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Jacket for Evening Dress

Posted by laurie_2008 (My Page) on
Mon, Jan 18, 10 at 22:05

Hope everyone had Happy Holidays!
I'm ready to make the jacket for the dress that I'll be wearing to my daughter's wedding. It's only 3 months away!

For anyone who didn't see my dress, you can look at my past posts under "Evening Dress-for wedding" There is also a "part 2" and a "part 3" post.

The dress is a See & Sew pattern (long skirt & sleeveless top). The jacket is Very Easy Vogue V8188. I'm going to make the jacket with the same fabric (blue silk dupioni) as the dress. I'm going to add some beaded type embelishment/trim around the cuffs of the sleeves.
Here is the Jacket
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I made a practice jacket out of blue broadcloth. I used size 18 and did not make any alterations to the pattern. I am showing pics to get feedback on the length. Does it look long enough?
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I think the sleeve length feels good, but the sleeve width seems a bit loose. For the second practice sleeve, I was thinking about using a 1" seam instead of 5/8" seam all along the arm to see how that feels. What do you think?
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I will need to be more careful when easing in the sleeve cap to the armhole in order to keep the tucks at the armhole to a minimum. I will try and do better on the second sleeve.
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While I was trying on the dupioni top, one of the covered buttons fell off! Not the entire button, just the fabric covered "cap" part. I'm glad this happened now, and not at the wedding. I will check all of the buttons to make sure they are secure. Are there some button products that are better than others? Any suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks!
-Laurie


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie:

I wouldn't take the sleeve in too much you may find it binds and doesn't let you move. If you take it in at the armhole you will throw off the sleeve cap and find it hard to set the sleeve in. If you think it is too wide at the cuff,you could taper it by keeping the underarm the same and gradually going to your 1 inch seam at the cuff.

The length is good and so is the sleeve length. It covers the top by what looks to be just the right amount. It also fits pretty good.

I don't think any covered buttons are better. You just have to make sure they are hammered in as far as they go. If they are not what happened to you will happen. I always try to pull the cap off after I make them, just to be sure they are set right.

Ok Pattie--your turn. Correct me if I'm wrong. Can you see anything I didn't see or have more to add?


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Hi Laurie an Myrna,
I agree about the sleeves, including tapering if needed.
When looking at this I am thinking you may need a minor narrow shoulder adjustment, that would pull the sleeve up slightly. I put a site below also check the book you have.
Think you may need to add sleeve heads, they are pieces of fleece added to top of sleeve that helps hold the shape and fill in so it does not pucker. Will have to add another post find an article on sleeve heads.

Here is a link that might be useful: Narrow Shoulders.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie,
You might just check your pattern in shoulder area look at the size sixteen at top of the armscye(shoulder) may need only be a slight amount to lift the sleeve.

Below is info on the Sleeve heads not a big deal but really helps support sleeve top and shoulder area.
When doing the sleeve you need to do a ease stitch some call it a crimping, you put your finger behind presser foot keeping fabric from coming through past your finger, LOL that was probably as clear as mud try to google ease stitch.
I use 3 rows sometimes, helps the sleeve cap fold in to position, helps eliminate the puckers.
When I have it adjusted I first use a basting stitch to sew in place , this allows the the eased stitches to smooth out a little then if it looks good go over with a regular stitch length.

The Length, when you put on over the top does it hang at least an inch below the top?

Buttons, It happens, sometimes, glad it did it now, always make a few extra. I prefer the ones with the teeth I use a small old wooden spool from thread to press them closed. Some have a little kit with metal pusher.
I use lightweight iron on interfacing for the fabric cut out the button then gather, this way you do not have to contend with fraying..

Okay, Critique me Myrna.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sleeve Heads


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

I also think sleeve heads are important. You'll be glad you used them. Also, will you be using shoulder pads? They give support as well as a more square look. You may even consider cutting the jacket at the sleeve head (where front meets back at the shoulder) 1/2 inch or so narrower. It looks a little low to me, but maybe the shoulder pads would take care of that.

Also, you will probably find that setting in the silk sleeves will be easier than the broadcloth was, so don't worry too much about tucks, yet.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Myrna, Patti, & Sherry - Thank you for your replies!

When I make the second sleeve, I'll do the taper as suggested so that the armhole size will remain the same.

I tend to stay away from shoulder pads because I feel they just make my shoulders so much larger. Sleeve heads seem like something I should look in to. I need to go back to the library and check out those sewing books, again. I'll also study the links Patti sent.

Before I set in the second sleeve, should I cut the jacket sleeve head a little narrower?

When I wear the jacket with the top, it does hang an inch or inch and a half below the top.

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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie:

Shoulder pads come in lots of different thicknesses, weights and styles. A light weight molded shoulder pad does not add to the shoulders but lifts a jackets shoulders just enough to give it shape.

The ones I use are only about 1/4 inch thick.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, I think you should cut the armholes a bit deeper all around on the jacket. They look too big for you, even in the front. It looks like the crease on the front is just about where your shoulders are....much more than a 5/8" seam allowance.

Buy a pair of shoulder pads from the fabric store and try them. I think you'll like the result. They'll square up the shoulders for you without giving you broader shoulders or a military look. Droopy shoulders aren't flattering, either. Doesn't the pattern call for them? The jacket on the pattern envelope looks like it would have shoulder pads. Especially since your jacket is silk, I think you need to support the sleeve with pads..

And I fogot - is the jacket lined? I hope it is.

Sherry


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Oh, and....

....Follow Patti's link for narrow shoulders. I skipped over that before I posted just above. Shouldn't have.

Sherry


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

The jacket will be underlined as well as lined, just like the skirt and top are. Do all of you agree that I should do the underlining on the jacket? I just assumed so. The skirt and top have a decent amount of body to them due to both linings. The practice jacket has no underlining and I just used the broadcloth as the lining fabric for that. The pattern does not call for a shoulder pad. I will go to JoAnn's and get a small, thin one as suggested by Myrna. I will also experiment with a sleeve head after reading more about how to do that. Sherry- I think you're right-the armhole does seem too large. I'll study Patti's link.
Thanks for all your help : ) I sure do appreciate your support!
-Laurie


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Hi Laurie,
Your very welcome, I am enjoying this, Your a wonderful person, I so admire your attention to following details, your doing a great job and I am proud of you.

Underlining Do the whole jacket, *Collar, including the Sleeves...
It adds body by holding the shape making it hang better, it also prevents some wrinkling, it should also cover the buttons so they will not look like warts on your back, LOL sorry could not think of a better description.
*Collar depending on the weight that the underlining adds I have used a second layer of underlining in place of the interfacing, you want the Collar to be firm but not overly stiff, hope that makes sense.

Shoulder, usually the amount reduced is between the notches on front and back, it tapers to nothing at the notches. There are a few method another is where you pinch a small dart in the front and pack of your practice one if it fits do the same to your pattern pieces, the dart will not show on actual garment nor would a dart be sewn there, just an alteration.
Shoulder Pads, Agree with Myrna and Sherry they have thin ones maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inches they are more for support than to make you look like a football player.

Armhole Check the site about a slightly sloping shoulder, it is not uncommon to do a few adjustments to get a fit.
Myself I have to use the narrow shoulder, slight slope, and slightly forward alterations.
IMHO These adjustments will make the arm hole smaller I am thinking the under arm area may be okay.

Sleeve Twisting also goes with a narrow shoulder, patterns are guides, the dot on center of sleeve can be moved forward or backs 1/4 to 3/8 of inch if needed.
You could try just a simple muslin in smaller size, little concerned about underarm area

Sorry this is so lengthy, once you get most of the alterations down, they will be useful in future projects.

Trivia: I once read that basic sewing patterns fit less than 25% of buyers with no alterations.

HTH Hugs, Patti


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Yes, you should underline it.

Be sure to buy thin shoulder pads meant for set-in sleeves. You will not need to cover the pads.
Sherry


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

I'm feeling discouraged, today. I don't like the way this size 18 jacket looks on me : (

I modified the second sleeve (the one on my left) by using a 5/8" seam by the armhole and gradually increasing to 1" at the wrist. It's still a little baggy.

I trimmed 3/8" from the jacket armhole at the top between the front and back notches.

On sleeve #1, I used 2 (hand sewn) ease stitching lines at the cap. On the second sleeve, I used the longest stitch on my machine to make these 2 ease lines. In both cases, I just pulled on the threads to make the adjustments. I don't know how to do that special easing skill that Patti was trying to explain to me.

Today, I sewed the left sleeve to the jacket and I feel it looks even worse than the first one...with all the wrinkles at the armhole : (

I took some pictures first showing without shoulder pads, then with shoulder pads (1/4" set in type).

Below, you'll see a trim sample I purchased a while ago. I sewed it at the wrist to see how it looks.

Time is starting to run out as I have other projects to do before the wedding. I think I have time for one more practice jacket. I will buy some muslin tomorrow (Friday) after work. Should I try a size 16?

From the picture on the pattern envelope, This jacket looks like it is meant to stay open (no button or hook or any closure at the front). This is fine, because I wasn't planning on closing it. With the size 18, I can bring the front together so they just touch. If I try a 16, then there would be more of a gap there in front. Good? Bad?

