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the hem of knit garments

Posted by barb_roselover_in (My Page) on
Fri, Apr 30, 10 at 19:35

When I get ready to put the hem in these knit pants, would it help to stabilize the edges so that I wuld not have wavy stitching? Also, i know you can't cut a pattern using woven fabric when the pattern calls for knit, but can I cut knit fabric using a pattern for woven? I know there would be extra stretch in the knits but would it make that much difference? The pattern is from a pair of favorite slacks that I tore apart for a pattern. Thanks - Barb

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: the hem of knit garments

If I'm afraid the hem edge will be wavy I use the time-honored method of attaching the lacy hem tape first, pressing and then hemming by hand. (I use the X-y stitches on my good things, not machine done). Others may have better ideas, this is just how I do it.

On taking a pattern for knits to woven. It is likely to be too small. The pattern accounts for the "give" in the fabric and most note the % of stretch in the fabric, with less stretchy ones discouraged, even.

If your pattern has multiple sizes printed on it, as so many do now days, then I'd take a woven blouse that fits the way you'd like the new one to fit and lay it on the pattern. Pick the size that most nearly matches the dimensions (be sure to account for seams!) of the blouse you like.

Good luck!

RE: the hem of knit garments

ndstitch, she said these are pants, and the pattern is an old woven pair that she took apart and is making in a knit.

If you use knit when the original is woven, they might be too big. Perhaps baste and try on before you stitch them together in case you need to take them in?

As to whether the hem will be wavy, it depends on how thin and stretchy the knit is. A blind hem stitch on your machine might be an option. I've heard there are various types of stabilizer (iron on, spray on, etc.) that work but I haven't tried them.

RE: the hem of knit garments

I use a ball point twin needle for hems on knits. It's quick, no hand sewing (yes, I'm lazy) and looks good. You have to be exact about pinning up the hem since you are stitching on the outside of the garment and cannot see the inside, but to me it's worth it. I am petite and shorten the hems on most everything I buy ready made, and have done this a gazillion times. I wouldn't use this on a very fancy evening outfit, for that I would hand sew.

(Twin needles are two needles attached to one shank, you use two spools of thread up top. The bobbin thread ends up zig zagging between the two and gives the stretch.)

RE: the hem of knit garments

Suprneko - don't totally understand exactly how to do this. I am very short and have to take up everything, even the petite short. I have a new Singer. How do I put two spools of thread and just how do you sew on the right side? I guess I just don't get the picture. Right now I am nursing a separated shoulder and just trying to take care of myself, but I'd like to know. Thanks -Barb

RE: the hem of knit garments

There should be an extra spool holder near the normal one, then you thread the two threads together through the machine all the way to the twin needle (I would think you could also put two bobbin threads on a single spool holder). Set the machine for a normal straight stitch. Perhaps your manual has an illustration. It is hard to describe the rest so I took pictures. It is still a bit hard to see. The closeup shows that you are looking at the outside of the garment as you stitch the hem, you can't see the hem allowance part so you have to be very careful about pinning and stitching the correct amount (else you could miss catching the hem entirely, or have too much extra above the stitching). It is tricky so practice several times on scraps! HTH

Here is a link that might be useful: twin needle pictures

RE: the hem of knit garments

I found this nice video how-to, it first shows how to stitch over a ribbing type neckline but then goes on to show the twin needle stitching a hem. You can see how easy it is, the tricky part is getting the spacing correct.

Here is a link that might be useful: twin needle video

RE: the hem of knit garments

Be SURE that your machine can accept twin needles...otherwise you can cause problems with your bobbin case! I do agree with Suprneko though, the twin needle solution looks the best!

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