". I don't know what adjustment to make to eliminate these wrinkles. She is very short, only 4'11", so I thought maybe the back waist length was wrong, but I checked it. I made this same pattern for her about 10 years ago, but she was a different size then (same height). I didn't have the problem then, so is it a function of her slightly expanded measurements? And how do I correct it?

Thank you!

Here is a link that might be useful: The pattern

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Comments (6)

oilpainter
14 years ago
If the wrinkles are straight across it may be too tight and pulling. Have you trimmed back the seams? Can you let it out a little in that section of the side seam. If you have 5/8 seam allowance. With 4 seams you should be able to get her an extra inch or so
budster
14 years ago
My first thought after seeing the pattern was "I wonder if it was cut on the correct bias as was noted on the paper pattern piece", my second thought was "could it be the fabric itself, or maybe even the weight of the fabric that is causing this problem"....... I would try oilpainters solution as a first solution - the ladies slightly expanded size would make a difference on how it hangs as well so you are correct there. Good luck, keep us posted. Budster
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aok27502
Original Author
14 years ago
I left plenty of seam allowance, so I have lots of room to alter it. I made this same pattern for a wedding party, and it seemed to run small, so I learned. :)

It isn't cut on the bias, it's straight to the grain. My mama taught me well to lay out straight, so that isn't the problem. The fabric is satin. I really think it is probably in her dimensions. I think this pattern is designed for tall and well proportioned and she is well .. neither.

I guess I'll push and pull and see which direction it needs to go. Fortunately, she is family so she's patient!
budster
14 years ago
Could it be the stitch length.....especially with the extra "pulling" due to the ladies increased size in that area...stitching might not be the problem anywhere else but all it takes is a little extra pulling for those wrinkles to appear. Just a thought. Budster.
sheesh
14 years ago
I've made that very pattern for different people in several different fabrics: velvets, silks...perfect; polyester satin, it wrinkled as you describe; and linens and cottons, also perfect. I'm guessing you are using polyester satin.

I concluded that polyester satins do not curve and adapt well to princess seams, whereas natural fabrics do.

Since you have to use the fabric you have, I guess making the dress as loose as you can might help. It's a beautiful dress, very flattering to everyone I've made it for. I hope you get a good result.

Sherry
jaybird
14 years ago
I have found that slightly clipping the seams (even where you might not ordinarily clip), will help satin cooperate!