Here is the trim against the dupioni. It's 1-1/2" wide.

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Jacket before adding shoulder pads

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Jacket after pinning in 1/4" shoulder pads

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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie:

I like the shoulders better with the shoulder pads. It squares your shoulders without adding bulk. The shoulder on that one looks like it falls in the right place. Is that the one where you trimmed the jacket armhole? Don't trim the armhole --that's why it didn't fit right, you made the armhole bigger.

Do like Pattie suggested. On the front and back on the paper pattern pieces on the shoulder, draw a 3/8 inch dart--since that's the amount you removed. Do it so they meet on both pieces and taper down about 3 inches. Draw them in around where the notches are. Then cut the darts out and tape the peices together or fold and pin. This will remove the 3/8 inch without cutting the armhole bigger.

When you sew the sleeves in--first you run your basting stitches on the machine like you did the second time. One should be on the sewing line at 5/8 inch. Then you pull them to gather and pin on. When you sew it in, stay on the line of thread from your gathering, sewing right on top of it. You won't get puckers because you can adjust it slightly if you need to. The puckers come from sewing between the gathering stitches.

Easing is--Your machine feeds the material from the bottom. If you bubble or push the top piece of material up a bit, the top piece will move through the needle a bit more than the bottom flat piece. You have to put the bubble as close to the needle as you can, and the bubble has to be small for it to work. When you have time parctice on scraps. You will encounter this term often in patterns


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

If the sleeves still feel big you could taper them more, but don't forget you are putting lining and interlining in the silk and you don't want them skin tight. I wouldn't go with the smaller size.

What don't you like about the jacket? If you don't want to go with the jacket, maybe a shawl would be better. It would certainly be easier to make. Try the dress on and drape your remaining material over it and see if you like that look.

Don't get discouraged. You'll get there somehow or other. I know just how much has to be done for a wedding. Make a list of things that have to be done and assign the weeks remaining to each thing. That way it's not so overwhelming. That's what I did.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Ah, yes - alterations. I don't blame you for being discouraged; I hate them. But you'll get it.

When you ease or gather anything, ALWAYS pull ONLY the bobbin thread and a long stitch; the garment will slide along the thread. (If you like, you can use a contrasting thread in the bobbin to make it easier to see which thread to pull.) Machine baste the sleeve to the jacket, then snip the basting threads if there are any tiny tucks, readjust and baste that spot again. Now sew it in.

I know instructions always call for two or three rows of stitching for easing or gathering, but I only use one, just slightly inside the seam allowance. If the thread breaks, you have to start all over again, but I get better results with only one row of stitching.

The jacket looks great in front, but the shoulders still look too wide. You're going to have to keep adjusting. The shoulder pads look good.

Many jacket patterns have sleeve darts at the elbows to give a narrower, more flattering sleeve. Perhaps you can find another pattern with that kind of sleeve and use just the sleeve with the your jacket. I often mix and match patterns to get what I want.

Be sure to leave plenty of length for hemming the jacket since you're raising the armhole on the jacket.

Sherry


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, We all have those days, keep on trying. Your doing a wonderful job. That trim is beautiful.
We will get you through this.
You can alway email us if you need a quicker answer.
Found a picture of armhole remember they are adjusting a "sloper" which you call a practice, then transfering to pattern adjustments to pattern pieces, the darts are not actual darts they use to call it "pinching and folding" like a dart.

Sleeve with can be pinched and folded to remove a bit of the width. Where you see the Straight of Grain on the pattern piece, get a yard stick or ruler draw a line 2" from side seams and parallel from the Straight of grain line, end the line before the seam allowances, pinch and fold fabric a 1/4" on each side, pin or tape, taper fold to almost nothing approx 1 1/4 inches before the it reaches the seam allowance hope that makes sense.
I can only put one URL on here at a time, they have a chart for slashing and spreading it shows a sleeve and grading/adjustment lines. Here is the URL. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4424/quick-reference-for-cut-and-spread-pattern-grading
Will email it to you.
Agree needs a little more adjustment to bring shoulder upwards. Check the book you got for narrow shoulder and sleeve width too wide. If you have other sewing book check it also
Easing: It is quicker and will get the sleeve to merge with shoulder.
Practice on a scrap of fabric, you can actually use an almost regular stitch length, put it on the machine put needle down, put your finger behind the presser foot hold your finger there your holding the fabric from moving to back of machine it forces the feed dogs to crimp or ease the fabic, you may have to adjust or spread slightly when attaching sleeve to armhole.

Darts in front bust area: Try lowering the dart point (for your fashion fabric or on a practice one if needed). The dart should end an inch or so below/away from the bust point. It looks to me as if the front darts are too high.

Check the above things out, email if you need me, takes so long to post things on here.
Hugs Patti

Here is a link that might be useful: armholes/shoulders


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I think the darts are just fine....I may be one too many cooks for this stew.

Sherry


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Scroll down to "Bust Darts" This rule usually applies to horizontal from side of bust, to Vertical below the bust.

They are place 1 1/4" to 1 1/2 inches away from either so they can be pressed smoothly.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bust Darts


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Thank you Patti, Myrna & Sherry for your helpful posts and links and suggestions! It is amazing how I learn a little bit more each time I read them. Thank you for caring.

Tonight, I will read through them again and also practice some easing skills with scrap fabric.

Myrna- The part I don't like about the jacket is the way it's not fitting me in the shoulders and the arms, plus my sloppy easing where the sleeve sets into the armhole.I like the detail way you described sewing the sleeve in and also how the sewing machine is working during the easing process. I will re-read your posts & practice tonight. I will also do your idea of making a list of things to get done for the wedding and assigning weeks to target these tasks. The shawl idea is definitely a good back up plan.

Sherry - I never knew to only pull the bobbin thread! Oh my goodness...and what a great idea to use a different color in the bobbin to help me distinguish them. Now, I am excited to practice and get better at this : ) Thank you, also, for reminding me to pay attention to the length of the jacket.

Patti - Thanks for your endless encouragement and understanding. I will read and re-read all your links and your posts. I got your email as well, thanks!
I think it will be relatively easy to make those bust darts a bit lower.

I will print out all of your posts, highlight key parts and keep them next to me when practicing.

Tomorrow (Saturday) - I'm hoping to have the entire day to practice and hopefully get this fitting better!

Thank you to all my GW sewing angels for helping me along this journey.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie:

You could also tie a knot in the end of the bobbin thread before you start to sew your gathering stitch, so you'll know which thread to pull.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, I am only here for encouragement. You have got lots of great help with your project. If you don't mind I would just like to keep watching your project. We all have those days when its not going just right, and then all of a sudden everything we sew is perfect. I am proof that you are never to old to learn, have been sewing many years, and learning from the post here. Please continue with the pictures, , and I will be sending you encourgement. When our daughter got married five years ago, I did the same, and some nights I would be thinking, am I nutty or what. When I look back at the wedding pictures, always, remember that in the end it was great fun getting my dress, as well as the dress for my 90 year old mother , who was 85 at the time , ready. I sew for the three of us, but have a little secret, The three of us are the exact same size. We are all 5 feet tall, and all three are between 106-108, no don't get me wrong, Some of us, namely the younger one, don't have the pull of gravity. So, when I am sewing have a pretty good idea when I try on their's, that it will fit. Thanks for sharing with us.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

hallngarden:
I am learning from Pattie too. She is a fountain of knowledge.

Laurie:
I looked up easing the sleeve and there are many ways to do it according to different sites. Don't go looking Laurie it will just confuse you, just follow what Pattie says. My way of easing is one of them but not what Pattie means for setting the sleeve.

Pattie:
I understand your method now. It would really make a better gather than the old way of pulling the thread. If you didn't have to set the machine for gathers the stitches would be smaller and less likely to pucker. I'm going to have to get my machine out and do some practicing. I would still sew right on the stitching line though.

I agree the bust dart is too high and should be an inch below the fullest part of the bust.

That is a much better idea to make the pleat in the sleeve pattern. I'm only concerned that the sleeve will be to tight in the arm and elbow in a quest to get the cuff fitting, But when I went back to look it seems Laurie could take out an inch with no problem


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Hi Ladies.
We all learn from each other no matter what our experience, always some new methods.
Ease Stitching has been used for years, it is a little different than gathering, it draws up the fullness in sleeve cap and is actually used in many types of seams such as princess lines in the bust area.

You can hold one finger behind presser foot, agree with Myrna about on the seam line, then another row 1/8 inch away then I do a *third row 1/8 inch away on the *third row
I place both fingers behind presser foot it helps to hold others in place and cups to fit shoulder area you have to spread a little to match up notches and dots.
When easestitching is used in this manner usually no gathering.
I was taught to baste stitch from notch to notch or dot dot first when attaching to the shoulder.

Use a lot of pins, the BASTE to shoulder using the seam allowance and again at 3/8" this allows the shoulder area to accept the ease stitching if satisfied stay stitch over basting. Hope that makes sense.

Sorry if this is kind of all over the place we had company all day, kind of dragging..

I have only found a few on easing hoping others have more input for visuals.

If I can help or explain this further please just ask....

