You may also want to list which ones do well in different zones. I believe only the Tazettas return in most Southern California gardens, for instance, and can people grow daffs in Florida? Good Idea...for now have added "3-A-Daffodils for Southern Gardens and parts of California(zones 9-11)" can/will list various Div 8 (Tazettas) available from B and B and list the garden zones for them. Aspacia-zones 5-9 Avalanche-zones 6-9 Chinese Sacred Lily-Nickname Paper White-zone 8-11 Falconet-zones 5-9 Galilee-Nickname Paper White-zones 8-11 Geranium-zones 5-9 Golden Rain-Nickname Paper White-zones 8-11 Grand Soleil d'Or-Nickname Paper White-zones 8-11 Martinette-zones 4-9 Silver Chimes-zones 5-9 Ziva=Nickname Paper White-Zones 8-11 Ok, now after listing them I see it would be best to group them by those that can be grown in zone 9 and those that can be grown in zone 11...will copy and note on GD (google document) Final wording for the FAQ and what is listed can be finalized later I hesitate to say "Florida" since there are different zones in FL, nd what will be all right in N FL, won't bloom in S FL. Yesterday I also started an outline for the FAQ, but didn't want to monopolize the forum by posting too much. I'll post it now...probably should have yesterday...anyway, as you can see, the first FAQ covers one's Garden Zone, how to find it, and why it is important. FAQ Bulb Forum Outline 10-14-2010

Thanks SC77, There are several Blue Seal dealers within 10 miles of my home or my place of work. All, Below I posted the products available. Any thoughts on which one to use? The information given did not listed amount of sq/ft coverage per 50lbs bag. Do you know what the coverage might be? Safe 'N Simple Pre��"emergence Weed Control 9��"0��"0 100% organic, Safe 'N Simpleî Pre-emergence Weed Control 9-0-0 is an all-natural plant product made from Corn Gluten, a dried protein separated from corn during the manufacture of starch in the food industry. In 1985, while studying its value as a fertilizer, researchers at Iowa State University discovered that Corn Gluten contains a natural organic compound which inhibits root development in seedlings. Germination occurs, but seedlings die from lack of a root system. The result is an environmentally safe, non-toxic, completely natural weed control. Safe 'N Simpleî 9-0-0 provides weed control and an excellent source of slow-release nitrogen, 9% nitrogen by weight, in an easy to spread crumble form. When spread at the recommended rate Safe 'N Simpleî 9-0-0 provides 4 lbs. of nitrogen/ 1,000 square feet. Nitrogen is released as microorganisms break down in the soil. Available in 25 & 50 lb. bags. * Size and Price: 25 lbs - $29.9950 lbs - $47.99 * Quantity: 1 Safe 'N Simpleî Farm, Field & Pasture Food Safe 'N Simpleî Farm, Field & Pasture Food 5-1-5 is an all-purpose natural fertilizer containing soybean and alfalfa meals, nutrient rich organic plant material that will enhance the soil, increase soil biological activity, and provide needed nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for healthy lush plant growth. Recycling plant material back into the soil is natureâÂÂs way of replenishing nutrients and rebuilding soils. Conventional synthetic fertilizers supply plant nutrients. Safe 'N Simpleî 5-1-5 provides plant nutrition and promotes a healthy soil ecosystem. Farm, Field & Pasture Food nutrients are derived from soybean meal, alfalfa meal, fish meal, and sulfate of potash-magnesia. * Size and Price: 50 lbs - $26.99 * Quantity: 1 Safe 'N Simpleî Lawn Food 6��"2��"4 Safe 'N Simpleî Lawn Food is a natural based fertilizer containing soybean, alfalfa, and fish meals, organic materials that enhance the soil, increase soil biological activity, and provide needed nutrients for a thick healthy green lawn. Recycling plant material back into the soil is nature's way of replenishing nutrients and rebuilding soils in natural habitats. Conventional synthetic fertilizers supply plant nutrients. Safe 'N Simpleî 6-2-4 provides plant nutrition and promotes a healthy soil ecosystem. The key to long term lawn success is a healthy soil environment. Available in 50lb. bags * Size and Price: 50 lbs - $26.99 ...

Everyone has their own preferences but for a permanent or long term container planting, using a homemade or commercially prepared container potting mix is preferred over adding any type of garden soil. I would also be cautious about adding too much in the way of compost. Because of the unique requirements of container culture, a very fast draining soil is necessary. Too much reliance on organics or compost that will continue to decompose will reduce pore space and increase compaction, resulting in poor drainage and lack of oxygen. This is why the heavy garden soil is not recommended and it is substituted with peat, coir or bark fines which decompose very slowly. And the addition of non-organics like perlite, pumice or turface (high fired clay particles) will maintain porosity and good drainage. The Container Gardening forum discusses these issues at length and there are all sorts of excellent potting soil recipes to be found there. Adding gravel, rocks, pot shards, etc. at the bottom does NOT improve drainage - this is a long held container gardening myth. Providing layers that are of different structure/texture will actually impede drainage and result in the bottom of the true soil level to become overly saturated, which can lead to root rots and fungal problems. It all involves a rather techincal bunch of stuff including soil intereface issues and perched water tables but it is worth investigating if you are intending long term container plantings. Providing adequate drainage holes IS necessary and raising the base of the container off the ground as mentioned will also improve drainage, not to mention extend the life of any wooden container. Because container plantings need such frequent irrigation (leading to problems outlined above if drainage is not adequate), nutrients are rapidly leached out and need to be replaced on a routine basis. Regular fertilizing during the growing season with the product of your choice is recommended. Here is a link that might be useful: water movement in container soils

For the cat's eye I would do a backstitch. For the butterfly antennae I would use a stem stitch because it has more depth. I would do a few samples to see the effect and practice the stitch at the same time. Stitchguide is a wonderful reference site. Here is a link that might be useful: Stitchguide