We recently bought a house that had previously had a 15" under counter ice maker in the island. Ice maker was removed by previous owners due to leaks. We didn't want another ice maker so we filled the space with a 15" U-Line Fridge. It has worked out great. We keep the following drinks in it: individual water bottles, larger Perrier bottles, Juices and milk boxes. It has made a big difference in giving us more room in our main fridge. It does make a bit more noise than the large fridge, but I have very good/sensitive hearing!

This isn't a Logan or UMass test, so my read is very limited here. >>They have an establishment recommendation, should i follow that? No, because it's completely incorrect. They're recommending 1.5 pounds each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium through the first 5" or so of soil profile. Nitrogen doesn't need to be incorporated (nor is nitrogen necessary at seeding time), you're lower on phosphorus than that, and you don't need potassium. >>it recommends working the fertilizer into the top 4-6" of soil, guessing most people do this with a tiller/discs. How do you guys to it? We never recommend tilling at all, given that it destroys the soil structure and results in an incredibly lumpy soil for the rest of time. Anyway: Organic matter: Not tested. Exchange capacity: Not tested. This presents some challenges in determining what and when to add things. I winged it a bit and stayed on the conservative side. Sulfur, sodium, most minor elements: Not tested. pH 4.8: Always the symptom, never the disease, but in this case the symptom is equivalent to a temperature of 102°. Sub-5 pH is always a bad thing. Phosphorus 5: Low, but I'm not familiar enough with this test to determine how low. Target looks like 30, I'm shooting for 20 to give a safety margin, and four apps of starter won't get you there (this is a slow process). We use common, off the shelf starter fertilizer to fix this, and you can simply purchase the cheapest. Potassium 174: By the chart, this is right where it should be. No potassium required or desired. Calcium 297: Very low. Because you don't need magnesium, we're going to use calcitic lime to avoid damaging the soil. Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime are acceptable for this task. Most cheap lime is not acceptable, won't impact your pH enough, will take ages to work in, and will overdo the magnesium levels. Recommendations below. Magnesium 94: By the chart, none required or desired. Magnesium is right where it should be. Zinc, Manganese 2, 99: This has to be the absolute strangest choice on testing minor elements from any lab I've ever seen. Neither is particularly demanded by grass, nor is grass particularly sensitive to an overage. Although I'd tend to call that manganese level anything but sufficient ("sky high" is more like it), we'll run with it. Recommendations: (These assume you plant a warm season grass early next summer) September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 9 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. April 1, 2016: Apply 9 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. May 1, 2016: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. Planting Time: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. This can go down with the grass seed if you wish, or beforehand.

Our current house has a very small footprint for a fridge so I have a 21cuft French door because a whole-width door would block the entire hallway. The builders of the house, which was built in 1982 and 20 miles from a grocery store, shoulda known better than to have a tiny space that couldn't be modified grrr. So in the laundry I have a very old upright freezer (Gibson) for mostly meats, a small beverage fridge in the dining room, and a dorm/beer fridge in the garage (used to be in my tack room for horse meds). If there was a way to freeze lettuce, I would've done it to avoid having to go to town so often (and sorry, I have a black thumb so when I tried growing lettuce inside, several types of lettuce died in vain). My "new" house, built in 1970 so even older, has a HUGE space for a fridge and is only a mile away from the nearest grocery store, go figure. But it has half the total sqft for the house so I now have only one do-it-all fridge. A 36" 28cuft French door for only 2 people was my knee-jerk "I NEED a big fridge" reaction to the formerly miserly fridge space. It has a separate drawer for beverages, a door-in-door so DH can quickly get at his stuff that otherwise he pokes around forever to get out, and outside water and ice dispenser since it's Phoenix. The fridge shelves fold so I can stand up an open bottle of wine; I tried some caps that are supposed to allow laying down but I don't think they're meant to work with wine sloshing back and forth as the drawer is opened DAMHIK! Well, I don't know how many will read this far but thanks for letting me vent to other TKO's who understand these things lol!

Two more with an island but nothing along the bottom wall (the only way an island could possibly work). The island is only 30" deep, which may be enough. It does give you around 9" from the sink (not faucet) and the back counter edge. You can't go any deeper b/c you need the aisle width on the working side of the island and at least 36" for the walkway b/w the island and bottom wall. I would have preferred another 3" on the work aisle, but 45" is probably doable. The advantage of this layout is that it gives you another prep area to the left of the range for when someone is helping you in the Kitchen (your kids, for example, when they start learning to cook). I'll be honest, while I'm not a big fan of cleanup zones in the island, the additional prep zone is very appealing b/c of the ages of your children (at the age to start helping out). In your favor is that the island is far from the "Living Room" and doesn't face an entry where dirty dishes might be an issue/on display. .