Hugs Patti


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Hi Pattie:

Ease stitching may have been around for years but I had never heard of it for setting in a sleeve. I always did the gathering for setting in sleeves. I guess once I had success doing it that way, I never went looking for another way to do it. I have encountered patterns that said ease for other things, but did it the way I said before, which works, but I wouldn't want to use it for a sleeve.

It just goes to show we are never too old to learn new ways of doimg things


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

hallngarden - Thanks for your encouragement! It helps to know others have felt the same way. I'm glad you are learning from these posts and I will continue to take pictures along the way. I sure appreciate everyone's input and it's good to get various opinions as there are many ways to solve problems and get things done. I will remember what you said about how you look back on the dressmaking project for your own daughter's wedding and how there were times it was frustrating, but in the end, you were so glad you did it! How blessed you are to still have your mother (90 years old!)...all three of you the same size...amazing!

Myrna - Good to know another idea of tying a knot on the bobbin thread. I am not sure yet as to what easing process will work best for me in this particular project, but I will continue to read everyone's posts and practice, practice, practice. I made a list of things to get done for the wedding and assigned weeks..just as you said. It has helped me to not be so stressed. I think that helped me a lot...thank you : )

Patti - I'm going to post a lot of pictures below of alterations to the pattern. I will come back and review your easing suggestions and practice on scrap fabric while I wait for responses to questions below.

Today, I did some alterations on the pattern pieces. I decided to stay with the size 18 and make another practice jacket omitting the collar and lining. On the pattern I lengthened the jacket 1/2" and then lowered the dart 1". The front dart is kind of a slash type dart. I also lowered the top of the slash part by 1".

I narrowed the shoulders 1/2" on the front & back pieces.

I want to decrease the entire width of the sleeve 3/4". I pinned the first practice jacket sleeve 3/4" all the way from the underarm to the wrist. I tried it on and it felt good. Nancy Zieman's book shows pictures of increasing sleeve width, but no pics for decreasing. She just says to reverse the process. With her method, the seam is tapered to the wrist and you end up with the same wrist width as in the original pattern. I'm thinking I just need to draw a line 3/8" all the way to the wrist. When you look at the pic below, you will see where I did the pivot part at the top of the sleeve to re-draw the top of the sleeve. But, then I left the side seams alone for now. I put a question next to each picture below.
Let me know what you think and Thank You!!

I shortened the top of the dart by 1" and the top of the "slash" part of the dart by 1"...did I do that correctly?
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I narrowed the shoulders 1/2" on the front and the back pieces according to Nancy's book
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The green line is the new armhole cutting line
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Notice when the sleeve is folded in half, the circle "at the top" is not in the center of the top? Is that normal?
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After following Nancy's sleeve decreasing size method, this is what the top of the sleeve looks like (Green line). Will this sleeve "cap" fit into the arm hole?

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This is still part of the decreased sleeve. Do I continue this green line 3/8" (from the original cutting line) all the way down to the wrist? Then, do the same on the other sleeve edge?

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Laurie:

The shoulder decrease looks good. I don't think the sleeve is right. It looks like it has made the sleeve cap bigger as well as norrower. You don't need the sleeve cap changed, just the width of the sleeve from the underarm down.

Try this on the first sleeve on the jacket you've already made pin and then baste the sleeve on the outside from the underarm down, to the way you would like the sleeve to be. We are not going for looks, just seeing the fit and how much has to be removed. Try on the jacket and see if you have ease of movement in it with the sleeve that size. Now you have an idea of just how much has to be removed. Don't forget your silk will have underlining and lining which will take up some room.

Make pleats in the pattern like Pattie suggested and do not touch the cap at all. There are 3 places you can remove fullness, in the center and on each side of the sleeve. Actually 2 because if you do it on one side of the sleeve you must do the other side.

You could take a little out with the pleat in the center and a little out by pleating on each side. Where you do it depends on how much has to be removed.

Take the straight grain line that is on the pattern. Measure over the same distance on both ends to the center on the pattern piece and draw a line that ends 1 1/4 inches from the cap. Fold on this line and then fold over into a pleat. Taper the top near the cap to nothing(like a dart) and gradually working to 1/4 inch fold. This will take 1/2 inch out of the sleeve width.

Now move to the side of the sleeve, you can do the same thing 2 inches from the side seam following the grain line on both sides.If you do 1/4 inch on both sides you will have removed 1 inch.

Wait until Pattie weighs in with her opinion before you do the pleats but you could baste the jacket and try it on. Maybe you could post your results so we know how much has to be removed too.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Yes, Laurie, the back of the sleeve is a bit bigger than the front, thus the dot at the top is not centered.

I guess I haven't been paying attention to the sleeve narrowing process. I can't follow it.

Sherry


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Dart maybe another 1/2" lower, suggesting this because you added to the length. (Did you add to length in back piece?)
WooHoo proud of you, Slash and Spread Method!!!!!!!

Shoulder/Armhole, Although it may appear higher or larger, it is okay. The amount taken from shoulder is added to the lower part of armhole lifting it. If you measure the armhole it will probably measure the same as the original.

Agree with Sherry, Sleeve Dot not centered, that is correct need more room for back area.

Sleeves in Index may refer you to Width decrease, small paragraph tells you to opposite of increase.

Sleeve Alterations, I have to agree with Myrna about leaving until you make sure shoulder adjustments are working.
She is also correct about needing adjustment to width of the sleeve, not area where meeting seams under arm.
You may find that the shoulder adjustment will lift the cap of the sleeve and not need adjustment to the cap area.

Know that there is a lot of trial and error but you are a real trooper, taking it a step at a time may save you a little extra work.
I probably would have done the shoulder adjustment and see if sleeve fit the armhole to your first practice jacket.

Remember a lot of the caution tips we throwing at you are from past experience failures, we want you to avoid and to guide you to successful construction.

Sherry: Below is a Slash Spread Grading Reference:
Blue Vertical lines for Width Alterations.
Reddish Horizontal lines for lenth alterations.
It amazes me the information available online.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pattern Slash Spread Grading Reference


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Patti & Sherry - thanks for telling me about that large dot on the sleeve cap.
Myrna - I went with trying Nancy's idea in the book about decreasing the sleeves. I drew that new green cutting line 3/8" away (inside) the old cutting line (on both sides of the sleeve pattern. So, I cut out the sleeve and sleeve cap just as shown in my last post above (along the green lines).
I felt the sleeves needed to be narrower the entire length, not just a tuck here and a tuck there. They were really baggy : /

Patti - I left the dart 1" below the old dart. Yes, I added the length to the back piece as well as the front. I wish I could take courage credit for the slash in the front, but that is part of the original pattern.

I made a simple practice jacket using the new alterations just as I posted last time. I sewed the front & back and put in one sleeve. There's no lining. Dh is not here right now to take pictures, so I tried to take some to show you.

I'm wearing a long sleeve cotton t-shirt underneath. The new darts, narrower shoulders, and narrower sleeves feel really good. I will get better pictures when Dh is back.

I'm feeling a lot better about this jacket and would like to proceed with the real fabric! I will wait for the green light from you. I know it's not perfect, but remember...I'm a novice at this. And as long as there are not any major problems, I'm ready to go for it : )

I do have to tell you that I tried the machine easing process, but it wasn't working for me : ( I know I must be doing something wrong. I put the fabric in, lower the presser foot, hold my finger behind the foot, & start the machine. Yes, I see the fabric bunching up behind the foot, but it's not getting stitched in the bunched area. As soon as I stop stitching and lift my finger, the fabric goes flat! Am I supposed to place my finger in the front of the foot instead of the back?

Anyhow, I went with Sherry's method of making one machine stitch line (between the notches-as instructed in pattern), then pulling the bobbin thread. It worked very well. Then, I smoothed out the ruffles with my fingers as I was easing in to fit the sleeve. I also found a neat video clip of a person using this easing technique. Watching the video really helped me. She is setting a sleeve into a shirt, not a jacket. But, I assume it's the same idea. I'll post the link below.

The only concern I have with my easing is that the top thread/stitching from my machine stitch for easing is showing through in some places on the right side of my shoulder. After I eased the sleeve and pinned it into the armhole, I machine basted the sleeve to the jacket right on
top of the easing stitch line. I think I missed the exact top of the easing stitch line and must have gone to the side in some places. Maybe I should have done as Sherry said and stitched the easing line just a tiny bit to inside of the 5/8" seam allowance line. By the way...should I just pull out the easing stitch thread now that the sleeve is in? Or, should I leave the easing stitching in?

These pics do not have any shoulder pads added. I think shoulder pads will look even better.

I machine stitched (using regular stitches/ 10-12 stitches per inch) ON the seam allowance between front & back notches.
Green thread on top, gray thread in bobbin.
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Then, I pulled the bobbin thread to get the wrinkles.
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I put the sleeve into the jacket armhole, matching lower arm pit seam to side seam, notches, small dots, large circle to top of shoulder seam. Then, with my fingers, I smoothed out the wrinkles.
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Here is a link that might be useful: Setting Sleeve Video


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

The sleeve still looks a little low but I think maybe the shoulder pads and sewing on the collar may take care of that. You may not have lifted it enough in that area when you put it on. It's a bit hard to tell without both sleeves in.

