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Posted by ridgestitcher (My Page) on
Sat, Jul 14, 07 at 22:33

Can anyone provide instructions on how to alter an empire-waisted jacket for a large bust? The pattern doesn't have an alteration line. I am undecided if I should add the length to the bottom or if I should add my own alteration line and lenghten the pattern at the bust apex.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Alterations

I think it may be easier to find the pattern in your correct bust size.....?

(Sorry if this is unhelpful)

RE: Alterations

Most patterns are designed for a "B" cup bra size. I'm assuming you need to add more fullness over the breasts to accomodate a cup size greater than a "B"?

This is a tough question to answer simply. There are a lot of variables to consider; first and foremost how much "ease" has been factored into the pattern. Have they given you a point of bust dot on the pattern pieces for the front of the jacket? (they used to!). If they have, you can measure from the side seam to the center front mark over the point of bust mark and jot it down. Do the same thing for the back piece(s) and jot that down, too. Add the numbers and subtract the bust size for the pattern size you're making. The answer is the amount of "ease". Measure the over the point of bust (starting at the side seam and measuring to the centre front) on the body the jacket is to be made for. Do the same thing for the back. Compare the numbers to arrive at the amount you have to add to the pieces. Slash to the point of bust on the pieces and spread them the amount required.

It's not an easy operation; and cup size makes all the difference in the world when making a fitted garment. You can have a size 8 frame, but if you have a full busline the circumference measurement can dictate a size 14! the point is, you have to know WHERE to add the extra and how to measure for it.

I could show you how to do what you want to do, but I am really struggling to convey it to with words. Maybe someone else you link to more visual information to help you...

RE: Alterations

Frankly I would choose another style pattern. A large bust and empire line is not a good combination because the front will never hang straight and hang out like a pregnancy dress. I have large busted relatives I learned this fact and never saw them in an empire line anything unless they were pregnant.

RE: Alterations

Perhaps you HAVE such a jacket that you can measure by, or go to the store and find one then measure it. Transfer the measurements to the pattern. Salena

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