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ravenwannabe

Pant fitting problems

ravenwannabe
15 years ago

Due to an accident, my right leg is about a ½ inch shorter than the other. This causes the right leg on the pants I am trying to make to form never ending cascades of "smiles" in the back from the crotch to the knee. IÂve already adjusted the paper pattern by shortening it on the recommended line. But, by eliminating that depth of fabric, it automatically shortens the depth of the crotch from the crotch to the waist.

Eight or nine pair of pants currently hanging in my closet have this affliction and may never see the light of day again.

So, I bought a new pant pattern. According to the sizing chart, my hip measurement says to use a size 14 pattern. I am 5 feet tall and weigh 110 lbs. The problem arises at the crotch level and below. The back is extremely full and I donÂt know what to do with all that fullness. Not only that, the width of the legs are huge and I donÂt know what to do about that either. Can I cut the leg from the bottom hem to the crotch between the seams? Would that solve anything? Does anyone have any recommendations, suggestions or solutions to my fitting problem? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Comments (5)

  • pattiohio
    15 years ago

    Hi,
    To address your horizontal wrinkle, smile, usually caused by the crotch length is too short, and it also effects the inseam fit.
    Should be adjusted front and back. Sound like you adjusted the Shorten line too much.
    I am 5'2" and have a higher waist line so do not touch the s/l line in that area.
    Think 1/2 inch for first adjustment if needed and 1/4 inch after that.
    Do you have any books with adjustments that would show you about pants fitting?

  • ravenwannabe
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Thanks for your suggestions. I've looked at several books but am still having trouble making things work. I will try what you suggest. Thanks again.

  • pattiohio
    15 years ago

    Suggestions

    Site listed below.

    Check with your friends or local library.
    Sewers always have books they are willing to share.

    Try and find something with pictures, have sewn for over 45 years still like the pictures.

    Fitting Finesse by Nancy Zieman.

    Have you tried to google sewing pants that fit or alterations on pants tutorial?
    Hate to see someone spend money on a bunch of books if they can get the information free, once you get the right technique you can use it on most of your pants.

    Here is a link that might be useful: pants that fit

  • bonnie-w
    15 years ago

    Hi: Try looking in the Vogue patterns at Sandra Betina pants. Her instructions are very good and alterations are to.

    Bonnie

  • joansews4u
    15 years ago

    I would cut from cheap fabric (some Walmart's till have fabric & have the dollar tables.) I would baste &/or pin on that & then use it for my pattern. Someone else can pin on you better than you can your self. Are you using a pattern with a waist band or elastic? If you are using elastic, you can get the pants trimmed to fit you in the waist length area...leaving a 5/8s seam allowance. Then cut a waist casing for your elastic & sew it on your new adjusted waist length. This method works good for those with larger rears, smaller rears or a tummy that takes up crotch length. Just add or take away fabric & the top edge will no longer be straight so you could turn down fabric for a casing but you can cut & add a straight casing to run your elastic through.

    Is your extra fabric in the rear making them too big around? If so & with the legs being too big, you may be using a pattern that is too big. Some garments have a "relaxed" fit & just run bigger than other styles in the same size. Your pattern should state the finished size on the pattern pieces. Compare that to your measurement. 2-3inches more than your measurement should be about right for some ease but not be too loose.