The dart looks pretty good. It looks like it is below the fullest part of the bust.

Are you happy with the sleeve width?

Don't worry if some of the basting shows you can always snip them out. You don't need the basting after the sleeve is sewn in.

One thing I noticed when you had the sleeve pinned in. You had the pins above the stitching line, You will find the sleeve easier to sew in if you put the pins in across the basting with the heads facing the cut edge. Then you can sew to a pin, easily pull it out and sew to the next one.

You can do this with most materials, but I don't know about on the silk because it might show the pin line. You might have to do it the same way only pin just before the stitching line or just pin through the underlining. I don't really know and I'll defer to Pattie. She know how to sew the silk.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

It looks much better, great job.
Mryna when she does the collar it will probably pull shoulder up a bit.

Would like to see how sleeve is hanging.....

Agree with changing position of the pins.
When you do the real one make sure you add a few rows of easing/gathering to top of the sleeve by doing this it snugs fabric within the seam allowances, you do not want your fabric flopping over, see where your pins are after stitching that is where you need another row. This adds support to the seam allowance.
Loosen tension on stitches.

The pins will not hurt the silk for short time, do not press with them in the fabric.

When basting on the real one you will be using matching colors I rarely remove the basting stitches, they are stitch over with a regular stitch.
Your doing fine, I just want to make you aware of certain techniques.
Have grandkids here will check back in they are going to bed....


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Myrna - Yes, I am happy with the sleeve width. I will remember to have the pins go in the other way, as you said.

Patti - Thanks. It feels much better.
Loosen tension on stitching in general? or just along the seam line at the shoulder? My tension dial has stayed the same for this entire project. The number reads "2". The dial range is 0 - 9. I've never touched the tension on the bobbin...wouldn't even know how. I believe the guy adjusted the bobbin or checked it when he serviced the machine before I started this project.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Hi Laurie,
Can you increase the stitch length, if you can lengthen a bit for doing the easing/gathering on top of the sleeve..

Leave the bobbin alone then, on your machine believe right increase the tightness, left loosens the bobbin.
You have done a wonderful job with that machine, I had to pause and think about the way they work.

Now that your pleased, Go For It!!!!!!

We will be here to cheer you on!!!!!!!!
Hugs, Patti


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Yes Laurie go for it!!

Loosen the upper tension to do your gathering for the sleeve then turn it back to sew it in and do all the rest of the stitching.

I'll be looking forward to seeing the real thing.

Pattie:

I seldom remove any of the gathering stitches either because I sew right on top of them. I just thought Laurie should know that she could if she needed to.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Patti - yes, I can lengthen the stitch to 6 stitches per inch. That's the longest stitch length my machine has. After easing the cap, should I return the stitch length back to 10 -12 for sewing the sleeve onto the jacket?

Myrna - For gathering/easing the cap: along with lengthening the stitch, should I also loosen the tension?

I am so excited to begin working with the "real" fabric, again!! Thank you for all of your support as always. I know I can count on you GW sewers to be here for me. I hope I can help others someday, like you do. If not as technically, then at least with support and encouragement.

Keep an eye out for random questions that will crop up as I'm working on this jacket. I will post pictures as it progresses. I will take my time and do everything carefully, so it will take a lot longer to complete than the practice jacket. I also need to go back to that special fabric store and purchase the trim for the wrists/cuffs. I had only bought that small sample last time I was there.
I had used clear thread and hand stitched it to the practice jacket prior to putting the lining on the sleeve.
Hope that's the right way to add the trim. Its a little bulky, so I'll need to figure a "clean" and smooth way of finishing it off at the point where the ends meet. I don't know if the ending/meeting point of the trim ends are supposed to go into the seam and get sewn in. You can chime in here if you have a suggestion. I will also ask the lady at the fabric store. It's helpful to be able to feel the trim with your hand to really get a good idea about it's texture and how best to deal with it.

Thanks to all of you terrific people. You are helping me sooooo much!!


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More pictures

Here's a few pictures taken this evening

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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

No Laurie NO NO NO I screwed that one up. Don;'t loosen the tension. Your machine is sewing good don't screw with the tension. What I meant to say is lengthen the stitch for gathering and regular for sewing.

Oh yes!! this jacket fits good. The sleeve falls just where it should and there's not all that extra bulk at the shoulders. The sleeve width looks good too.

Good luck Laurie!! You did great--now on to the real thing


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Laurie:
If it were me doing the sleeve trim. I would encase the raw edges in the seam.
I'd sew everything, except when doing the sleeve underarm seam on your silk.(the underlining would be included in this) There I would end the regular stitching about 10 or 12 inches from the bottom of the sleeve, break your thread, and then do a basting stitch the rest of the way. After the jacket is sewn. Measure the hem and press so you have a line to follow. Decide where you want the trim. Pull the lining to the inside and hand baste the trim on following your pressed seam as a guide. Leave the part near the seam unstitched for now. Then pull the bobbin thread on the basting and the sleeve will open up to sew on the trim. When you are satisfied the trim is Ok, then you can permanently attach it. There does not seem like there is an ideal place to machine sew it so it might have to be hand sewn. When you restitch the sleeve seam make sure there are no pearls or big stuff to break the needle.

Now that's my take--see what Pattie says, she knows best how to do it


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Laurie, still watching with excitement as you work. Can't wait to see you working on the "real" jacket. All of your posting brought back my memories of making suits for my husband. This was in the early seventies. Oh, how I remember the nights thinking, what in the world was I thinking. After making the first one, went on to make several more and would make two pants for each one of his suits. The easy part of sewing for a man was the fact the pattern sizes for men were very accurate to size he bought in retail. This is not true for me today, off the racks I wear between a 4 and 6, but it takes a larger size for me in patterns. Looking forward to watching and cheering as you get near the finish line. Thank you for allowing me to sit on the side lines watching the action.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Myrna - OK, I will leave the tension as is. Yes, the sleeves feel very comfortable compared to the first
jacket: )

If I remove some of the beads and/or crystal things at the cut edges/ends of the trim, I could do as you suggest and sew the ends in to the seam of the sleeve (the seam that goes all the way to the underarm). I would probably want to change the needle for that particular part? Or, hand sew that part?

The idea you mentioned about pulling the lining to the inside, leaving part of the sleeve unstitched, etc. - not sure that would work in this particular case. See picture below.

hallngarden - That's very interesting about mens patterns being more true to retail size than womens patterns. I normally wear a size 12 dress, size 10 or 12 slacks/pants.
It's quite humbling for me to have to be using this size 18 : / You are lucky to be so nice and petite...you've got those slim genes. Any dancers or gymnastic athletes in your family? Thanks, again, for cheering me on. I really do feel like all of you are with me when I'm working on this!

After I'm done, I want to observe and cheer on other people's projects!!

Pattern instructions for the sleeve trim:

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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, no dancers in this group, that is unless we claim shagging on the beach in the fifties. Have a question, has nothing whatsoever to do with sewing. We bought a new home and moved to be closer to our daughter and her family. Did not sell our prior home and have a friend remodeling that home for us. Loved the wall color I could see in the background of your pictures. One looked very much like a sage and the other a beige. Do you know the colors of your paint. Thinking of having the entire house painted in one color. Thanking you in advance if you know the colors. Happy sewing to you.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie,

The Trim, Hard to see how much detail, I usually figure the width needed, I fray check a couple lines just before the seam allowance and run a stitch close to the seam allowance, remove any loose beads,rhinestones, or sequins.

Usually it is hand stitched to the sleeve, this is usually done so that the machine will not snag the fabric or the trim.

Sorry I have been so quick on answers will check back later, have an ill relative been at hospital during the day.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

hallngarden - I recently painted the inside of our home with a color called Revere Pewter by Benjamin Moore. Most of my postings have that color in the background. I describe it as a beige/gray. In my house, it leans more to the gray. I agree that in some of the pics it looks like it has a sage tone to it. In my home, I don't see any green or sage at all in it. I discovered this color from the GW Home Decorating Forum : )

Some of my other pics were taken when I was in the "office/computer room". Those pics are in my very first post (Jan.18,10 at 22:05 - the 4 pics with just one sleeve)
and also my post above this one..(Jan.26,10 at 2:01 - I'm wearing the black long sleeve t shirt under the muslin practice jacket). The paint in that room is called Navajo White. It's so old that I can't remember which company made it. It is more of a creamy beige and depending on the lighting, has a little yellow tone to it in my home.

Below, I've posted a link with pictures of the Revere Pewter in my home. Two of the pics at the end were taken when I had not completed painting. The previous wall color inside our home was all Navajo white. So, in those last couple pics, you will see the Revere pewter on the left and the Navajo White on the right.

Patti -
So sorry to hear you have a relative in the hospital : (
I hope they get better. Keep us posted.

-Laurie

Here is a link that might be useful: Revere Pewter Pictures


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Laurie, thank you so much for taking the time to send the pictures. The Revere Pewter looks perfect for our home. Going to look at the Benjamin Moore site and get the color number and have our friend pick it up and get started. Have always used Benjamin Moore colors. Thanks again, happy sewing.


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Love the paint color also, hmmmmmm thinking where we might use it.


