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hemming jeans

Posted by donnas (My Page) on
Wed, May 20, 09 at 13:12

My neighbor has asked me to shorten 3 pairs of jeans for her. I've hemmed jeans in the past for myself but was never really satisfied with the outcome. A couple questions:

1) How do you sew over the "hump" (side seam) without having one big stitch or a bunch of tiny stitches? I remember reading something about using a credit card, but I'm not sure how. Behind the needle or in front of the needle?

2) I've used regular polyester covered thread on my own, but I'm doing someone elses and I think I need a different kind of thread. What was used on these jeans is a heavy thread. What kind of thread is this? Is it topstitching thread??

I have size 18 needles, and I believe they are the correct size for jeans. Thanks.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: hemming jeans

I have something that came with my machine called a "Hump jumper).It goes behind the presser foot,so that the back end of the presserfoot rest on it.You have to hold it in place as you sew over the hump.As for thread,coats&clark makes a denim(orange) thread like that which most top stitching is done with,and that's what i use.If you don't have that you can use 2 spools of thread on top to get that nice stitch,BUT only one of those top threads passes through the last hook b4 the needle,the 2nd one stays outside of it.Clear as mud right??
Kathi


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RE: hemming jeans

The jeans are solid black and all the top-stitching/hemming is done using black thread. So orange thread is out. Coats & Clark also makes a button and craft thread which is pretty strong and it comes in black. Would that work?

I used to work in a fabric store back in the '90's. I remember hearing about something called the hump jumper (probably on a sewing website), but I don't know if the fabric store carried it. I had to google it and click on images to see what it looked like. If they did carry it, I never did buy one.


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RE: hemming jeans

The hump jumper came as an accessory with a brand name machine. You could purchase them separately and it does a great job on those big thick seams. Rumor has it they are no longer made but there is a jean ama jig that does the same job. Goggle jean ama jig and have a look at that. I've seen them in fabric stores.


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RE: hemming jeans

The accessory being discussed has been sold by several names, but you can do the same thing with an index card. The back of your foot is hinged and it needs to stay level to get good stitches. In other words, the foot should not be pointing down or pointing up while you sew. Fold an index card, then fold again, keep folding until it is about the thickness of the seam that you have to cross. You will have to put the card in front of the foot sometimes and in back of the foot sometimes, but you need to keep it there while you are sewing on this elevated area. You will have to go very slowly across this seam. You don't sew the card, it's purpose is just to keep the foot level.

As for type of thread, I would use regular polyester thread if I were you since you are not trying to match a different top stitching color. Anything heavier than machine topstitching thread may not work in your machine. After you hem them you can see if it looks like you need topstitching. If you decide that you do, then go over it with topstitching thread and lengthen you stitch length. You will need a jean needle or a large needle. Good luck. Jeans are hard to hem.


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RE: hemming jeans

soonergrandmom, don't I know they are hard to hem! They are 100% cotton but have some stretch to them. How can I keep from stretching them when working with them? When I got finished one leg, it looked a little like bellbottoms!!I should have said "sorry, but I don't do jeans". Thanks


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RE: hemming jeans

Hmmm, I've never had a problem with them stretching although I wear the cotton stretch type myself. I have to buy a tall then remove an inch. You might try using a stay stitch just where your fold is going to be and see if that helps. If she ever needs a zipper replaced in a pair, RUN!!


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RE: hemming jeans2

I googled "hem jeans" and found this. So you can see.....others don't like to do it either. I wouldn't want to do this to someone's elses jeans, but it would sure be quicker. LOL

Here is a link that might be useful: Alternate Method


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RE: hemming jeans

ok, I went and looked at the inside tag. They are 99% cotton and 1% lycra, so I was wrong about them being 100% cotton. I'll try the stay stitching around the fold. I'm not stretching the fabric as I sew, or at least I don't think I am. I have to guide it through, but I try and do that without pulling it. Hard to believe 1% lycra can stretch! Zippers, No Way!! I've put a couple of them in jeans for myself, but now, I toss the jeans if they need a new one. Zippers have always been my least favorite thing when it comes to sewing.

I looked at the alternate method link. Looks like a blind stitch that you do on your machine except you sew straight stitches instead of the zigzag stitches. Is that what you were seeing? Don't think I would want that on my jeans.


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RE: jean ama jig

budster, I remember that name (jean ama jig)! That is probably what we carried at the fabric store years ago.


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RE: hemming jeans

I once did alterations for a dry cleaner and replacing pants zippers was the most dreaded. On blue jeans zippers it took more time removing the zipper and all the top stitching than it did to replace the zipper itself.


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