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bayareafrancy

Budster & Others: question re: pockets on apron (Simplicity 5201)

bayareafrancy
15 years ago

Hi Budster,

My apron is going pretty well so far. My sewing friend helped me lay it out, and cut it. Then she went over the pattern with me, which was a lifesaver, because I didn't understand lots of it.

I'm still a bit confused about the pockets. (Note: I actually put the apron together before putting on the pockets, because I had no bias tape to do the pockets, and I was too excited to wait. I've already attached the pockets using my own made up method, but I don't really like it, and probably want to redo it according to the pattern.)

Sooooooo: for the pockets, steps 3 and 4 (I already did step 2).

Step 3: What is the purpose of "stitch along seam line on outer edge, trim." Why not just trim it, and press it (step 4)? Why stitch it first?

Step 4: Two questions on this step:

1. When the raw edges are pressed under, do they need to be notched along the curve? Mine seem bunchy.

2. Is the pocket attached with just the raw edge turned under, so that the raw edge is visible inside the pocket? If this is correct, do I need to worry about fraying after repeated washings/wearings, or does the fact that the raw edge is enclosed in the pocket protect it from fraying (my fabric frayed like crazy during the prewash)? Similarly, down in step 6, when it says to finish the seams, don't I need to hem them (turn them twice to hide the raw edge, and prevent fraying). That is what I did, but it was time consuming. I smoothed them flat, and then folded, pinned, and stitched both halves so that when viewing the apron, right side out, there are 2 little columns of stitching on either side of the sewn sides. And same for the shoulders.

Btw, here is how I already did the pockets, since I had no bias tape, and wasn't sure about steps 3 and 4: I pinned and hemmed each pocket all the way around, enclosing the raw edge (very, very time consuming, and rather bunchy/thick to sew). Then, I attached the pockets to the apron. At this point, I had 2 rows of stitching visible on the pocket (the hem stitch, and the attach-to-apron stitch). Neither of these looked very even or pretty. They were too wonky/wobbly for my liking. So, I put rick rack over them to hide them. Ok, it all looks nice. However, I don't really like the rick rack on my fabric (a cupcake pattern) because the fabric itself is very cutesy, and the rick rack just makes it too over-the-top cutesy. So I want to do the simpler look as described in the pattern. Or I guess I could just keep redoing the pockets following my method so far, until my stitching is straight. But that would take forever!

So that's why I've decided to just do it as described in the pattern. That is, if I can figure out exactly what those steps 3 and 4 mean.

Hope that all made sense!

Thank you!!

:-)

francy

Comments (8)

  • budster
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello there.....I actually have the instructions in front of me for my pattern....Simplicity 7481 which is not your pattern....but is the exact pattern I swear, reissued with a new cover and new number.....the models on mine are gardening....your models are painting. LOL. Anyway, to answer your questions. The purpose of step 3....the stitching along the seam line and trimming it, helps you to fold and press along that line to give your curve a nice flow to it. It is a good idea to always clip the curves so you don't have that bunching up of fabic along the curve, it will give it a place to bend if you want to think of it that way. The raw edge is visable inside the pocket but really I wouldn't worry about it, this is where the theory of using pinking shears when you trim things closer comes in...the pinked edge will fray less.....hum, sometimes yes, sometimes no in my experience. You can finish your seams by doing a zig zag or another line of straight stitching on each of the raw edges about 1/4" either from your seam stitching or from the raw edge.....what it sounds like you did would also finish a seam but you don't have to sew the turned under parts to the apron top....Once the seam binding is on, the flaps of the fabric will be caught with the seam binding ....and you wouldn't have that double row of stitching on the shoulders or along the sides showing on the right side of the fabric. You can also clean finish them by doing the folding under and only stitching the flap of fabric to itself...not to the top of the apron - which is why you have 2 columns of stitching showing. You can always do what you did to finish the pocket but it is bunchy...all that fabric...the seam binding gives you a nice highlighted edge...that little fold in the center of each pocket also adds a bit of the bunch and the pockets are meant to "pooch" out a little. What you can do to get rid of the two stiching lines is to sew overtop of your "hem stitch" when attaching to the apron itself. It would make a larger pocket but a thought is that a double row of stitching is often called on to be an decorative detail to many patterns. You are doing fine.....look how far you came already! No bias tape, found a solution, "finish seams" - you did it but added another step (sewing the raw edges to the apron). You put on rick rack, didn't like it, fine, that's what seam rippers are for.....take it off, save it for your son to attach to some "critter" he's making...or use it yourself somewhere else. Take the fabric you didn't use and make yourself one of the triangle little head bandanas and trim it with the rick rack, you only need to get a bit more of that bias binding. So is this as clear as mud??? I hope you understand what I mean.....if not there are other sewers here who can help and make it a bit clearer. Give yourself a pat on the back, girl....you are doing great! P.S. Make sure you get enough bias binding this trip...it's hell to have to drive back and pick up more yardage and it will mean having to attach the old binding to the new. Budster