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Laurie, keep watching for you to post. Are you going to surprise us with something beautiful.


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All the pieces are cut out. Couldn't sew yesterday..got side tracked.

I'm going to the bridal shower today : )

Tomorrow, I will be cooking and getting ready to have everyone over here for a birthday dinner (combo b-day celebration for my dh and future sil).

On Monday, I'll purchase the jacket trim. Next, will be to baste the cotton batiste to the silk dupioni. By the end of next week, I will have some pictures to post (hopefully)!

-Laurie


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Laurie,
Your doing so well, glad you got it cut out..
Hoping you have a nice time at the Shower and Birthday Party.
Wish your DH a Happy Birthday!!!
Hugs, Patti


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, just checking on your sewing project.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Not finished, yet. Maybe tomorrow or Sunday : )
So far, I am at the point where I have pinned the lining to the jacket. Tomorrow (Saturday), I will stitch all around, then trim seam allowances. After that, it says to understitch lining as far as possible. I was not happy with my understitching on the dress. Would it be a bad idea to skip the underlining step?
Then, I'll proceed to sew the sleeves...beginning with the easestitching. I'm going to be a little nervous about that. I was reading over previous posts. Patti- you mention that I should use a few rows of easing because it snugs the fabric within the seam allowances and doesn't let the fabric flop over and will add support to the seam allowance. I still invision that the 5/8" seam allowance will end up "flopping" to one side or another. The pattern instructions specify to only trim the armhole seam allowance between notches (which are located on the lower half of the armhole. The pattern also says to press seam allowances toward the sleeve.
I'm planning on adding the shoulder pad after the jacket is complete. Is that a mistake? Or should I put it in between
the lining and the jacket?

After cutting out the pieces, I use sticker dots to designate "right" sides of fabric. The stickers don't leave any marks behind. After I hand baste the underlining batiste to the silk Dupioni, I don't need the stickers anymore : )
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Batiste cotton underlining hand basted to the silk Dupioni. Afterwards, I machine basted around the edges.
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Time to watch my favorite TV program...As Time Goes By starring Judi Dench : )

-Laurie


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie:

I think you need all the underlining to give the silk body, so yes in my opinion it would be a mistake to omit it. I usually trim all the sleeve cap seam and overcast it. There might be a reason not to do it though on your garment so wait for Pattie on this.

If you are nervous about setting the sleeve in, then machine baste it in first. Then if you have puckers or anything you can just snip the basting thread to correct it. Then you can sew permanently on top of the basting line and it will be good.

As for the shoulder pads, I don't think it really matters. Usually they are sewn between the garment and lining when there is a lining, but if you are more comfortable doing it after then I don't see a problem with it.

Keep up the good work Laurie--you are almost there


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Myrna - thanks for your reply. I had made a mistake on my last post. These were my sentences: "After that, it says to understitch lining as far as possible. I was not happy with my understitching on the dress. Would it be a bad idea to skip the underlining step?" The second to the last word should have been "understitching".
Thanks for making me feel less nervous about setting the sleeve in. I'll remember that I can just snip the machine basted stitches to correct any puckers.
It's also good to know that I can add the shoulder pads last (after the jacket is completely finished).


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Hi Laurie, Your doing fine, keep it up.

Understitching, Here is some info on understitching, depending on the garment it is sometimes used on sharper curves. It also adds a secure stitch to facings or linings, I use it on some items but not on all....

Underlining agree it needs done, to hold shape, prevents some wrinkling, adds body to the fabric.

Sleeves, when talking about flop over was referring to using only one row of easing or gathering.
The sleeve cap will have cupping effect when using multiple rows of easing or gathering, that is a good thing, will fit into armhole little easier.
Now I still suggest basting the sleeve, helps reduce puckers, then when it looks smooth stay stitch.

The only thing nice about attaching the shoulder pads before lining the do not need covered, it is up to you.

Hope everyone handling the weather well got 20" of snow between yesterday and today....

Here is a link that might be useful: Understitching


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Patti- Thank you for the link and for clarifying about sleeves.
Wish we had a bit more "real" winter weather here in So.CA
A little rain makes big weather news, here : /


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Laurie, you are getting very close to completion. Been thinking about you folks that are in snow. DH and I were talking to today, and I was saying that I could not complain about all the rain we were getting. There were so many KT's in snow. We live on the coast so just lots of rain for us here. We are having lots of flooding here. Laurie, we have a 50th college anniversary in just a month or so. Have been debating as to whether I wanted to sew something for the events. Nothing is going to be formal so I may already have something in my closet. I may do a posting soon for suggestions of what to wear.


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Wow pattie!!

I am learning the names for things that I do but never knew that they had a name. Next time I tack that facing down I'll know that I'm understitching.


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Laurie, a couple of things. Understitching is essential to keep the facing from rolling to the outside. If the pattern calls for it, do it. Page 1 of your pattern instructions will tell you how to do it; it does not need to be perfect, as the lining will conceal it.

On such a garment as you are making, it would be a mistake not to put the shoulder pads between the jacket and the lining. You are making a fine silk garment; you will be doing yourself a disservice, after all your attention to detail, to leave the pads flapping on the outside of the lining. It is no more difficult to put them inside, and it won't take any more time.

Yes, baste the sleeves in place and work out any puckers. And yes, use the underlining.

You have a lot invested in this garment. Give it what it deserves.

Sherry


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Today has been sleeve day. It's taking a lot longer than I expected. The trim took up the most time. All those tiny beads! It was like performing surgery with my seam ripper, eye glasses & bright light. I got all the stuff off of the edges so the needle did not break when encasing the trim into the arm seam. Before stitching the arm seam, I hand stitched the trim (with clear thread) to the sleeve.

I wanted to take a break and post some pics. I machine basted 3 rows beginning at the 5/8" mark along the sleeve caps of both the linning and the fabric between the notches. The second and third rows are 1/8" apart. On the fabric, you will see a 4th row...that's where The batiste is basted to the fabric.

I tried the idea learned from one of you about using a towel rolled up and placed into the sleeve for a light pressing...worked well : )

hallngarden - How exciting for you to look forward to a college anniversary! Which college? I will keep an eye out for your posting about that : )

3 rows stitched onto lining sleeve cap
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3 rows stitched on to the fabric sleeve cap. The stitching at the bottom that continues along is where I machine basted the batiste to the dupioni fabric.
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This shows the trim placed along the edge of the sleeve.
I hand stitched the trim to the sleeve before machine stitching the long arm seam.
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Trim up close. At the bottom of the pic, you can just barely see a pin underneath the trim that was a guide to show where the 5/8" seam was going to be.
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Here I'm stitching the long arm seam.
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Towel rolled into sleeve.
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-Laurie


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, you are doing a beautiful job. You are going to be so proud of yourself when you have completed your project. Guess what got my attention, please tell me about your sewing machine . I have gone back to look at those picture of that beautiful machine. Please give us details on your sewing machine.


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, Agree your doing Awesome work...
The machine was a gift long time ago from her dear late mother. It is a Singer Featherweight, it is a beauty.
I am sure your mother would love the work your doing.

We are all so proud of how your doing!!!

Hugs, Patti


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Yes Laurie good work. Give yourself a pat on the back


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Thanks : )

Patti is correct...it's a Singer Featherweight (221). My mother was a fantastic sewer, knitter & crocheter. She loved collecting old machines like treadles and Featherweights.
She wanted to make sure all 7 of us kids had one. All 3 of my kids have one, as well...waiting for the day they will discover this little gem : )

Singer introduced the Featherweight 221 in 1933 and sold for about 37 years. My particular model # was probably made sometime in the mid 50's. It weighs about 11 pounds. Most were black, but some were made in beige and some in white. It has a carrying case, attachments & an instruction booklet. My mom also gave me the square table that the machine fits into. This summer, I really need to sand and refinish it.
I have heard that quilters like this machine very much. Possibly because it's so easy to transport to quilt groups and they like the way it stitches.
It's my little "baby".
Thanks for showing interest : )
-Laurie


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Thanks for answering. What a gem. That is such a gift of love, making sure that all 7 had sewing machines. I can only imagine all the wonderful things your mother would sew, knit and crochet. Now, I know why you have such an eye for detail. Cheering you on to the finish line. My mother and I still use her old treadle machine for sewing. The machine I use everyday was bought in the sixties, its a Singer in a cabinet. We need to research the date of the treadle. Its sews perfect. Continue on with the good work.


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I machine basted one of the sleeves into the arm hole. There are a few tucks. I guess I should clip the stitching only in those few tucked areas to loosen the fabric. Then baste those areas again?

Pinned and eased:
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I'm not wearing it in any pictures. Just holding it up so you can see the seams.

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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie:

Yes you will have to release those puckers.

When you put the pins in the sleeve, put them so the head is to the outside not the inside like you have them. You can also space them a little further apart. Then sew to a pin stop with the needle down, leave the pressure foot down too, pull out the pin and lift the fabric a bit and look underneath to see that everything is flat. Then sew to the next pin. If you notice a pucker coming on top stop the same way and spread your gathers a bit until the pucker disappears.

These are little things we do but don't often think to tell others to do them.

The jacket is really taking shape. I can't wait for the fashion show.


