I dont' know about iron-on velcro, but I have used an iron-on technique with adhesive-backed velcro. Get some velcro with the regular adhesive backing, apply it where you want it, put a pressing cloth over it and ironing from the back side, use your iron to set it in place. Iron from the back side so that you don't accidentally melt the loops of the velcro. The adhesive will melt into the fibers of your fabric, and remain virtually indestructable. I know because once I put the velcro in the wrong spot and tried to move it! It wasn't budging! Good luck.

How tall are the kids, shoulder to floor? Say they are 3 feet...then buy 2 yds of polar fleece per child, then fold the piece in half so you have a doubled rectangle that is 1 yd long. Cut a neck hole ... A semi circle...in the center of the fold through both layers of fabric. Then cut a slit through just the top layer from the neck hole to the edge. You now have a robe with open sides. If necessary, you can cut the sides in to fit the length go the child's arms better...or it may be fine. Buy some cording to use as a belt to wrap around the waist to hold the robe shut. The beauty of polar fleece is it will not ravel. If you want to get more complicated, you can buy some fabric glue to glue the side seams shut, but not all the way up so there is room for the arms to go through.

Hi sheesharee, Let me take these in order - Lining fabric is sold at any store that carries home dec fabric. It's usually white or off-white and comes 54" wide. I buy mine on eBay about 20 yards at at time, since I use quite a bit of it. It comes in all cotton, all poly and cotton/poly blends. Joann Fabric has many different linings. Pin your fabric ALL the way around. I use a pin about every 3". You can leave the opening for turning on the top, side or on the bottom. As noted above, if the openings you leave on the sides near the top are large enough, based on the type of curtain rod you are using, these openings may be large enough to use for turning the fabric. The opening that you leave for turning your fabric right side out must be left OPEN. You will choose where to leave your opening - I suggest the bottom or on a side. Wherever you leave it - stitch across the top of your valance using a half inch seam. Stitch across the bottom of it next. Now stitch each side, from top to bottom, using the seam allowance. Doing it in this order reduces the chance of puckering. BUT, you must also leave the openings near the top of each side that will become the openings for your rod pockets. If they are large enough, you do not need to leave another opening to turn the fabric. You can stick your hand in the rod pocket openings to turn it. No, if you do it correctly, the opening that you have left open, when you turn and press your valance, will be folded under by ironing. It will fold in itself as you iron. You simply need to cut the fusible tape to the length of that opening, place the tape inside on top of the folded fabric edge, and press it closed. It will look just the same as the stitched fabric above and below it. I suggest cutting off the selvages, which are the white parts with the writing, before you pin the fabric and lining together. This assures that you will not see that writing through the lining when you finish your valance. You will see in the 3rd paragraph above where I say that I use about 1 1/4 yards of fabric for the length of my valances. This extra fabric is needed for the folds that are created when you tie up the fabric. However, if you are making this for a short window, you can buy less. The center 'drop' on my finished valances after tying them up is generally 20" - 24", but there are folds in that, as you see above in the pic, or in the one below that shows it clearly. I'd always err on the side of it being too long, rather than too short. When it's short it looks skimpy and cheap, IMO. You can tie it up as high or as low as you want, but the folds add richness to the valance. Here is a link that might be useful: see lining fabric here on ebay

On the seat cushions, if the cover is removable, try using a crochet hook from the wrong side. Poke the hook through the fabric, snare the loose thread and wrap it once or twice around the hook and then gently pull it back through. I do this on snagged sweaters and things all the time. The crochet hook can probably also poke some of the loose threads back in from the right side, where the snags are on the arms. Get a very small hook and be prepared to go slowly and use a lot of patience. I have sometimes seen a gizmo sold as a sweater snag repairer that would probably also work. If you can't pull or push the snags to the back side of the fabric, you can cut them. Then use the Fray Check that bac717 mentioned. A woven fabric won't unravel, the way a knitted fabric would. The Fray Check is just added insurance. My cats have totally destroyed one of my chairs. But since they have always confined the scratching to this one chair and will leave all the others alone, I just put the chair in my study where no one but me sees it. Why they have to attack the most comfortable chair in the house eludes me. But there is no more cording on the front legs, the stuffing is coming through on the side and even though I trim the snags regularly, those darned cats just keep creating more. (This is how I know that snipping the threads won't cause the whole thing to unravel. I'd have lost this chair 10 years ago if that were the case.)