A good thing to do is to get in the habit of drawing the same plant symbols for the same plant every time (and at the same size). This helps you feel the scale of the drawing and makes the design much more familiar to you over time. You will know when you are crowding your inkberries or when you are getting spotty just by looking at the plan without measuring (this is more true when using cad). Graph paper and the other techniques lnscapr mentioned are great. They speed you up and keep you neat at the same time. The biggest improvement usually comes when you start using thicker pens (heavier line weight) for things like houses, sheds, and pools, somewhat thinner pens for driveways, walkways, porches, decks, etc,.., a little thinner for bed lines, some plant symbols, text, ..., and very fine pens for other plant symbols and fine textured hatching (adding patterns to areas for such things as ground covers, annuals, decking, bricks,...). Stipples (or dots) added around the edges of things adds a lot of life to a plan. A huge thing is light, shade, and shadow. This really pops a drawing and is very easy. If you use color, make your plants two tone (at least) by filling the symbol with a lighter color and adding a darker one in the lower right third of it (you don't want to shade the upper side of a symbol on a plan regardless of where north is because it looks weird on the plan). Outside of the symbol, add a black shadow around that lower right part of it. Also add shadow on the right side and bottom side of any building or raised element. It will shock you how much it changes the look.

Another helpful tip I've discovered that makes using the tubes easier is to save the plastic "clamshell" containers that strawberries come in these days. The sides are high enough to help keep a full complement of tubes upright & the bottoms already have plenty of drainage holes. If you cut your tubes short, you can even close the top to make a "mini-greenhouse". I am also finding these plastic clamshell containers invaluable as "mini greenhouses" for seed starting even without using the tubes. Just fill with your soil mix, plant, & close the lid. Not only do these containers work great, but they are durable enough to be used several seasons. I have quite a collection now in all different sizes.

I really like paper piecing and have use all the above papers at some time. My favorite is the cheapest copier paper I can find. Like Teresa said I don't see why you would have to see throught it but even copier paper is seen through if held to the light. I fold every line before I start. This gives me a visual on the side for the fabric and helps in the removal of the paper when it is finished. I also use very small stitches. Cathy(woodenzoo), although I have a roll of the pattern tracing paper I have not actually tried it. I think however it would be especially good if I wanted several of the same pattern and sewed through a stack with a needle only technique which someone mentioned above. I have used regular tracing paper that comes in a pad but my experience is when I press it with the iron on each seam it becomes brittle and sometimes comes off the fabris before I'm ready. I,too, think you paid a lot for the paper. PP is so much fun don't let paper be a reason not to do it. At that price I'd be reluctant to do much. Just my opinion. Sally

You mean: no manufacture that you know of who makes wood doors will make a 2 panel 10' sliding door. right? Because I know of at least 1 that will make it in vinyl or aluminum. Would I sell one to a customer, sure, if they REALLY wanted it and they would have to sign a waiver, and install would probably be as much as the door. But they make it. Back to the topic. You definitively should be able to find someone that makes a wood clad or aluminum 3 panel door that is around 5k.