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Laurie: If you are more comfortable with the pins that close together then leave them


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

I will try and release the puckers today. Yes, while I was sewing, I noticed that the pins were hard to take out & I had wished that the pin heads were on the outside!

I'm in a bit of a dilemma. The jacket is too large : (
Mainly in the bust area. Sleeves are too big & a bit too long. Shoulders are still a bit too wide. When I put the 1/4" shoulder pads in, that will help. I may go and buy 1/2" pads to see if that is even better.

I have learned so much from this process and I know I'll be a better sewer as I continue to learn by experience. Looking back, I would not have picked a fabric with this much shine. The shine tends to accentuate every little flaw like baggy/looseness, little tucks, etc.

I should have taken more time in adjusting the practice jacket...probably should have made a size 16 instead of the 18.

I will baste in both sleeves and take a picture so you can see. It might not come across on the computer monitor as looking so huge on me, but if you were here and could see it in person, you would agree with me, I'm sure. It feels even larger than my practice jacket...I believe that's because of the lining- it's so silky & slippery that I feel like I'm swimming in this : (

I cannot get any more of this particular fabric (another learning experience) because fabric.com does not have any more. I will brainstorm some options and if you have any...feel free to tell me.

Some options:

See how much fabric is left for a possible shawl.

Make some sort of button, pin, snap or something to close the front of the jacket to help it "fit".

Use larger shoulder pads.

Buy fabric (that doesn't need underlining & no/or less shine) & sew a new dress & jacket.

Take my jacket to a local tailor who can make the alterations.

Sorry for this "drama" and I really wish I could be saying that it fits perfect. I am disappointed but not discouraged from sewing at all. Thank you for sticking with me and I have learned a lot and will continue to learn and get more experience with each step of the way.

-Laurie


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Laurie, to save the jacket, try this:

Rip all the seams in the jacket, press the pieces flat, pin the size 16 pattern pieces on the jacket pieces and begin again, making all the adjustments as you recut the jacket pieces. It's a big nuisance, but worth it to save the jacket.

I suggest that you try using only one line of ease stitching to set in the sleeves, since three lines are not working for you. Three lines do not work for me, either, but one line does.

Also: are both sides of the fabric equally shiny? You can use it wrong side out if you prefer that side. It will provide a lovely change from the shininess of the dress. I have done that, also, and used the shiny side to pipe the edges of the jacket.

You have a lot invested in this jacket. If I were in your shoes (and yes, I have been!) I would give it another try, and then talk to the tailor.

Sherry


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

Sorry know some of it is frustrating. Know how hard you are working.
I would go check with a local tailor, they can probably do or suggest the adjustments in a short amount of time.
I do not think it needs a great deal of tweaking. It is knowing exactly where to alter.
Your right sometimes hard to suggest the exact alteration when we are not seeing the actual garment at hand.

The puckering on the shoulder, the top of the sleeve gathering/easing can be spread out more or made a little looser.

I am still very proud of the work and effort you have put into this.

Keep us updated on what you decide to do.
Hugs, Patti


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

I just looked at the pattern instructions you posted, Laurie. It looks like the lining is not what I thought - I don't think I've ever seen that construction for a fine suit jacket. Usually, the lining is constructed separately from the jacket and slipped inside the nearly finished jacket; there are no unfinished seams showing on the inside, and shoulder pads lay concealed between the jacket and the lining.

Are you trying to set in sleeves of two layers (fashion silk and underlining) to three layers (fashion silk, underlining, and lining) of jacket? If that is the case, no wonder you're having trouble with puckers! Will the sleeve seams be visible on the inside of the jacket?

I hope I have misread something here.

Sherry


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Sherry,
Laurie followed the pattern directions perfectly,if you saw the Instruction sheet where the sleeve put in the Armhole look just below it says to slip stitch sleeve lining to the armhole.

Depending on the style of the jacket, Linings are constructed in many ways, I have seen and used this in Top of the Line construction where the cap of the lining is sewn by hand. This is often done when lace or trim added to the sleeve.

Another type is bag method, though not suited to Laurie's Jacket. There is always some slip/hand stitching somewhere in most types of lining.

Some linings may be pulled through sleeve seams or back seams. Then there are ones that are hemmed and hand stitched to entire facings and sleeve cuffs.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bag Method of lining


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RE: Jacket for Evening Dress

I stand corrected.
OOPS Just notice the lining is constructed possibly with raw edge, cannot see rest of instructions may suggest a bias cover for edge.
I have seen the sleeve lining hand stitched to shoulder


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Sherry & Patti - Thank you, again, for more good ideas. I really do mean it when I tell you how much I appreciate your comments and ideas & encouragement! Patti- I did get your email with the link. It shows a lot of common fitting problems & solutions and has some very good pictures (I really like pictures, it helps me understand much better). Sherry- both sides of the fabric are equally shiny : (
No seams are showing on the inside of the (completed) jacket. The lining is sewn together, just like the fabric. Then, the two are placed right sides together & then I stitched ALL the way around...sides, bottom, front & neck. I only hand baste the armhole edges. The sleeve & sleeve lining are done together & later attached to the arm hole. I left the sleeve lining free while I stitched the sleeve to the arm hole. Last step is to slip sleeve lining over sleeve, adjust ease & slipstitch.

The only thing I did (regarding the jacket), today , was to buy 5/8" shoulder pads and to think about what I want to do. I am leaning towards taking my jacket to a tailor and discussing it with him/her.

I'll keep you posted.

-Laurie


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Laurie:

Your explaination of the construction makes more sense. I couldn't see a pattern calling for lining and having the raw sleeve edge showing. It just didn't make sense.

I think the tailor is the best idea. Like Pattie said it probably doesn't need much, just a little tweeking. It's knowing where to tweek that's the problem. It would be much easier to help if we were there.

Your sewing is so neat and you are doing such a good job, it would be a shame not to get the look you are going for.

I'll be thinking about you and praying everything goes well for you.


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Laurie, We will still be here for you, we think your the greatest.. Let us know what you decide to do.
Hugs, Patti


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Thank you, you are my sewing angels and you're the nicest group of people!

I feel these past two days I needed to step away emotionally & physically from this jacket. I am glad I did that. Today, I tried it on, again, and it doesn't seem as bad as it did on Sunday. I even showed my neighbor who I know has good taste and she would tell me her honest opinion. She sees the extra fullness in the bust area, but doesn't think it's major. She feels a professional pressing will be all that's needed. She also agreed with the use of shoulder pads. Her last suggestion is something I hadn't thought of...a padded bra. I really don't want to add any weight/size to my body, but I'm willing to be open to the idea of at least trying it out.

I'm still thinking...but now leaning towards removing those little tucks at the armhole like we talked about & then add the other sleeve.

Then, try the 5/8" shoulder pads & maybe a padded bra.

If it looks decent, then I'll get everything professionally pressed & that will be that.

Sound like a plan?
Any other comments/ideas?

Here are 4 pics taken today. No shoulder pads & the little tucks in the arm hole have not been released. The actual dress top has a little bit more body to it compared to the sleeveless thin t-shirt top I'm wearing here. When you look at the front darts, they appear to go up higher than they actually do. There is a void between my body & the fabric, hence the buckle inward of the fabric there : /

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Sent you an email, might be a weather problem, cannot seem to do a post...LOL watch this one go through it erased 3 others.


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A heartfelt shout out to Patti for sending a search through her other sewing friends on other forums for a tailor/seamstress in my area of Southern California. I explained the whole experience to Patti in detail through email. Botttom line is that I feel very peaceful about this particular tailor that I found through Patti's help. The tailor pinned the sides, the back & the arms & she showed me how much she'll shorten the sleeves. I feel a sense of peace, but I also feel like I've left one of my children at a hospital for an operation! I will post pictures when it's completed.
-Laurie


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Bravo Pattie!!!
You sure lucked out Laurie when Pattie came to help. I doubt any of the rest of us here could have done as much to help you as she has. I'll be looking forward to the model of the completed outfit.


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How wonderful that Patti help you find the tailor. That is what this forum is all about, being able to reach out and help one another. Patti, knew you were an amazing person from your postings. All of you that were posting to Laurie were being so helpful. I was just sitting here on the sidelines cheering all of you on to the finish. Laurie, knew you had great coaches from the start. With my older brain, it was best that I was a cheerleader instead of a coach. I continue to sew, but not as much with details as when I was much younger. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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Laurie,
Helping each other is what it is all about, your dedication to the projects just warmed my heart.
We are all so proud of you!!!!

When asking some of my sewing friends for help, I asked that whomever the choose please make sure they are sensitive to Laurie's needs not pushy or aggressive.

I got 4 emails this morning makings sure you found someone, told them about seamstress and how you seem to interact with her. They were all thrilled.

No matter how experienced we are, sometimes it takes a different set of eyes or a hands on approach.

Like the others I am looking forward to seeing the finished outfit all together..

*Myrna, Believe me you are a great help to all on the GW forum always helping and suggestion solutions.

*hallngarden, your more than a cheerleader, you always have positive input and encouragement for others.