  • bayareafrancy
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you! Yes--that all makes sense!

    My 5 year old son was admiring the rick rack, and I told him I was actually going to take it off. He said, "But it looks more cuter with it on!"

    So, I might leave it now. Given how long the @#$%^& bias tape is taking, I no longer have the energy to redo the pockets.

    Pictures coming soon...

    :-)

    francy

  • budster
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Francy - did you see the pattern from Simplicity that is a remake of a 1950's one? It takes exactly l yard of fabric, not as cute as yours I bet, but being that it only takes l yard and is based exactly on a "retro" pattern....if you want the number let me know and I'll send it. Budster. HUMMMM.. a man with an eye for fashion...too bad he's just 5!

  • bayareafrancy
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I"m not sure if I have seen it. I have seen the one from the retro collection that looks kind of like a shortish smock, with ties in the pack. The fetching ladies on the cover are wearing it over their regular clothes, as a top layer. Very cute!

    Pocket question again: so the "stitch along the seam line" is really going to make it easier to turn and press an edge in? I'm just not quite understanding why stitching it is necessary.

    Also: I am NOT likeing the "stay stitching." What is the purpose of that, other than to peek out from under my edging in various places, and look sloppy? I think I am going to pick every thread of it out. Can I skip the stay stitch next time?

    Thank you!

    :-)

    francy

  • soonergrandmom
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't know where the stay stitching is on your pattern, but normally stay stitching is important. Sometimes it is used when you have a curve or bias cut and keeps the material from stretching as you attach two pieces. Other times it is in an area that will be clipped and turned and the stay stitching keeps you from cutting too far and the point of the cut from ripping, like in a "V" neck shirt.

  • bayareafrancy
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hmmmmm. I'm not sure this pattern has either of those "stay stitching requirements." It is a quirky, wrap around, criss crossing, sleeveless smock type thing. And the stay stitching is for the whole darn thing! So, the front and backs are only sewn together at the shoulders, and at each striaght side. No curves where the pieces are actually sewn together.

    The rest of it has lots and lots of curves, but that is edged with bias tape. Maybe it is supposed to keep me from stretching out the fabric when I apply the bias tape?

    I think it is mainly there to make me frustrated! It keeps peeking out at me if I don't get the tape on exactly right.

    Thank you for your help soonergrandmom!

    :-)

    francy

  • sheesh
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes,. francy, stay stitching keeps the curves from stretching. You should do it every time a pattern calls for it so your finished garment edge won't be saggy. You can pick out the stitches that show if you want to, but....I'd do it only on the front neck edge, because no one will ever be able to see those tiny stitches while you're wearing the apron.

    Next time you stay stitch, do it just inside the 5/8 seam allowance, say at 1/2.. You'll still get a few stitches that show, but not as many. It's almost impossible to do it flawlessly around the curves, but it is important.

    Did you know you can wear out your fabric? If you have to rip stitches too many times, the fabric can give way.

  • budster
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    sherrmann is right francy, stay stitching is important and that is a great hint I often don't think of myself..stitching at 1/2" seam line vice the 5/8". Less ripping for sure. Budster