Big Hugs, Patti


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This has been a wonderful thread to follow. The questions were clear and concise and photos right on. Everyone did a fantastic job in guiding Laurie as far as she could go and that's great. I must admit it had me looking for my books I packed away a long time ago. Especially those on alterations and altering for problem areas. Unfortunately, I couldn't locate what I was looking for but Patti got Laurie the help she needs and all is well. You're going to be the belle of the wedding ball when you walk in in that gorgeous outfit.


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Laurie: anxious to hear from you. Do you have an idea as to how long it will take the tailor. If they are like the ones around here, they stay very busy. Lady that lives beside me is a tailor, and she is in such demand. Sometimes I see her lights on very late at night or rather early morning. Think in this economy, folks that have nice clothes are using a tailor for repairs. Know you are going to be so happy with the end result.


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Myrna, Hallngarden, Patti and Pris - Thanks for your continued support and interest : )
I have not heard anything from the tailor. I did tell her when the wedding is (April 17) and I told her to take her time. She did not give me a time frame and I did not ask.
She was working with another mother of the bride at the time I arrived there. It was fascinating for me to watch all the pinning and discussion between them. The shop is located in a small outdoor shopping area. It's not visible from the street. It's tucked away in the back. I'm guessing that she gets most business by word of mouth, but does have a nice web site.

I left it with her on Thursday. I was thinking of giving her a call this Thursday just to touch bases and get a feel for a time frame that it might be ready.


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Oh Laurie, where are you. I am getting anxious to see the final result. Realize there is still plenty of time before April 17th. Know you have been busy getting other things ready. Just a note to say we support you.


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hallngarden- Thank you for your support! I did stop by the tailor's shop last Thursday when I was out doing errands. I gave her a little extra fabric in case she needs it to cover the shoulder pads. She was appreciative for that and told me she was just getting ready to start working on the jacket.
I am anxious to see how it fits when she's done! I am glad that I've been busy doing other tasks for the wedding. Sometime, I will take a picture of the small clutch purse (that is made with the same dress fabric) and post it : )

Last Tuesday, dd and I assembled the invitations and mailed them.This week I've been receiving the RSVP's and keeping track of who's coming and their entree choice. I am also researching "candy station" items for the reception.

Can't believe Feb. is almost over! I hear about all the snow on the news that people to the East are still battling.
Hopefully, Spring will arrive very soon so they can dry out and feel the warmth of the sun : )

-Laurie


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Hi Laurie, Wow you have a lot on your plate right now, sounds like your handling it well.....
Looking forward to seeing the purse and the jacket when finished....
Thank you for wishing we people in the east an early spring. We all have a fingers crossed...
Hugs, Patti


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Hi again Laurie: All of your hard work will pay off getting ready for April 17th. I could not get the smile off my face on our daughters wedding day. She lived five hours away from us during the time of planning the wedding. Shortly after she was engaged she was visiting in DC and went to Vera Wang just to look, found the perfect gown. We were vacationing and could not get back to see the gown. They don't normally allow you to photograph the gowns but after speaking to me knew there was no way we could get there. I did not see the gown on her until the day of the wedding. Her DC friend picked up the gown to bring it to the wedding. First time we saw it on her was the day of the wedding, you talk about taking my breath away. Trust me the most beautiful bride in the history of brides. Every mother in the universe will say the same. So, I say all this to say, this is your daughter's day, but will also be the most wonderful day of your life. The second most wonderful day of our lives was two years later when they announced the coming of our first granddaughter, and the next year the coming of our grandson. After being married 50 years we were ready for all of this good news. So I said all of this to say, I wish for you and your family the most wonderful time of celebrating a wonderful event that you will remember for the rest of your lives. When you have on that beautiful gown that you worked so hard on getting just right, all of the other stumbling blocks will fade away. My best wishes to you and yours in the upcoming event.


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Thank you! I love hearing happy stories about weddings!! I am getting more excited with each week. Below, is a link to my daughter's wedding gown. She wants to wear the veil I wore at my wedding.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wedding Gown


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Laurie, that is the most beautiful wedding gown. Thank you for posting the picture. How special is that she is going to wear your veil at her wedding. I had thought years back that I would make my daughters wedding gown. So glad that I didn't take that on. My gown and my mothers was enough work for me. She got married in July and I had both of our gowns ready in December, and also the dresses for the parties. A wedding gown would have taken me over the edge. It felt good to have all of the sewing done before Christmas. The three of us stay about the same size over the years, so knew they would surely still fit in 6 months. We were also very fortunate, that several families helped us with all the planning in the town where she was living at the time. Can't wait to see the progress you make on you plans.


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My daughter also is having a sheer short sleeve bolero to go with her gown. We bought some ivory (matches the color of her dress) organza fabric. She showed this picture of a bolero that she really likes (link posted below) to the tailor who is doing the alterations on her gown and they will be sewing it for her.

Here is a link that might be useful: Organza Bolero


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Laurie, the bolero is beautiful. Can't help but feel that your mother had a great influence on your fashion choices and also your daughter. Can't wait to see the beautiful pictures. What I am hoping is that our granddaughter will wear her mother's gown at her wedding. Of course she is only 2, but that is our hope. Our daughter had wanted me to wear her gown on our 50th wedding anniversary, even though we weigh the same, there is a difference in the proportions of the now 36 year old body and my 72 year old body. It was already sealed, so I didn't want us to have to seal it again, for me to prove that I could not get all of my body in her gown. Her waist is still 23, but mine is just a little more at my age. Thanks for letting us stand on the sidelines watching all the wedding plans.


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Laurie Pictures of gown, veil and bolero are beautiful, what a wonderful warm feeling you must have that she will be wearing your veil.
Think we are all excited for your daughter and your family.


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Just got home from work, today (Monday). Found out the jacket is ready and that the cost will be $85. Not sure if that's a reasonable price or not. Anyway, if it's just perfect, then I will be extremely happy. The total cost of everything total will still be a lot less than if I had purchased at a store.

When I bring it home (probably tomorrow - late afternoon), I'll take pictures and post them.


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Jacket's finished!

Well, I am happy to report that the jacket looks SO MUCH better! The tailor did a great job : )

I tried it on in her shop with my dress and shoes. She was very sweet and kept telling me what a nice job I did. I left all three pieces with her to be pressed. I can see the seams looked much nicer on the jacket where she had pressed/ironed them. She will make all the seams on the skirt & top look better, as well.

I won't forget to post pictures when I bring it all back home.
-Laurie


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So glad to hear the good news. Knew the tailor would do a wonderful job. Laurie, yes, you did a beautiful job in your sewing. I am so proud of the time you took with your sewing. You had done all the hard work, that pressing makes a huge difference. You were so smart to get the last details tweaked so you could go on to other items to get ready for the wedding. How silly I would be some nights or rather over in the mornings sitting at my machine thinking what was I thinking when I took this on. You will be an amazing mother of the bride.


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Hoping it all worked out, anxious to hear about and see the jacket.


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Laurie sent you a pm, I seem to get delayed messages when using GW, I did not see your post or hallngarden
on my last post.

Excited for you looking forward to seeing the finished outfit and evening bag...

So happy that you are pleased with the tailor's work.
Will check in tomorrow.


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Laurie, just checking in to see if most of your wedding plans are in order. Know you have been very busy during this time.


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Thanks for thinking of me. It seems like a long time that the dress and jacket have been away at the tailor. It's been 9 days and she was only going to press the seams. I did find out that she is the owner and sole worker (no employees). She must be busy and not had time to get to my dress. I don't want to pressure her, yet I am anxious to get it home. I also want to post pics for you to see.

The RSVP's have been arriving by mail a little slower than expected. Still, more than half have replied. In the next 9 days we should have every reply in. If not, then I need to email and/or call people who forgot. Dd and I met with the florist today and the sample centerpiece looked amazing!
Dd left a large roll of light blue (cornflower blue?) velvet ribbon with the florist.
The dress I will wear to the rehearsal dinner came in today's mail and I like it a lot (ivory with floral print). Dd suggested that it would be a good dress for me. I like Talbot's clothing (see link below) and I didn't want to tackle trying to sew another dress so close to the wedding! I am looking forward to sewing after the wedding's over and everything settles down.

-Laurie

Here is a link that might be useful: Talbot's dress - rehearsal dinner


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Just the thought of all the work that goes into a wedding is exhausting! I don't know how you do it and make your own dress. Your rehearsal dinner dress is lovely too. We're all looking forward to your pictures when you get it back. You're definetly going to be the belle of the ball.


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Laurie, thanks for taking the time to answer. Know how those last minute details take a bit of time. After daughters wedding I try to be more careful about answering the rsvp's sooner now. That was the main problem that we encountered. We had a full sit down dinner and at the last minute we had some to respond , so the caterer was wonderful, she took care of the extra at the last minute. Love your rehearsal dinner dress. Can't wait to see all the pictures after the wedding. Laurie, just know that we are thinking of you. Hope by the time of the wedding, you can just kick back and love the ride. I had made up my mind when we were driving down for the wedding that it was going to be a wonderful week of parties. Know it will be an exciting time for all of your family to remember for the rest of your life. Hope you inspire me to get started on my outfits for the college reunion, its on April 10th. I bought two outfits and now I don't think they are the ones I want. Now, its just about a month away, have no outfits. Talbots or J Crew thing fit me perfect off the rack, so hoping to find time just to shop again and find something that feels good to me. Have lots of fun with the upcoming events.


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pris & hallngarden - Thanks. It's so helpful to read encouraging words!

hallngarden- can you post the outfits you are deciding between? What time of day is the event and the type of venue?
Is there a JCrew or Talbots near you? What I am finding is that these stores have a lot more available online compared to what's stocked in the stores.

I plan to give the tailor a call this Monday.

-Laurie


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Hi Laurie: Went out shopping this morning. The reunion is going to be very casual. Just a catered bbq for lunch outside, and a dinner buffet that night. So I am thinking very casual for lunch, and just a little dressy at night. This morning I went to Ann Taylor Loft to look around. Sometimes I am just not in the mood to shop, and this was one of those days. I love wearing jeans that are dressed up with silk blouses and jewelry, so I may wear jeans for both events. Didn't take back the outfits that I bought earlier. We have a JCrew and Talbots here so I need to get serious about looking. Tomorrow after church, I plan to start looking again, we are planning on a trip this next weekend, so I need to get organized. May end up just using something in my closet. About two years ago , I took a whole new approach to clothing. In our old house, guess I had two walk in closets completely full of clothing that I never wore. When we moved to our new home, gave the goodwill and salvations lots of really good clothes. Decided all I wanted to have were a few good pieces that I could mix and match. In all the clothes I had, I only kept about a dozen pieces, and now I take a look before I buy to make sure it goes with what I already have. I grew up very poor , and have always blamed that for my obsession with having lots of clothes. It had finally gotten to be a hindrance in my life having so many, it was as though the closet was full and nothing to wear. Its so great now, opening the door and I can select in 5 minutes my outfit for the day. Laurie, you have inspired me to look for a singer featherweight. Habitat is a favorite place for us to spend time , must be lots of us out there looking. One Saturday, I walked in and spotted , one, a gentleman was standing there, said his wife had placed him there while she decided. Didn't want her to think I was pushy, so I moved on to something else and decided to go back later and see if she decided. Knew if I was just standing there , she will feel she had to go ahead and purchase. When we finished our shopping I walked back and she had bought it. Ifs it meant for me to have one, I will run into it somewhere when I am out looking. Going to take your advice and look on line at some of the sites to see if any clothing catches my eye.


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Hi everyone..Sound like everyone is busy.
Laurie Love the dress from Talbots.
Oh how well I remember the RSVP(S), amazing how slow some are to reply.
Looking forward to seeing your finished outfit..

Hallngarden isn't it an amazing experience going through the clothing and shoes that you have only worn once or twice.

Hope you all have a nice weekend....


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OK, the wedding is fast approaching (26 days to go)! As promised, I have pictures to show you all. It's strange how the pictures of the dress/jacket material looks so much darker in the house with the flash. Dh took these pics outdoors with natural lighting.

Not sure how much of the time I'll be wearing the jacket at the wedding. Both ceremony and reception are indoors. I think for most of the reception, I'll not be wearing the jacket. My favorite parts of the outfit are the little silver/rhinestones accents at : the jacket wrist, the shoes (they are silver), clutch, and the earrings. The earrings are special because they were my mother's. Just costume jewelry, but vintage looking and sentimental to me. They were originally the screw back type, but I took them in to a shop and had them converted for pierced ears. I feel no need to wear a necklace. That may be too much for me.

I had fun with the clutch. Thanks to Patti for the pattern. I used the smaller pattern for a 9-1/2" clutch. I used a satin silver ribbon to cover the thin piping. I realized, later, that I should have used silver fabric and cut it on the bias for that. It would have "turned the corners" a little better. Oh well, I still like it. I used a magnetic snap and it works well. The silver sparkly button is just tacked to the front for looks. The clutch is lined with the same lining fabric as the dress. In the pics, it just looks like cotton, but in person, it looks much better.
The silver shoes have some sequines & rhinestones. They have a 1-1/2" heel and are very comfortable.

I can not thank all of you wonderful sewing angels enough for your information, suggestions, detailed instructions, your genuine concern and encouragement! This dress and jacket belongs to all of you just as much as for me! When I am at the wedding, a part of you will be with me : )

-Laurie

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My skirt hem is bent up a little here (ignore it)
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Stunning, Laurie! Congratulations. Your accessories are just perfect. Enjoy these last few weeks until the wedding, and savor every moment of the big day. This has been a great pleasure for me.

Sherry


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Good going Laurie!!!

The jacket fits very well and the whole outfit is wonderful. Your purse,shoes and earrings are just the best finishing touches. I agree you need no more jewelry than your beautiful antique earrings, anything more would be too much. As it is now is perfect.

Enjoy the wedding--it is a special time.


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I can see you now, being escorted down the aisle and seated as the Mother of the Bride. Beautiful! You can be really proud of the job you've done. Enjoy.


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Laurie, you brought a tear to my eye remembering our daughters wedding. Your dress and accessories are beautiful. Laurie, thank you so much for allowing us to watch this process of everything coming together. I also have my outfits together for the reunion. Daughter went to Ann Taylor this weekend while I was out of town and bought me three beautiful outfits that fit me perfect. Only thing left for me to get are the shoes. Laurie, after your wedding is over, want to talk to you about a featherweight. Had a delightful surprise in our garage this weekend. We drove back home to our original home for the weekend. I just happened to be rambling around in the garage. Found a cabinet with a black sewing machine that that gold emblems on the front and back, also a silver plate on the side plate. Gold marking are on the machine in different areas. I did look at the numbers on the back that we near the light. Didn't have much time, so I didn't get the numbers off the machine. We go back in two weeks and will get more info off the machine. I found this machine on the street several years back and had forgotten about it. When your activities are over we will figure out if this is a featherweight. Don't let me mislead you as to the condition. The electrical parts looks as thought something had been eating on the cords, so it would need some repairs, I really didn't look at the machine when I picked up the wooden cabinet on the street as that is what I was interested in and not the machine. Laurie, you have the most wonderful time at the wedding, and look forward to pictures of the wedding. You are going to be the most beautiful mother of the bride. Go have lots of fun on this very special day, and know daughter is the most beautiful bride.


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Laurie,
It is all beautiful, we are are so proud of you!!!!!! Your Awesome!!!!!!! Hugs Patti


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Laurie, doubt if you are checking this site just days away from your daughters wedding. Just know that we are excited for you after all the hard work. Know everything is going to be perfect. My event with the reunion was last weekend and I have lots of beautiful memories. When you get a chance after the wedding let us know your thoughts. Thinking of you and your family during this happy time.


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The wedding was so beautiful and joyous! I am so pleased about the way everything turned out. The bride and groom were beaming with love and happiness. Having all close friends and relatives gathered for this special day was an amazing feeling.

I wore the jacket for the ceremony. At the reception site, I took it off and it stayed on the back of my chair for the evening. I don't have any pictures, yet, with the jacket on. I'll post when I get some.

The wedding ceremony was held in a Catholic Church in San Diego, CA. The reception was at a separate location about 15 minutes away. Dd wore my veil (from my wedding) during the ceremony : )

Hallngarden - so glad to hear your reunion turned out so well. What did you end up wearing? Any pics to share?
Thank you for your happy thoughts and well wishes : )

Laurie

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Thank you for these photos, Laurie! They're just beautiful. A beautiful bride and her parents - two handsome couples. Congratulations on a job well done.

Sherry


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Beautiful bride and an equally gorgeous mother of the bride. You absolutely did a professional job. You can certainly be proud.


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Laurie, its hard to find words. Yes, two very beautiful couples. Your gown was beautiful, and you did a wonderful job. There is a lot of love in your gown. Your daughter and her husband are stunning. Sorry I don't have any pictures but ended up with three outfits from Ann Taylor Petite. Didn't need but two but loved all three, Of course, I have already worn the other one that I didn't use for the reunion. My most exciting news was finding the featherweight machine in our garage. I had totally forgotten about picking up the cabinet, only reason I picked it up was for the cabinet. I was just rambling around in our garage back at our other home , and when I opened it, was surprised to see the machine. We won't go back there until June and I will get the numbers off the machine and that way we can figure out if its a featherweight. Its black, with the gold, and a silver plate on the side, I looked back at yours, it looks very close but once I get the numbers we can figure it out. So happy for you and yours, know everything was perfect, and thank you so much for letting us tag along in the excitement of the beautiful wedding.


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Thank you for your kind words and sharing in my hapiness : )
Dh and I are going on a vacation. I brought a book on basic upholstery. That's going to be my next big project! I hope some of you will have experience in this area. hallengarden- so happy about your featherweight find...what a real treasure!
You will love it : ) I'll check back in to the forum upon my return.
Laurie


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WOW! Mother of the bride looked GORGEOUS! Good job!!!


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What an interesting thread this was and what a testament to what a sewing forum should look and feel like....

Congrats on your beautiful dress and jacket...


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This has been an amazing set of threads. I wish I could see those last two pictures Laurie posted. The dress and jacket are gorgeous and I am so impressed that you did this and put so much time into the practice parts so the finished dress was perfect. I hope after all that that you did get to wear it again.


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